• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Te 630 Starting Issues

M

Mike.cl

Husqvarna
Hello there,


I own a te630 and I started to have issues with it...
the bike has only 4600km on the odo and It is always hard to start.... Bought it used couple of months ago.

today my bike didnt start at all...
I did connect the bike to a car to crank it, but the bike did not start....

When i crank it the neutral bliks once and the orange fuel indicator comes up for a second...
any Ideas???
 
it could be the coolant temperature sensor that does not work properly. if you've seen the neutral gear lights blink, there's something that's not working well. indispensable at this point to connect the motorbike to the Ibeat diagnosis system for vspire if there are anomalies
 
The problem was two overlapped things, The battery was low, and the bike started behaving like this after filling at a gas station.
The fuel rating in my country is not very reliable apparently.

The solution, New motobatt battery and octane booster additive.

the bike is hard to start as usual, but starts....!
Will check the spark plug and will install PU kit that came in the mail today!

Regards!
 
Mike.cl said:
The problem was two overlapped things, The battery was low, and the bike started behaving like this after filling at a gas station.
The fuel rating in my country is not very reliable apparently.

The solution, New motobatt battery and octane booster additive.

the bike is hard to start as usual, but starts....!
Will check the spark plug and will install PU kit that came in the mail today!

Regards!
Click to expand...



Update:

Went for a ride this morning and everything was allright rode the bike for 2 or 3 hours..
Now wanted to go for a ride and the bike was running "weak" (Low idle even with the lever pulled) and stalled easily.
After a very short ride, the bike stopped and I cloud not start it again.

Any ideas???
 
Rotax_655 said:
it could be the coolant temperature sensor that does not work properly. if you've seen the neutral gear lights blink, there's something that's not working well. indispensable at this point to connect the motorbike to the Ibeat diagnosis system for vspire if there are anomalies
Click to expand...


I did connect to iBeat and there is no fault********************************************************************************

Captura_1.png



I have logged the starting procedure!

Captura_2.png


Here is the exported data to excel

Captura_3.png



I have highlighted the cranking procedure, in yellow the values that changes the most.

Any ideas???
 
Check fuel pressure at injector,including pump,regulator,and filters. back flush may help if there is some debris in injector.
 
Rotax_655 said:
Do you always have old gas in the tank? try using safe quality gasoline. listen if the fuel pump does the classic buzz when you turn the key
Click to expand...



Im using fresh fuel from the gas station (I use additives to increase octane rating), the pump does buzz and the pump is runing.

This post over here:
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/630-sm-fuel-problem.26553/

Looks very much like the behavior I had today, and it started as a fueling problem and then turned out to be a voltage regulator problem.

Im looking forward to test the regulator....
 
Mike.cl said:
Im using fresh fuel from the gas station (I use additives to increase octane rating), the pump does buzz and the pump is runing.

This post over here:
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/630-sm-fuel-problem.26553/

Looks very much like the behavior I had today, and it started as a fueling problem and then turned out to be a voltage regulator problem.

Im looking forward to test the regulator....
Click to expand...
take a look at this message too. http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/should-i-change-the-voltage-regulator.83706/ check all electrical connections and especially the yellow wires under the tank
 
Turn the key/ignition on and press the red button. The fuel pump will do a quick cycle. then press the red button again and again (3 cycles- its a timer system only and does indicate that the system is fully charged) this helps start the bike. Also make sure the throttle is 100% off. Finally I use those newish fangled spark plugs cant recall the name.
 
Rotax_655 said:
take a look at this message too. http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/should-i-change-the-voltage-regulator.83706/ check all electrical connections and especially the yellow wires under the tank
Click to expand...


I did remove the new battery from the bike and charged it from the wall. the with the battery at 100% (13.1 V) I did put it back in the bike:

The bike had a very hard time cranking the engine it felt tiered but finally it started, (The load to the battery was quite high conections got HOT)
started logging information with ibeat and here is what I found out:

Captura_5.png


The bike run for a short period no longer than the prior LOG time but the temperature show very high 95°C.
and when I rev the engine to 3000 RPM to test charge, the voltage drops to 13.6V


Later during the test I reved the bike past the 5700 RPM and the voltage drops to 13.6V again:
Captura_6.png


According to the manual:
Captura_7.png


I have never connected a multimeter to the battery, I just use what iBeat reads.

What do you think Rectifier + Temp Sensor ??
 
