te511 oil change from hell...any tips?

[Tinken]

No, Akro is quiet

 

[Daveb511]

That is why I sold it...that pipe is brutal and in my opinion is not so much better than stock to be worth it... IMHO.

 

[Tinken]

The FMF PC4 can be modified to be quieter. A baffle needs to be welded in the middle and Q-insert diameter reduced.

 

[huskylove]

I ordered another 1 1/8" q insert. It is doable with that insert.


I have to admit with the zip ty fuel and ignition map, open airbox, and loud fmf. This bike has a ton more top end! That will help a ton with the supermoto wheels and taller gearing.

 

[TomGlander]

I always thought this bike was kinda Ez to change the oil on. I like the side drain. Make a quick tinfoil dam for the oil to not flow on the frame and drain it. Flop the bike on its side and do the filter. I hardly even look at the screens any more as there is never anything on them.

- Do not drill the end cap, thats a good way to introduce shavings into the motor.

Have to totally agree. I don't see the problem. I changed mine today, it was super easy. All drains on the same side. Filters came out no problem. Just grabbed with a needle nose plier and pulled right now. Didn't change the primary oil filter yet, so can't speak to that one. But I'm replacing with a metal filter anyway.

Oil does spill over the frame, but so what. Just wipe it up. No worries.

Drain the oil first, then remove the filter cover and pull the filter. Since you're throwing it away, just tap a drywall screw into the end, turn the screw to grab the filter, and pull the thing out.

I filled with one quart. On the kickstand, the oil is right at the level of the filler hole. That's all she holds. One quart is enough oil to circulate and keep things cool. Things should get "hot" but what is "hot" as that's a subjective term unless you measure the temperature and compare it whatever "too hot" would be.

I've never seen my cooling fan come on. Maybe it did, but I didn't see it. Maybe it's broken.

Anyway, oil change is easy. I enjoy working on this bike and appreciate its finer points. A very nice machine.

 

[Tinken]

I filled with one quart. On the kickstand, the oil is right at the level of the filler hole. That's all she holds. One quart is enough oil to circulate and keep things cool. Things should get "hot" but what is "hot" as that's a subjective term unless you measure the temperature and compare it whatever "too hot" would be.

Max fill is actually 1150cc, many of us feel this is minimum fill. With the addition of my oil recirculation system, you can run a bit more which really cools and quiets the engine.

 

[huskylove]

It is a very nice bike. I wish there was a oil drain valve I could install.....as bad as that would be Im changing the oil a bunch lately.
I don't check the screens but once every 3 oil changes. (only have 3) also clean the scotts stainless filter every 2-3 (just cleaned and checked screens and didn't see anything) The drain bolt had some more sludge. I am hoping that quiets down as I ride it.

 

[James Patton]

I have a few thousand on mine. I seldom let it get to 300mi. Stainless
filter (scotts). I have the zip ty oil recirculation kit. So I lay out the allen
socket for the main drain, sockets for the 2 screens, a curved dental
pick, a 19mm for my oil fill 14 for drain back line, 12mm socket for
husky filter cover. never takes more than 15 or 20 min. The DRZ
takes me longer if I remove all the drain plugs. Just never overtighten
anything. The reason the bolts and threads are fragile is because
they are light!

 

[Cosmokenney]

I filled with one quart. On the kickstand, the oil is right at the level of the filler hole. That's all she holds.

If all you can put back in is 1 quart, I'd be willing to bet you aren't getting all the old oil out.

I've been leaning the bike to the side opposite the drain. Lean it as far over as you can and hold it there for 30 seconds, then lean it back on the same side as the drain (all this with the drain open). I usually get at least 150 ml or more out by doing this 3 or more times.

I don't know where that last little bit stays, but it won't drain by itself.

 

[Tinken]

There is also a drain plug on the bottom of the engine under the crankshaft. This drains the crankshaft area, but holds so little oil that it is not really necessary to drain. Tilting the engine back and forth does yield a bit more oil though.
Upon refill, I fill my crankcase with fresh oil and then charge the galleries for 30 seconds before adding the rest of my oil.

 

[TomGlander]

Thanks guys. I'll have to try the side to side action next time I do a change. I did see the bolt Tinken wrote of, drain plug under the crankshaft, when I was putting on the new skid plate from Up-tite. I wondered what that was for. Now I know. This is great. I've learned so much information from this group. Really great.

 

[turtlemoye]

charge the galleries for 3

I'm a little slow. Can you explain?

