TE630 clutch, loses its smoothness and becomes abrupt in tough terrain...

[motranqui]

Yes, that is what you need to change

 

[Rotax_655]

Yes, that is what you need to change

Because, according to you, these pile clutch pumps break so easily

 

[motranqui]

Because, according to you, these pile clutch pumps break so easily

I guess your mean WHY, accoding to you, ....? Sorry, I suppose poor Magura quality control

OK, I've started to disasemble the clutch

I took this measure and according to the manual is out of limits (In my bike goes from 0,7 to 0,9 mm depending on the slot I measure)

BTW, according to my knowledge, there are 3 pages with mistakes. Please, correct me if I'm not right...

 

[MATPOC]

Jerkiness can be caused by motor oil breaking down or clutch plate chatter, if you are anywhere under 1mm gap it's not the issue.
check the bearing under the basket, basically wiggle everything once plates are removed, side-to side play will cause problems, warped steel or friction disks.

Still I think you should switch engine oil suppliers before chasing your tail.

 

[motranqui]

Regarding to thikness, The plates looks good and have 3mm thikness, so they are almost like new ones





checking for distortion using a feeler gauge over a flat surface (glass) I've found 0,15mm only in 3 ones



Springs are out of limits

 

[motranqui]

Jerkiness can be caused by motor oil breaking down or clutch plate chatter, if you are anywhere under 1mm gap it's not the issue.
check the bearing under the basket, basically wiggle everything once plates are removed, side-to side play will cause problems, warped steel or friction disks.

Still I think you should switch engine oil suppliers before chasing your tail.

Thank you, Marpoc

I also don't think that that can be the problem. I'm going keep disasembling the clutch because of the "cup washer thread". I have never checked those washers and I'm goin to use the opportunity to inspect every single piece

Regarding to the oil may be you're right. Supposedly the oil is good quality, but might be CASTROL has drop their quality... or the oil is a "Castrol cheap copy"... I hope you understand what I mean

 

[motranqui]

I stop here as I have not yet the tool to grab the hub and so I can not loosen the nut. I've heard about "impact wrench" to loosen it and it seems fine. But when you have to reassembly the nut and you have to torke it to 62Nm, how do you manage to make it without the special tool?



Here a pic of the clutch housing where you can see some notches. You can feel them if you pass your finger through them

 

[Spice Weasel]

This is the tool i use - ebay.co.ukUNIVERSAL-MOTORCYCLE-MOTORBIKE-CLUTCH-FLYWHEEL-PULLEY-HOLDER-HOLDING-TOOL
My clutch basket fingers are starting to look like that, but im not having problems yet. Just file the notches on the fingers smooth, put it back together, ride it and let it beat the shit out the basket and finish it off. Order a replacement basket and have it waiting to go in when you start experiencing problems again

 

[motranqui]

Thank you Spice W.
I friend of mine has had what I think is a superb idea: to weld (or screw) an steel arm to one or two clutch steel plates. This way I only have to order the steel plates that I use to make the tool instace of having to order de tool itself. Although the tool that you show is also a good idea at a cheap price (the original husqvarna tool cost 105€)

BTW, what is the meaning of "ride it and let it beat the shit out the basket and finish it off"? I don't get it at all


Please, easy and basic English for foreigners

 

[Spice Weasel]

Thank you Spice W.
I friend of mine has had what I think is a superb idea: to weld (or screw) an steel arm to one or two clutch steel plates. This way I only have to order the steel plates that I use to make the tool instace of having to order de tool itself. Although the tool that you show is also a good idea at a cheap price (the original husqvarna tool cost 105€)

I bought that tool because i was worried about damaging the clutch housing by using improvised tools and improper methods, it worked perfectly, is universal and a good price. I dont understand why you would want to sacrifice good plates to make a tool.

BTW, what is the meaning of "ride it and let it beat the shit out the basket and finish it off"? I don't get it at all


Please, easy and basic English for foreigners

I think my regional characteristic might be showing here, What i meant was-
The gap between the tabs on the friction plates and fingers on the basket will get bigger every time the notches are filed out. A bigger gap will allow more forceful impacts between the tabs and fingers, making the next set of notches wear in faster.
I believe the specs shown in your post #23 to be rubbish and would ignore them. I would file the notches from the fingers and re-assemble the clutch and ride the bike and use my own judgement on when i believe the noise and performance of the original clutch assembly were showing signs of it being worn out, and have a new clutch assembly waiting to go in, but until then i would "ride it and let it beat the shit out the basket and finish it off"

 

[motranqui]

Thank you, know is crear

The reason why I have sacrificed 2 plates is because I want to have the clutch open by this weekend. I don't know how long it would take to get the tool from ebay...

The work is finished althoug I must admit it has took me 3 hours...






BTW, the nut opens anti-clock wise like standard one or the other way around? I've tried 2 times to released it without succes...

 

[Spice Weasel]

BTW, the nut opens anti-clock wise like standard one or the other way around? I've tried 2 times to released it without succes...

