• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Water Pump Seeping

kjclark7

kjclark7

Husqvarna
AA Class
i've got a slight seep from the water pump seep hole and i was thinking i would replace the gasket/o-ring that is behind it to see if that would solve. so a few questions, is it a gasket or o-ring and do i have to drain the whole system to take the water pump off?
 
Oil or coolant? The bolts that hold the water pump on thread all the way into the head and will seep oil passed the threads, if you take one out at a time and use a small amount of hi-temp silicone on the threads it will stop the oil seeping. I've also had the same issue on the bolts that hold the overflow bottle on. But to answer your question, it is an O-ring on the water pump cover, but my guess would be you have an oil leak.
 
i already did the red high temp silicone on the 3 bolts holding it on but it is still seeping from the seep hole on the bottom. thats why i was thinking it was a o-ring issue.
 
besides getting seepage from the bottom of the water pump, i am also getting some from the valve cover around the round areas. i already took the cover off and cleaned the gasket but its still seeping. is that a common thing also? should i rtv silicone that too?
 
kjclark7 said:
besides getting seepage from the bottom of the water pump, i am also getting some from the valve cover around the round areas. i already took the cover off and cleaned the gasket but its still seeping. is that a common thing also? should i rtv silicone that too?
Click to expand...
My valve cover gasket had RTV on the round areas from the factory. I have since cleaned it off and don't use anything on it. So far, no leaks.
 
Mine weeps oil around the valve cover gasket, I just live with it, not enough leaks out between oil changes to amount to enough to worry about. A couple of drops with dust stuck to it seems like more oil than it is. These are not perfectly sealed motors by any means.
 
o ring 8000-27122, o ring 8000-40007, seal 8000-53339
it has 2 o rings and a seal,Do your self a favor and replace the
stock water pump with a Hi flo pump 8000-h2449 while your
are in there.
 
kjclark7 said:
besides getting seepage from the bottom of the water pump, i am also getting some from the valve cover around the round areas. i already took the cover off and cleaned the gasket but its still seeping. is that a common thing also? should i rtv silicone that too?
Click to expand...

Cleaning the gasket and carfully removing the OEM sealant in the grooves that has hardened will seal better than with it there- Best would be to then replace/ put a little Anerobic Gasket Sealent on the half moons (round areas) of the gasket after cleaning both surfaces well (last time I did it- I used a very light coat on the whole gasket- unnoticable ammount accept it was tacky). It may not be mentioned in the Husky manual but I have seen it mentioned in other manuals for bikes with simular gaskets to use a little (very thin coat spread with finger). I had a small leak before taking the cover off for the first time and did this and havne'th had a leak since .
http://www.permatex.com/products/Au...akers/Permatex_Anaerobic_Flange_Sealant_a.htm

I haven't had to do anything with my husky's WP at this point (although I did convert to the HF-WP as advised)- but changed them out on Ktms and for those you also use a light coating of the above sealant on the orings upon instal. (I don't know if it would be advisable with the Husky WP- once appart the answer may appear more obvious) The Ktm Rfs had alot of professional/well written instructions established in maintenence routines such as this- it would be good to have that established here as well. We are getting there I think- good info so far. KjClark maybe you could document your problems and procedure as you go (write it for those completly unfamiliar)
 
The only things I received with the hi flow pump was the rotor and the cover. You'll have to get the other stuff separately.
 
Just noticed tonight (leaving tomorrow for 4 days of riding) that I have small seep of water from weep hole. Thinking I should be all right and address it when I get back. Keep your fingers crossed for me!
 
so is there a step by step how to section/video on changing out the water pump? how about that inner seal?
 
kjclark7 said:
thanks. nice write up.

as for the seal being replaced, is that right behind the impeller and if so, is it an easy out or is there a trick to it?
Click to expand...

Here's a trick I learned too late. You will most likely have to release the tension on the cam chain tensioner, because you'll need to remove the water pump housing and it supports the water pump shaft bearing, and to reassemble all this stuff, the tension on the cam chain has to be loose. But if the cam chain is loose and you take the shaft out, you will lose your cam timing. So....get the bike to TDC and hook a bungee cord to the cam chain sprocket and take it straight up and tie it off, to pull the cam chain sprocket tight against the cam sprockets, thus maintaining your cam timing. Disregard the green arrows in the pic.

HuskyWPcamTimingPreserved.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top