 

[Cosmokenney]

I'm a little slow. Can you explain?

I think he means to put in some oil. But then put the fill cap on, and run the motor briefly. Pull the cap, and put more in. I can usually get about 900 - 1000 ML in before it overflows. Then I put about 200 - 300 more after running the motor. I have the ZTR Oil System, so my goal is to get 1300 ML in there. I'm getting close to that amount. For reference that leaves just a tiny to no gap at the top of the sight glass with cold oil/bike and bike on side stand.

 

[TomGlander]

There are many oil passages inside the motor. These need to be filled, or "charged" I believe (??). This only occurs when the motor is running and pressure is built up by the oil pump, as I understand it. When you turn off the motor, the oil will slowly drain back into the case.

Not sure how long it takes for the oil to drain back into the case (doesn't seem like it would take much time at all), and unless these "galleries" are horizontal chambers that don't drain, I don't really get the whole charging thing, because it seems like the primary pool of oil is in the lower end case anyway, and from this pool the upper end is "fed."

Maybe more detail can be added so we understand better.

 

[Tinken]

You fill the galleries to make room for the additional fill.

Oil filter and galleries hold approximately 400cc of oil and in high rpm, could be storing as much as 600cc up out of the sump. If Husqvarna wants us to run 800cc of oil, that would leave 200cc in the sump. It's no wonder the engines were failing. With my ZTR Oil System, it is closer to 700cc in the sump.

 

[turtlemoye]

Ok, been doing that all along just didn't put 2 and 2 together. I know how to ride them but maintaining them is a new experience.

 

[Dangermouse449]

I'm with most of the others here, I reckon the oil change is easy too.

I had to watch a Youtube for my old WR450 as it didn't come with a manual & the oil tank is in the frame.
I do my oil every 5hrs, filter & screens every 10-20hrs, depending on conditions/riding style.
I use a paper element as I don't trust stainless to be fine enough.
I split the paper away from the filter after changing it & check for any metal, none so far =)
Hi-Flow Filtro is 1/2 the price of the BMW/Husky one ($15 au vs $32au) ** $32!!! I can buy an air-filter for a Cat loader we have at work for that!!**
I use 2 small flat-blade screwdrivers, one on each side & carefully pop the filter out with the edges of the end-cap.
Same as above for the screens, small pointy nose pliers, i just let it drain over the frame (with the sump guard off) & clean up with a spray of brake cleaner when I'm done.
I run 1150ml of Castol synthetic oil, if it is completely drained.
After starting & settling, the oil is 1/2 way up the level window (with the bike vertical) & rarely gets any in the air filter, unless I over-fill it.

Takes 15 mins, TOPS!

 

[9880sts]

Did the first oil change on the 511.

Little background I had a 06 450smr husky before and a few other high maintenance bikes. I had no problems with weekly/bi weekly oil changes on those bikes.


First how the f do you guys get the oil filter out of the hole? I tried everything! Eventually I punctured it with a sharpened bicycle spoke abd hooked it out. At one point the bike was laid on its side with me trying pliers, screw drivers, the works!

SO about 45 minutes later. I then try to pull the screens. One comes out with a spoke/hook end easy. The other has nothing to grab really. I dont recall how I eventually got it out.

Okay got everything back together put my new stainless oil filter in and go to tighten the screw cap, it goes on easy then realllyyy tight. So I pull it out and the aluminum threads are kind of messed up toward the end. What a fragile piece of junk! I filed the threads and used a bit of grease and just torqued through the "tight" spot. All has been good so far.

I must have set the cap down hard on the threads or something, but looking at them they have hardly enough material to bite. If you had a piece of sand in the case threads it would obliterate the aluminum cap!

Also another slight annoyance is how the oil drains right into the frame. Oil filter removal puts oil everywhere.

Anyways, not looking forward to a thousand more of these . Any tips on filter removal?

I think since its getting road miles I could drain and refill clean all the filters every other change. There was nothing on the screens and nothing noticeable in the filter when I sliced it. The drain plug magnet had a ton of sludge or fuzz. No large chunks (yay got a weds bike).

Now if the chain did not get sloppy loose every ride I would be happy. I have to tighten it every ride or two (45 miles round trip).

************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************
Just take a nice Snap ring Plier and grab the Oilfilter. 5 Sec and you got it. Aluminium Drainplugs or Filter plugs you always have to be careful....
I change every 400km. All Plugs are still in great shape. Proper Sockets make life easier too.