The clutch spins anticlockwise, so the nut will be right hand thread.

 

[motranqui]

The clutch spins anticlockwise, so the nut will be right hand thread.

OK, so I'll have to push harder.

 

[motranqui]

OK, so finally I got removed it





The cup washers all look like new ones except one of them



BTW, as far as I know we have never comment about of those notches. Are them an issue?

 

[motranqui]

So, as a recapitulation, what do you think is causing the lackness of smooth the clutch?

-Basket finger grooves?
-Bad oil quality?
-Springs of the clutch cover are out of meassurement? (39mm to 41mm)
-Disc plates might be burnt althoug the keep their thickness? (3mm)

Any other ideas?

Thank you

 

[CJBROWN]

Clutch disks are pretty cheap - I would replace them and the springs. Seems to me Barnett has a set for them - cheap deal to address your clutch problem.
And source a set of spring cup washers and replace them.

The basket nut is easy to remove with an impact wrench - just hold the basket with a gloved hand and it pops right off. Same to tighten, just give it a couple of bumps - it has a bend-over washer to hold it anyway. I've done a few of them without issue, no special tools.

And replace the bronze bushing - if it gets worn your clutch can get wonky as well.

Castrol is probly fine - I prefer Amsoil, but you might also try Motorex or Shell Rotella T6. A 20-50 weight oil may also be of benefit. Just make sure it's jaso MA1 or 2 rated - or you'll grease your disks slick with the anti-friction additive compounds in regular automotive oil. This could have happened from the previous owner not using a jaso rated oil - more reason to replace the friction disks.

They are known for a little clutch drag making them hard to find neutral without blipping the throttle - does not happen with 20-50 Amsoil. This was also the same oil that was the only one that would work on the old GasGas bushed-trans to make them shift right. It's great stuff.

 

[Rotax_655]

for the engine oil I've been doing well for over 20 years with mobile 1 5w50 now called peak life.
an exceptional oil for me.
no problem with the clutch with this oil even though there is no MA1-2 written

 

[hhdwtmtw]

So, as a recapitulation, what do you think is causing the lackness of smooth the clutch?

-Basket finger grooves?
-Bad oil quality?
-Springs of the clutch cover are out of meassurement? (39mm to 41mm)
-Disc plates might be burnt althoug the keep their thickness? (3mm)

Any other ideas?

Thank you

I would say the cause are the grooves in the clutch basket. I'd replace it.

 

[motranqui]

Clutch disks are pretty cheap - I would replace them and the springs. Seems to me Barnett has a set for them - cheap deal to address your clutch problem.
And source a set of spring cup washers and replace them.

The basket nut is easy to remove with an impact wrench - just hold the basket with a gloved hand and it pops right off. Same to tighten, just give it a couple of bumps - it has a bend-over washer to hold it anyway. I've done a few of them without issue, no special tools.

And replace the bronze bushing - if it gets worn your clutch can get wonky as well.

Castrol is probly fine - I prefer Amsoil, but you might also try Motorex or Shell Rotella T6. A 20-50 weight oil may also be of benefit. Just make sure it's jaso MA1 or 2 rated - or you'll grease your disks slick with the anti-friction additive compounds in regular automotive oil. This could have happened from the previous owner not using a jaso rated oil - more reason to replace the friction disks.

They are known for a little clutch drag making them hard to find neutral without blipping the throttle - does not happen with 20-50 Amsoil. This was also the same oil that was the only one that would work on the old GasGas bushed-trans to make them shift right. It's great stuff.

Clutch disks are pretty cheap... 136 € are not so cheap



Thank you, but now I don't need a impact wrench since I made my own tool for graving the basket, please, look above

The bronze bushing is replaced

 

[MATPOC]

lack of smoothness = chatter

I had that problem on my dry clutch Ducati, it is common to those bikes, also common fix was to spray disks with silicone, which changes it's friction range and cures the problem. I cured it by cleaning up plates and slightly sanding the steel disks and fiber plates (open clutch gets dirty, clutch get glazed and rusty)

There are two solutions:
1. you can throw money at it and replace everything, plates, basket, springs, Basket is about $500 USD (I know because mine is broken, also there are 2 different types for '06)
Replacing everything will cure the problem, but you are throwing away parts that are useable
2. you can mask the symptoms, my guess that problem happens when your oil gets hot and friction characteristics change enough to cause plates to "bite" and chatter. My solution would be to CHANGE OIL brand, different oils will have different additives, friction modifiers, I use Motul 300V in many bikes, other Mobil1, 610 gets Motorex 10W60 because it's what they recommended, but I may try different oil in the future.
often decide if it's good or not for this particular bike based on clutch feel since it's usually only noticeable difference you gonna see from one oil brand to another.

Clutch spring height being 41-39mm still in range, if anything it provides slightly less clamping force, should not be causing chatter problem unless your clutch starts slipping on full power. Going back to Ducati, some used to remove 2 out of 6 springs to get lighter clutch feel, it worked on 748 if you have stock motor and good plates, also not racing it (most people now collect them and ride on Sunday)