• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE310 Tank insert repair/stripped

Y

yamafreek

Husqvarna
A Class
I anti seized my tank bolts from day one. Well today I try to remove a bolt and f#%k there is a spinning insert. How do I fix this without throwing any more money at this bike... Also my inaugural ride with the new 12 hole injector and ecu was not the experience I thought Id have. Maybe some ibeat tuning can get it in check.
 
Doh! I recently did that when putting my fuel pump back in. I took a high speed drill to the bolt and spun it until it smoked a bit and the plastic around the insert got soft. The insert slid right out. Filled the hole with JB Weld and stuck the insert back in. Let it cure overnight and it worked like a charm.
 
Yeah this issue really has me bummed. Not only is nearly every single insert on the tank spun out (total joke) but there are 2 inserts in my sub frame that are spun (not cross threaded) too. I've had this bike 2 months and I'm afraid every time I turn a bolt.
 
The torque value for those bolts is only 4.4 ft.lbs if I'm not mistaken. That is a very light touch if not using an inch lbs. torque wrench and almost seems not tight enough to keep them in the inserts. I use a 1/4 inch drive(torque wrench set to 52 inch pounds) to tighten them.
 
I used anti seize and a small 1/4 drive ratchet and go easy on it. I noticed they were steel and not brass on the insert material. Maybe thats why? Any way I will try the drill trick latter.
 
see this topic from last year.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/spinning-insert-solution.4253/page-2

I have been using the ezlock inserts since last year and they are better then factory. Even better it is a 5 minute fix. Use drill to spin the old one out heating up the plastic and pulling it out. The hole left is the perfect size for these inserts. Once these inserts are in they are stronger then the factory. I have had zero problems since switching to these. I highly recommend them. I had tried the epoxy and jb weld routes in the past but they always ended up failing at some point.
 
I have had my plastics off countless times and luckily haven't had any problems (well I've had multiple problems but not this one!) with spinning inserts.

On my 2010 310 I believe my inserts are Brass so that may be why I have been so lucky? I dont have a torque wrench so I only use a 1/4" spinner handle on the plastics so i can never go harder than hand tight - I have never lost a panel or a bolt yet.

Also worth noting, i read in Trailzone Mag that even the 2011 TE 630 has the same issue.. Husky R&D needs to type "Logic" into google and find out about learing from mistakes..
 
duggoey said:
I have had my plastics off countless times and luckily haven't had any problems (well I've had multiple problems but not this one!) with spinning inserts.

On my 2010 310 I believe my inserts are Brass so that may be why I have been so lucky? I dont have a torque wrench so I only use a 1/4" spinner handle on the plastics so i can never go harder than hand tight - I have never lost a panel or a bolt yet.

Also worth noting, i read in Trailzone Mag that even the 2011 TE 630 has the same issue.. Husky R&D needs to type "Logic" into google and find out about learing from mistakes..
Click to expand...
Fingers crossed!
 
Fat tire flyer, get one bolt with a shoulder on it to use for installation. The shoulder will allow you to counter sink the insert just below the tank plastic and allow for a very snug fit of your plastics when done. Because I ended up using the imperial versions I went out and got black pan head bolts with a philips head on them (easy to find at my local hardware store) to hold all my plastics. As far as I am concerned this is the way they should have come from the factory. This worked so well for me I purposely removed the few remaining factory brass inserts and installed the E-Z lock inserts. I have never had a problem since!
 
benwiggin2 said:
Yeah this issue really has me bummed. Not only is nearly every single insert on the tank spun out (total joke) but there are 2 inserts in my sub frame that are spun (not cross threaded) too. I've had this bike 2 months and I'm afraid every time I turn a bolt.
Click to expand...

The inserts on the sub frame are an easy fix. They are a riv-nut or thread-sert that is put in with a pair of pliers that resembles a rivet tool. The Husky factory did not set them in hard enough. I bought an Astro Pneumatic riv-nut kit for less than $40 and simply threaded the tool back in and finished tightening the inserts. The pliers squish the insert out like a rivet and once they are tight like they are supposed to be they won't go anywhere no matter how tight you tighten the nut. If you do any fabricating that requires a threaded nut in a blind hole like tubing or mounting mirrors to a door this tool will serve you well, all you have to do is buy the different sized inserts. http://www.tooltopia.com/astro-pneu...&utm_term=AST1427&utm_campaign=googlebase_18u
 
@ lankydoug.... Can I ask what specific insert you used? I have some from M5's and tool from MSC Tool but the out 'flange' so to speak of isn't wide/strong enough enuf to pinch against the frame. They also seam to be a little to big to fit inside the excisting hole..... having to file the hole bigger to get it in!!! :mad:
 
Dave19 said:
@ lankydoug.... Can I ask what specific insert you used? I have some from M5's and tool from MSC Tool but the out 'flange' so to speak of isn't wide/strong enough enuf to pinch against the frame. They also seam to be a little to big to fit inside the excisting hole..... having to file the hole bigger to get it in!!! :mad:
Click to expand...
My inserts were spinning in the frame so I just used the the tool to expand the still in the frame factory inserts and it tightened them up nicely. The factory one looks like this http://www.tooltopia.com/marson-47411.aspx
 
Thank You Lankydoug... I'll get a hold of the tool next week and give it a try!!! You posted a link for 6m... Are your sub frame inserts 6m's. Mine are 5m's...... THANKS AGAIN****************************************
 
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