TE 511 > 2011 suspension settings?

[Cosmokenney]

I've had this bike for about 4 - 5 months. Not being very experience with dirt bikes, I wasn't sure how to tweak the suspension. But given my long experience with mountain bikes, I immediately realized that something was a bit off. The front end deflected off of every rock and the rear end would shoot up into the air over the smallest of bumps.

So found a thread here where someone with a 2011 posted his clickers and have been running with it that way. It was better, but I'm still wishing for more. And I've been looking over the manual to familiarize myself better with the settings. It is all very similar to MTB forks and shocks. But most recent MTB forks and shocks use mostly air for compression and rebound damping and oil for lubrication. And that's all there is. Compression and rebound. Not low speed/high speed and oil levels and what not. I also find it odd that there is no sag setting for the forks.

My skills are increasing quickly and I need to do something until I have the time/need to send my suspension to ZTR for revalve work. I'm not even sure I should send it at this point, because I'm pretty sure I wouldn't know what I want done differently -- I'm just too new to the sport.

It looks like the 2012 and up have a slightly modified suspension from the 2011. I think I'd like to get some recommendations from folks running the stock suspension that are about my height and weight. I'm 220 without gear. I carry tools and water. I ride almost exclusively off road, single track. Most of it twisty and smooth, with a mix of steep rocky/rooty uphills. Typical norcal redwoods. I feel like my rear end still feels over-sprung with very little rebound damping. Not sure where to start there do I adjust low speed or high speed damping? The forks don't deflect nearly as much, but I'm bottoming out the forks when I charge up a rocky uphill.

Suggestions?

 

[Tinken]

Shock needs to be lowered by 5mm.

 

[Cosmokenney]

Shock needs to be lowered by 5mm.

What does that do? Is that a spacer or spring thing? If you put a shorter spring on there, then it'll increase the spring rate right? And a lower shock will change the bike geometry, probably will slow down steering some?

 

[reveille]

Sounds like you need stiffer springs because you are riding mid stroke which will make roots and rocks feel harsh. Re-spring it for your weight and a re-valve along with it would be ideal.

 

[Tinken]

What does that do? Is that a spacer or spring thing? If you put a shorter spring on there, then it'll increase the spring rate right? And a lower shock will change the bike geometry, probably will slow down steering some?

Internal, doesn't effect the spring rate. We invented, developed and designed the change in 2010-2011 and had Husqvarna make it permanent in 2012. We are also experts at setting up these suspension systems for riders.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/ziptyracing-suspension-services.31318/

 

[Cosmokenney]

Internal, doesn't effect the spring rate. We invented, developed and designed the change in 2010-2011 and had Husqvarna make it permanent in 2012. We are also experts at setting up these suspension systems for riders.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/ziptyracing-suspension-services.31318/

As I stated in my original post, I'm aware of your service. I want to eek by with stock until I have a chance to ride some other bikes, and have a chance to play with the clickers a bit, before I send it to you for service. I want to know what I want done differently so I get it done right the first time. I'm sure Ty would rather appreciate not having the sole instruction be to make it less springy in the rear

 

[Motosportz]

I thought my 2011 TE511 was pretty good stock for DSing and light trail work. Faster stuff and it was too soft. I sent mine off to ZipTy and love it. You dont need to know what you want as they already do. Seriously give them an indication of what you like and dont like and they will make it better. They are a very knowledgeable shop and live and breath huskys and will make it much better. Sooner the better. Suspension is the first and best mod to a bike IMHO.

 

[Motosportz]

I'm sure Ty would rather appreciate not having the sole instruction be to make it less springy in the rear

If you give him your ability, weight and type of riding thats really all they need to get you sorted.

 

[gillies]

With all due respect to Zipty, Tinken, and Ty Davis, every thread these days seems like an ad campaign.

