• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE630 clutch, loses its smoothness and becomes abrupt in tough terrain...

Matpoc, yes, the problem goes worse when oil gets hot, that's why I'm very suspicious than the last 4 liters tins Castrol sintetic 10W50 that I bought is not the same quality as it used to be... I don't know why :thinking:

So I'll order Motorex 10W60 rather than 10W50. I chose motorext because I can order it at the same time I order the spare parts (to the same dealer)

So, step by step may be I should try (from cheaper and easy solution to a expensive and complicated one)

1.- Change oil brand. If it doesn't work...
2.- File basket's grooves. If it doesn't work...
3.- Change disc plates and springs. If it doesn't work...
4.- Put the bike into a garbage can :lol:
 
the advice I can give you is not to turn on the cold motion with the pull clutch.
I excluded the safety switch that does not allow the start if the clutch is not pulled .....
in the picture I explain better
 

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Hi, Rotax

95% I start the bike in neutral so I don't need to pull the cluth lever. Only in special conditions (tough terrain, when leaving the bike in neutral is difficult or even dangerous)

Thank you for your advice anyway :thumbsup:
 
Filing basket grooves is not bad idea, I would not try to make them totally flat, just radius the high spot edges, it will prevent plates from hanging up on the edge.
If you decide to follow #4 let me know which garbage can, I will be there to collect it ;)
 
Just noticed you in Madrid, long trip to collect the junk :)
Stay Safe! News says you have fires on one side and protests on the other.
 
motranqui said:
Hi, Rotax

95% I start the bike in neutral so I don't need to pull the cluth lever. Only in special conditions (tough terrain, when leaving the bike in neutral is difficult or even dangerous)

Thank you for your advice anyway :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Unfortunately my and probably those sold in Italy for safety issues do not start unless you pull the clutch even if the engine is in the crowd.
 
They all have a clutch safety switch for starting. If the bike is in neutral anyway it's a non-issue.

Are you sure it's clutch chatter and not chain-drive chatter? If you lug this motor in rough terrain they do that.
 
Some call it the 'chug'. If you try to ride or accelerate up a rocky hill at low revs you'll get a lot of chattering, clutch and chain chatter, action from the slipper clutch. Tighter slipper springs and/or thicker spring cup washers will eliminate some of this, but it's doing what it's supposed to do.

I'm just throwing this out there on the thought that perhaps what you're experiencing is normal, or due to trying to baby the bike along. This is one of those 'ride it like you stole it' bikes - so run the piss out of it and see what it does. [shrug]
 
According to the mechanic and without a doubt -he says- what I'm experiencieng is due to the grooves in the housing clutch. So he suggested me to file them.

But now -as I explain in the thread "help me, debris... " the clutch housing is broken (and also the spring cover plate) so I have to buy a new one (both pieces and the inner washers, I guess round about 400€), although still I'm waiting to the dealer for springs cover plate price, as well as to get me the suitable rivets...
 
motranqui said:
According to the mechanic and without a doubt -he says- what I'm experiencieng is due to the grooves in the housing clutch. So he suggested me to file them.

But now -as I explain in the thread "help me, debris... " the clutch housing is broken (and also the spring cover plate) so I have to buy a new one (both pieces and the inner washers, I guess round about 400€), although still I'm waiting to the dealer for springs cover plate price, as well as to get me the suitable rivets...
Click to expand...

I have explained that the aluminium of your clutch housing could be welded
 
Spice Weasel said:
I have explained that the aluminium of your clutch housing could be welded
Click to expand...

Yes, I know and I apreciatte your advice. But neither the mechanic nor me trust in a welded clutch housing. First of all I have to find a very expert aluminium welder, as the area he has to weld is not an easy one. Please, look the pic, where you can see that the broken area is bigger that I thought.

IMG_3491 (1024x768).jpg

Second the holes for the rivets now are wider that before to 1mm (please, look the pics)

IMG_3493 (1024x768).jpg

IMG_3496 (1024x768).jpg

And so, I wouldn't be relaxed at all knowing that this welded piece inside the engine is spining at big speed...
 
motranqui said:
Yes, I know and I apreciatte your advice. But neither the mechanic nor me trust in a welded clutch housing. First of all I have to find a very expert aluminium welder, as the area he has to weld is not an easy one. Please, look the pic, where you can see that the broken area is bigger that I thought.
Second the holes for the rivets now are wider that before to 1mm (please, look the pics)
And so, I wouldn't be relaxed at all knowing that this welded piece inside the engine is spining at big speed...
Click to expand...


What has happened with your clutch is very disappointing, after filing the notches you might have got 10000 more km's. The oversized holes have killed it.
How well the crack would weld would have depended on the quality of the cast aluminium, if was decent quality i would have been confident with the strength of welding.
 

BTW, Rotax, As you come from Italy, is there a way to contact with SWM spare parts dealer? This way we could compare spare prices with the ones that now sell KTM group for the "red-Italian Huskys". Is a fact that since KTM sell Huskys spare parts, they have increased the price quite a lot (round about 20%)

330€ (taxes included) for the clutch basket is a lot

Thank you
 
Rotax_655 said:
320 in spain?

http://www.endurorecambios.com/recambio-original-husqvarna/12464-800084424-campana-embrague.html
Click to expand...

Sure!, this is the dealer to whom I buy the spare parts in Spain. As you can see, 320€. He is a good guy and he is not guilty of the high prices, of course.

Anyway I'm going to order the spare parts to him. as soon as I have an answer about the rivets. What concerns to me more are the rivets, I'm still waiting for an answer to the question, Can you get the correct ones? Look the pic: the ones he sent me are the above ones; the right ones are the bellow ones...

IMG_3499 (1024x1024).jpg
 
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