• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE511 PCV + Auto tune, still stalling off idle.

H

huskylove

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Well,


The auto tune is FANTASTIC from 50% throttle from 3000rpm +. Does exactly as intended and the bike feels better than ever.


With the pcv and the zip ty map, I was idling with a AF ratio of about 16.5-1

So I let auto tune adjust it and got it to 13.8 which is good.

My question is, is the inherent stalling with these bikes a lean or rich problem? It will idle all day, starts great, but when I go to take off from a stop light as SOON as I touch the throttle it cough and dies.


So in the 2,5,10% at 1750-3000 should I just make it richer to help?

Should I let the auto tune fix these areas?


It did not stall last couple rides before the auto tune.

I previously cured it by raising the idle to around 1950 with the air screw. Stopped stalling. But as I said it was at an AF of about 16.5-1.

Soon as auto tune added fuel to get the idle AF right, I had issues. Why would a proper AF ratio at idle cause this?


I think when I do some work to it next week, I will send zip ty my ecu to get map #3 installed. Then I will clear the PC V entirely just run the zip ty ignition part of the map, then let auto tune only correct from 3000rpm and 30% throttle up?

There has to be a flaw in the factory ecu that is causing this.



Any advice will be useful. The air screw at factory position exasperates the issue. Turning out the air screw helps, but then it runs lean, so adding fuel is necessary. Then it is stall city.
 
Try the tps mod as well the map3 upgrade. My stalling issues went away completely. I'm just wondering how long it takes auto tune to get fine tuned so that my trim maps no longer show +/-20 in the tables?
 
You are accepting the trims right? It can only change 20 a time.


I copied the idle setting auto tune set. Pulled the air screw another half turn. Then manually entered the idle fuel amount from 1750 to 2100 over into 0, 2, 5, and 10 throttle. So it will run rich just off idle. Then I am now letting auto tune adjust only 10 percent from 3000rpm up.


so far no stalling. There is a accel pump feature that may also be the solution. Now it idles at 13.8-14.0 afr when I hit the throttle it drops to 12 but doesnt stall. It takes about 4 10-20% fast throttle "braps" before it coughs and dies.
 
My problem is just when you touch the throttle it coughs and dies. Consistenly. That is what I mean by stalling.
 
Ditto - what he said.

I held off on any "solution" until I could get a real test on map set 3 - ALL of my issues vanished. I have not had a single flame out since I remapped. In fact, I cannot really think of anything that I would like to improve. It is that good.

I would advise to get your dealer (or Zipty) to flash set 3 and then take everything else back to OEM and see what you have. Also reset the TPS (I apparently could not do that myslef correctly - I blame it on a lack of a key). I think you will find your issue gone.

If its fixed, then you can decide to keep the PCV and tinker more or sell it.
 
P
huskylove said:
You are accepting the trims right? It can only change 20 a time.


I copied the idle setting auto tune set. Pulled the air screw another half turn. Then manually entered the idle fuel amount from 1750 to 2100 over into 0, 2, 5, and 10 throttle. So it will run rich just off idle. Then I am now letting auto tune adjust only 10 percent from 3000rpm up.


so far no stalling. There is a accel pump feature that may also be the solution. Now it idles at 13.8-14.0 afr when I hit the throttle it drops to 12 but doesnt stall. It takes about 4 10-20% fast throttle "braps" before it coughs and dies.
Click to expand...
Yes I accept the trims after each ride. So how many rides had it taken you guys before the trim values drop to +\- 5 in the cells?
 
I am going to do a few things to the bike here in a few weeks. Change wheels, send suspension out, etc. SO I plan on getting map 3 installed at that down time.

TPS appears to be reset properly because the power commander shows 0 as 0 and 100% as 100%....and it sweeps correctly. I would think this is all that needs to be done.

I am actually not accepting the trim yet as I only have a few test rides. I want to see exactly what it is doing, SO far I have not had more than adding 10 fuel at 80% throttle around 6000rpm. That is the largest change so far from the nick burson map.

I need more riding time. I think map #3 and then use the auto tune to make everything a little bit better, is the ticket.

I also keep hearing hints about removing the redundant butterfly in the throttle body. I think it is there to smooth power delivery or help act as a choke when cold. I am going to play with that and see if it makes a difference. If the TC models can do without it I do not see why the TE cant. I would just remove the butterfly and leave the shaft there and let it do its thing. That way it does not do anything weird with the computer.