I've got the 2011 and can tell the 220# Op that the stock shock spring rate is way, way too soft for you. When you try to set the sag by cranking down the preload, you only make the ride harsher. Everything you describe about your current suspension feel is exactly what I experienced as well. The lack of rebound damping is more due to the excessive spring preload than a lack of damping. Also, clickers only fine tune a well valved shock or fork, so if the baseline is off, the clickers are of limited to no help.

Regardless of how you decide to tune your suspension - either yourself or by a shop - do yourself a favor and get Race Tech's Suspension Bible and read it. The knowledge gained will help you with your decisions immensely. As has already been said, the bike tracks very well when properly set up.

 

[Tinken]

With all due respect to Zipty, Tinken, and Ty Davis, every thread these days seems like an ad campaign.

I assure you that all of my posts are not advertisement. But it is that advertisement which allows me to be here and help today. Most of my products and services really help riders and have been discounted for riders on this forum. I know that my window of opportunity here at CafeHusky is limited and I will not always be here for you guys. I apologize for the annoyance.

 

[Radar]

With all due respect to Zipty, Tinken, and Ty Davis, every thread these days seems like an ad campaign.

I've got the 2011 and can tell the 220# Op that the stock shock spring rate is way, way too soft for you. When you try to set the sag by cranking down the preload, you only make the ride harsher. Everything you describe about your current suspension feel is exactly what I experienced as well. The lack of rebound damping is more due to the excessive spring preload than a lack of damping. Also, clickers only fine tune a well valved shock or fork, so if the baseline is off, the clickers are of limited to no help.

Regardless of how you decide to tune your suspension - either yourself or by a shop - do yourself a favor and get Race Tech's Suspension Bible and read it. The knowledge gained will help you with your decisions immensely. As has already been said, the bike tracks very well when properly set up.

Sounds like good advice but it also could be an add for Race Tech.

And I am Okay with that.

 

[Motosportz]

I tout ZipTy a lot as I believe they know more about huskys than most in the USA and the mods and products they have done for me are top notch. I know I post to much and spout about ZipTy and Bills BMP a lot but I just want people to feel comfortable working with these great shops. Yeah Tinken gets a little excited and posts XF and Earth batteries in a lot of threads but hey, he pays to be here, works hard to learn about the bikes, has great insight and offers many discounts to use here on this site. For that any overselling is 100% fine with me, they earned it IMHO. My 511 ia a far better bikes because of Tinken / ZipTys involvement here on this forum. This is an industry you work in because you live and breath bikes not because you want to get rich thats for sure. I am Tinken FB friend and his GF was just giving him crap for working on bikes 24/7. I appreciate the help and info. Not a lot of manufacturers, dealers or motorcycle company guys are brave enough to be on a forum and I feel we need to not push them out and loose valuable info. To have someone here that has literally seen and worked on hundreds of motors is very valuable. IMHO.

 

[Cosmokenney]

I tout ZipTy a lot as I believe they know more about huskys than most in the USA and the mods and products they have done for me are top notch. I know I post to much and spout about ZipTy and Bills BMP a lot but I just want people to feel comfortable working with these great shops. Yeah Tinken gets a little excited and posts XF and Earth batteries in a lot of threads but hey, he pays to be here, works hard to learn about the bikes, has great insight and offers many discounts to use here on this site. For that any overselling is 100% fine with me, they earned it IMHO. My 511 ia a far better bikes because of Tinken / ZipTys involvement here on this forum. This is an industry you work in because you live and breath bikes not because you want to get rich thats for sure. I am Tinken FB friend and his GF was just giving him crap for working on bikes 24/7. I appreciate the help and info. Not a lot of manufacturers, dealers or motorcycle company guys are brave enough to be on a forum and I feel we need to not push them out and loose valuable info. To have someone here that has literally seen and worked on hundreds of motors is very valuable. IMHO.

Agree. I almost set my TE on fire when it started puking oil, didn't fit right, flamed out and almost killed me, and pogo'd around the trials like tigger. I was seriously thinking about selling it at a big time loss after a month of ownership. But I've been to one site for a wealth of info for help with all of the above. I'm starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel. I now love the bike more than I hate it. So glad I didn't buy a pumpkin.

