TE511 PCV + Auto tune, still stalling off idle.

[Tinken]

Engine hours, many hours.

 

[Cosmokenney]

hey tinken i matched the large brass screw with my 449, 5 and a quarter turns out from all the way in. did the tps battery disconnect hoping this fixes it. if i turn out the screw it does idle a little faster but the throttle starts to hang up like it wont un rev. i have fmf and map 3 on both bikes 449 runs great no issues but 511 started stalling at about 500 miles no issues til the 500 mile mark. no mods to airbox, so turning out the screw adds more air which i found makes it stall worse. more air less fuel too lean correct? turning in the screw should fatten it up right? will that solve it, or am i destined for a PCV.

Isn't 5 1/4 turns about three turns too many? I think the advice is to go 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 and adjust +/- 1/8 turn from there??

 

[Teambowles]

Isn't 5 1/4 turns about three turns too many? I think the advice is to go 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 and adjust +/- 1/8 turn from there??

Mods are, fmf no insert, jumper in, map 3. 2 1/4 turns lowers the idle to much and stalls. If i open the screw anymore it sounds like its sucking way to much air and stalls. The bike has 570 miles on it, doing the battery disconnect and matching the 449 seemed to help but not eliminate the stalls. gonna do oil changes this weekend and ride it to see if its still doing it, weather permitting. I did the disconnect and screw adjustment about a week and a half ago and rode it after that with only a couple stalls (better than before). other than stalling it freakin rips.....thx

 

[Cosmokenney]

Mods are, fmf no insert, jumper in, map 3. 2 1/4 turns lowers the idle to much and stalls. If i open the screw anymore it sounds like its sucking way to much air and stalls. The bike has 570 miles on it, doing the battery disconnect and matching the 449 seemed to help but not eliminate the stalls. gonna do oil changes this weekend and ride it to see if its still doing it, weather permitting. I did the disconnect and screw adjustment about a week and a half ago and rode it after that with only a couple stalls (better than before). other than stalling it freakin rips.....thx

Clean and lightly oil your air filter. Make sure it isn't torn. And make sure its good and oiled where it makes contact with the airbox. Then maybe swap your ECUs to make sure you don't have a computer issue. (Tinken can he swap them?).

 

[Tinken]

(Tinken can he swap them?).

I believe so. Also, install Q-insert.

 

[Teambowles]

Clean and lightly oil your air filter. Make sure it isn't torn. And make sure its good and oiled where it makes contact with the airbox. Then maybe swap your ECUs to make sure you don't have a computer issue. (Tinken can he swap them?).

yes sir gonna check filter, change oil, adjust chain, put the insert in that came with the fmf pipe and turn screw in a quarter turn at a time and see if it helps...great idea switching ECU's didnt even think of that...Due to it being ridden on the street as a motard and only having 570 miles I havent even had air filter out of it yet LOL

 

[huskylove]

Wow, that is quite far out. I think I am in the 3.5 range out on the screw. I can tell you that when you allow more air to bypass it will run LEANER at idle. It directly affects the idle mixture. That said, my bike was not stalling at 16-1 afr at idle, but the header would glow red and it was clearly not optimal. I let auto tune set the idle afr. Which got it to about 13.8-14.0. The idle is 1950-2000rpm right now.

So far seems okay. I did add the same amount of fuel to correct idle afr (about 8 at 1750 and 5 at 2000, 3 at 2200) and copied that to the map to the right (0, 5, 10) then told auto tune to sort out from 20% on up.

SO, I have made it run more rich at very slight throttle openings at low rpm just off idle. Allowed more air to bypass. Set proper idle AFR. So far no problems but have not had many miles on it.

Tinken, by quiet insert on the fmf do you mean the normal spark arrestor end cap? Or do you mean the quiet powercore 4 insert, or do you mean the fmf q4 insert (most restrictive) which adds the most power? I will try whichever you recommend. It is deceiving with the noise increase.

Soon as my powercore (most restrictive) insert fell out on a ride it had a TON more upper rpm balls.

Clearly lost some on the low end (likely due to improper tune). It really really rips. Like, compared to stock I cannot believe it is the same bike. It has made a insane difference! I actually hit the rev limiter sometimes if I do not shift soon enough. I did not know there was one!

 

[Tinken]

Tinken, by quiet insert on the fmf do you mean the normal spark arrestor end cap? Or do you mean the quiet powercore 4 insert, or do you mean the fmf q4 insert (most restrictive) which adds the most power? I will try whichever you recommend. It is deceiving with the noise increase.

https://www.denniskirk.com/fmf/powercore-4-quiet-core-insert.p435531.prd/435531.sku

So far seems okay. I did add the same amount of fuel to correct idle afr (about 8 at 1750 and 5 at 2000, 3 at 2200) and copied that to the map to the right (0, 5, 10) then told auto tune to sort out from 20% on up.

SO, I have made it run more rich at very slight throttle openings at low rpm just off idle. Allowed more air to bypass. Set proper idle AFR. So far no problems but have not had many miles on it.

I like this and is what I did as well. The Zipty Factory maps are created by Ty and do not have this, but when I created the Burson map, I added something similar.

I can tell you that when you allow more air to bypass it will run LEANER at idle. It directly affects the idle mixture.

This is incorrect. The air bypass has nothing to do with increasing/decreasing fuel or mixture ratios. It simply allows more air to pass which is seen by the air flow sensor and more fuel is added to compensate. If a lean condition is occurring, then the air flow sensor may not be picking up on the added air flow and adjusting fuel in the powercommander will alleviate the issue.

This is something that cannot be accomplished with the oem ecu. Because we are working with a set amount of fuel from the oem/flashed ecu, back pressure must be added in order to lower the flow through the engine and bring balance back to the air fuel ratio.

 

[Tinken]

When you talk about quite a while what do you mean engine hours? Mileage? What is a good reference?

AutoTune needs to run long enough to gather information to make adjustments (20 minutes to +10 hours). You need to ride the bike long enough to hit all of the areas you plan to ever ride the bike (rpm & throttle position). Once you have run the bike awhile, you should have gathered enough data to adjust your tune. It would be better to make multiple short rides, stopping to apply the AutoTune information; than it would be to make one long ride. Each AutoTune session should be built on the last session.

See more at: http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander/Support/powercommander_faqs.aspx

 

[huskylove]

thanks Tinken,


I am a bit confused, sorry for being fussy. The factory fuel setup in race map II does or does not use a MAP or airflow sensor?

I had assumed it was using closed input, where it follows the programmed map, and is too dumb to make any changes. Much like the standard power commander?

 

[Tinken]

It recognizes air flow and % of throttle, but will only run the O2 sensor in Map mode I. The powercommander piggy backs the oem ecu so the adjustment will still be there. Also, on your air fuel mixtures, you are running 13.8 to 14. Try dropping that down closer to 13.2 to 13.8.

 

[huskylove]

Okay, I had it to set 13.8-14.0 at idle and cruise (low throttle, and 13.2 above 20% throttle). Is that okay?

 

[Tinken]

Just try it. It's better to be a little on the fat side than the lean side.