Those iridium plugs give spark more easily,but they do broke more easily too,if fueling is too rich,or engine is not running correctly for some other reason. (for example old gas. Octane booster doesnt help in that situation,actually it makes it worse) fuel Pump is running,if your voltage stays adequate while starting,fine.Actually,i just checked your exel,voltage drops to 7v. That seems too low to me. Try another battery for start. Then proceed,more juice,it starts = bad battery or reg/rec and/or wires. No help=some other reason.
 
Thats the name Iridium. Found them to be brilliant on cold starts, anecdotally think they improve MPG.
I have not had any terminal failures with the iridiums over my 2 huskies ,SWM, Beta and Sherco over the past 8 years. Must say Gas in Oz is excellent quality however.
 
Mike.cl said:
I did remove the new battery from the bike and charged it from the wall. the with the battery at 100% (13.1 V) I did put it back in the bike:

The bike had a very hard time cranking the engine it felt tiered but finally it started, (The load to the battery was quite high conections got HOT)
started logging information with ibeat and here is what I found out:

Captura_5.png


The bike run for a short period no longer than the prior LOG time but the temperature show very high 95°C.
and when I rev the engine to 3000 RPM to test charge, the voltage drops to 13.6V


Later during the test I reved the bike past the 5700 RPM and the voltage drops to 13.6V again:
Captura_6.png


According to the manual:
Captura_7.png


I have never connected a multimeter to the battery, I just use what iBeat reads.

What do you think Rectifier + Temp Sensor ??
Click to expand...
in my opinion the charging voltage is correct. up to 14.5 volts maximum and 13 volts minimum you will have no problem charging the battery. what I see is that you have a faulty temperature sensor. if the sensor indicates 95 degrees celsius when the bike is just lit ....... it will be very difficult to start it because you will have a too lean carburation. A similar problem has already happened to me. It is a problem common to many TE 630. It can be solved by changing the temperature sensor. I have changed it more or less to your mileage
Look this

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/help-te-630-almost-impossible-to-start-when-cold.25363/
 
Rotax_655 said:
in my opinion the charging voltage is correct. up to 14.5 volts maximum and 13 volts minimum you will have no problem charging the battery. what I see is that you have a faulty temperature sensor. if the sensor indicates 95 degrees celsius when the bike is just lit ....... it will be very difficult to start it because you will have a too lean carburation. A similar problem has already hap
pened to me. It is a problem common to many TE 630. It can be solved by changing the temperature sensor. I have changed it more or less to your mileage
Look this

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/help-te-630-almost-impossible-to-start-when-cold.25363/
Click to expand...


I will get PN 8000H3649, does anyone know if this part is compatible with other motorcycle brands?? (want to get a repacement locally)
 
Mike.cl said:
I will get PN 8000H3649, does anyone know if this part is compatible with other motorcycle brands?? (want to get a repacement locally)
Click to expand...
before buying a new sensor check the values ​​in ohms at room temperature (about 20/22 degrees) you should read a value above 2000 ohms otherwise the sensor is faulty. I also tried alternatives to the original spare but I did not find them ....
 
Rotax_655 said:
before buying a new sensor check the values ​​in ohms at room temperature (about 20/22 degrees) you should read a value above 2000 ohms otherwise the sensor is faulty. I also tried alternatives to the original spare but I did not find them ....
Click to expand...


If I remove the sensor I will spill coolant all over the place, Right?
Yesterday I have inspected the cables under the tank and I found only this:
Captura_9.png

Captura_8.png



all other cables look very good, Stator cables, regulator cables....all good...no damages..

I will clean it and see If it improves ..
 
from the photo you put you can see a start of oxidation in the back of a connector. all the connectors must be opened checked and sprayed with deoxidizer for CRC666 contacts (or similar). the temperature sensor with ingenuity and a piece of suitable electrical wire you can verify without disassembling it. check well the connector of the stator that I put in the picture20180526_154507.jpg
 
Rotax_655 said:
before buying a new sensor check the values ​​in ohms at room temperature (about 20/22 degrees) you should read a value above 2000 ohms otherwise the sensor is faulty. I also tried alternatives to the original spare but I did not find them ....
Click to expand...


I managed to measure the temperature sensor and got 3300 Ohm at 17°C.

Captura_10.png


According to this post http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/help-te-630-almost-impossible-to-start-when-cold.25363/page-2
you are measuring 2400 Ohms at 20°C, can´t tell if is broken or not...

the sensor connector was very clean and dry.

I have noticed that the engine cranks easier without pulling the fast start lever, only clutch.
What does the lever exactly??
 
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