I should also add that my airbox is vented MORE than the usually TC airbox lid. So that may be exasperating my issues.

As the bike gets hot, it will start sucking hot air from the radiators that saturates the airbox. Which could be causing preignition when the throttle is just opened due to a lean condition. My enriching the map + raising the idle may be helping to cure it, but this could also be a root cause.




Also my FMF does not have a quiet insert so it is running pretty open.

My exhaust header has been fully header wrapped which could also help the pipe flow well.

My next exhaust mod will be cutting the stock header.

The last 4mm of the pipe that slips INTO the slip on, has a tiny choke point. To help it slip in better. It has been bothering me that I did not chop that choke point off with the band saw when I had the damn thing out to weld the wideband sensor bung in!



for most people, stock airbox, fmf slip on with quiet insert, and probably the map 3 would make the bike run perfect.

I am trying to get as much power as I can with simple modifications because I need to pull much higher gearing with my supermoto wheels. Likely running 15/40 or 15/44 depending on how it does.

It has SO MUCH more power than the race map II and fmf with quiet insert, that I could NEVER go back. This bike RIPS! WAY better. Much more power than my previous husky 450 with slip on and jetting.
 
My 13 te511 started stalling also at around 500 miles. my 13 te449 never had any issues. I'm running fmf without insert, map 3 and motard set up. I put all that on when it was brand new so not sure why it would just start stalling. I did tps reset and tried messing with the large screw on tps but it still would stall when it would idle and barely turn throttle. I checked the large brass screw on my 449 and checked its settings. The brass screw was 5 and a quarter turns out from being screwed all the way in. I set the 511 at the same when I had battery unhooked for tps reset and now it doesn't stall anymore. I even had my dealer reflash or reload map 3 back on ecu with no luck. I'm hoping it's fixed, no stalls for last 100 miles.
 
The air screw helps a ton. Mainly because of the idle rpm going up. Maybe it helps it also run a bit more lean? Hmmm.
 
Could be, the more I turned the screw out the more it sounded like it was sucking in more air and would stall worse. I didn't check to see what the screw was set on before I matched it to the 449 but it does run better now. 5 and a quarter turns seemed to help we'll see if it starts doing it again. And I don't know why it would start doing it at about 500 miles, I read somewhere here that with the bike loosening up it would get better. I wish I had bought 2 449's it's been flawless and has 700 miles on it.
 
Great idea. Side note, if the power commander says 0% and 100% correctly, this means the tps is adjusted correct?
 
Idle screw lets more air in to raise the idle, provides a richer condition and that is why it doesn't stall from idle. Quiet insert actually adds horsepower, up to 2 hp. @Huskylove - you have too lean condition. More air through the air box, means you need to introduce more fuel. The Autotune is very slow and will take quite a bit of time to adjust.
 
Tinken said:
Idle screw lets more air in to raise the idle, provides a richer condition and that is why it doesn't stall from idle. Quiet insert actually adds horsepower, up to 2 hp. @Huskylove - you have too lean condition. More air through the air box, means you need to introduce more fuel. The Autotune is very slow and will take quite a bit of time to adjust.
Click to expand...
Understood. But I did start with the zipty race map and then had it dynotuned. I expect that should expedite the process quite a bit. I probably have saved the trims 10 times thus far and still show 20 in some trim cells. The bike runs great so I'm not too concerned at this point.
 
hey tinken i matched the large brass screw with my 449, 5 and a quarter turns out from all the way in. did the tps battery disconnect hoping this fixes it. if i turn out the screw it does idle a little faster but the throttle starts to hang up like it wont un rev. i have fmf and map 3 on both bikes 449 runs great no issues but 511 started stalling at about 500 miles no issues til the 500 mile mark. no mods to airbox, so turning out the screw adds more air which i found makes it stall worse. more air less fuel too lean correct? turning in the screw should fatten it up right? will that solve it, or am i destined for a PCV.
 
Do you have the quiet insert in the silencer? Map shunt in? I don't think it has anything to do with your mileage. The air screw does not richen, it allows air to pass. The 511 requires more fuel and back pressure than the 449.
 
huskylove said:
Any advice will be useful. The air screw at factory position exasperates the issue. Turning out the air screw helps, but then it runs lean, so adding fuel is necessary. Then it is stall city.
Click to expand...
The brass air screw allows air to pass and does not lean, nor richen at all. It only allows air to pass.
 
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