Problem is I'm broke and the oil system was a big hit to the wallet. I need to wait a few months before I start buying springs and stuff. So I just want to play with clickers for now.

 

[Tinken]

Set your static sag to 40mm and your race sag to between 110 and 120mm. Compression clickers on top of the forks, rebound on the bottom. Both sets some of each. Rear shock the same, rebound adds compression on that shock so as you go in, back off on the top.

 

[Cosmokenney]

Set your static sag to 40mm and your race sag to between 110 and 120mm. Compression clickers on top of the forks, rebound on the bottom. Both sets some of each. Rear shock the same, rebound adds compression on that shock so as you go in, back off on the top.

Wait... who's on first?

 

[Motosportz]

I added more sag and slid the forks up in the triples a few rides ago not for suspension or handling but for height and figured I'd resort the suspension from there. I'm really liking it. The rear of this bike has always worked good for me. Good stock, great post Zipy and maybe even better now. I have noticed these bikes like more shock rebound than most via my high tech seat bounce measurements. Always seems to dead to me but a few clicks out and it gets busy so a few clicks back in it goes and perfect. The lower bike is far EZer to handle in the tight stuff for me. Handling seems about the same. This bike never handled as good as my 125 and any x-light, but if you learn to ride her like she likes it is amazing the stuff you can do on it.

 

[LandofMotards]

I am Tinken FB friend and his GF was just giving him crap for working on bikes 24/7.

And him and Ty are dating .

I think it's cool to have a pro race teams experience not to mention involvement here. He may sound like a walking advertisement but he's one of the vendors that keeps this site going. Not to mention the advice often goes past anything they sell.

 

[James Patton]

Most sites, KLR.net, KTM forums, Yamaha ect., have vendors, most are helpful. There are a couple on KLRnet
that are extremely knowledgeable, they have also developed products, most are very good.
After almost a year with my TE511. I put zipty and Tinken as some of the best. I have purchased products and followed
Their advice often they hawk products, they don't sell, motosports also. These guys own and like these bikes
As much as we do. They have provided many many solutions form us that do not bring them money.
They have more experience and resources than any of us, let's not look a gift horse in the mouth.

 

[N4544D]

Set your static sag to 40mm and your race sag to between 110 and 120mm. Compression clickers on top of the forks, rebound on the bottom. Both sets some of each. Rear shock the same, rebound adds compression on that shock so as you go in, back off on the top.

For the TE bikes, isn't compression on the bottom of the fork and rebound on the top? I think the TC/TXC is opposite...


KAYABA fork adjustment (TC - TE - TXC)

- COMPRESSION (Fig. a) (TC - TXC: TOP ADJUSTER; TE: LOWER ADJUSTER) MY11 + MY12: TC-TXC= -11 clicks TE= -10 clicks To reset standard calibration, turn adjuster screw (A) clockwise to reach the fully closed position; then turn it back by the mentioned clicks. In order to obtain a smooth braking action, turn the adjuster counter clockwise. Vice versa to obtain a harder braking action. - REBOUND (Fig. b) (TC - TXC: LOWER ADJUSTER; TE: TOP ADJUSTER) MY11: TC-TXC= -10 clicks TE= -14 clicks MY12: TC-TXC= -14 clicks TE= -14 clicks To reset standard calibration, turn adjuster (C) clockwise to reach the fully closed position; then, turn it back by the mentioned clicks. In order to obtain a smooth braking action, turn the adjuster counter clockwise. Vice versa to obtain a harder braking action. - BLEEDING (Fig. a/b) (to carry out after each competition, or monthly).
Set the motorcycle on a central stand, release the fork fully extended and loosen the bleed valve (D). Once this operation is over, tighten the valve.

 

[Motosportz]

Yes, TE have open chamber forks and TXC/TC's have the twin chamber forks and the adjusters are opposite.