• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Swingarm bearings!

From the shop manual. Probably worth checking while everything is apart and before you go to the effort of modifying the pivot.

Servicing the swinging arm shaft
Check shaft taper using a dial gauge. Place the shaft on two identical reference
blocks. Turn the shaft and move the dial gauge horizontally to determine the
amount of distortion.
Service limit: 0.30 mm.
 
SimpleOne said:
From the shop manual. Probably worth checking while everything is apart and before you go to the effort of modifying the pivot.

Servicing the swinging arm shaft
Check shaft taper using a dial gauge. Place the shaft on two identical reference
blocks. Turn the shaft and move the dial gauge horizontally to determine the
amount of distortion.
Service limit: 0.30 mm.
Click to expand...

Personally I am more worried about the visible 'distortion' to my needle roller bearings! :eek:

fooked bearings.jpg
 
Yep, I've got the same thing going on. Most of the hard finish (chrome is it?) has been worn off and the bushings/sleeves have big dimples worn into them from the needles as most of the needles were seized in their races. I've just decided I'm replacing the whole lot of em, then I'll sort out a way to reliably get grease into them. After that its hopefully a matter of just pumping them full of grease on a frequent basis. It would get expensive if you had to replace all these bearings on a semi regular basis...
 
SimpleOne said:
Yep, I've got the same thing going on. Most of the hard finish (chrome is it?) has been worn off and the bushings/sleeves have big dimples worn into them from the needles as most of the needles were seized in their races. I've just decided I'm replacing the whole lot of em, then I'll sort out a way to reliably get grease into them. After that its hopefully a matter of just pumping them full of grease on a frequent basis. It would get expensive if you had to replace all these bearings on a semi regular basis...
Click to expand...

I had thought I had found a linkage bearing kit from Husqvarnaworld but now they say no their supplier does not keep it - WTF? Even though shown on website ... and they think it was never available. (Husqvarnaworld are a new firm separated from Motosportz evidently). All the OEM bearing parts from Husky work out like 4-5 times more than a kit would!! :confused:
 
Yeah, i ordered all my bearings from the husky dealer. Wasn't cheap, $237.10 AUD in total, but that didn't include the linkage bearings, so those are still to be ordered. The swingarm stuff was $$32.73 for bushings (2) and $54.55 for the needle bearings (4).

I'm trying to track down this kit for the linkage:
http://www.allballsracing.com/27-1148.html

But I might just end up getting that from the dealer as well.

Here's the old stuff:
 
Swingarm parts
Needle Bearing 22X28X11
Bush 27.5X17X45
Can these parts be sourced from a bearing supplier?
 
My update on this - I have just received the Pivot Works kit and all looks good (their online search function does not show this product BTW).
I have decided instead of the grease zerks to try and get static shaft seals that will fit the bushing/gudgeon on either side (much like the ones on the linkages). They will measure 22x28x3. I will then eliminate the central gap between the bearings to accommodate a seal on both ends. This way there will be more assurance of excluding water ingress IMO.
 
Interesting idea, and sounds like a good idea indeed. To confirm those measurements you have, is it as follows?
ID: 23mm, OD: 28mm, Width: 3mm
And that extra 6mm of width needed for both seals can be obtained by pushing both of the needle bearings together into the middle of the pivot point?

Sorry for the questions, but I'm away from the bike at the moment, otherwise I'd check for myself.

In terms of seal type (a subject I know nothing about), are you thinking along the lines of the TC/KC seals in the link below, or more like the TA2/KA2, or something completely different?
http://www.dkirubber.com/productsList.asp?cid=9

Cheers,
 
Hi - I also do not know alot about seals so cannot say at this stage what type would be best, but was looking at this useful site: http://www.ahpseals.com/services/calc.php

For this application the seal is actually static rather than accommodating a rotating shaft although a seal for such should also work. I intend to take a seal from my linkages and the swingarm setup and speak to a specialist bearing man/distributor for some expert advise.

Measurements: ID 22 (NOT 23) OD 28mm width 3mm - and yes push the two bearings together to give the 3mm each side. In fact I just recently did my sons KDX200 and the Pivot Works kit had one wide bearing as opposed to the OEM two bearings so that would even be an option if one could get the correct size I guess.

It looks like the site above has just about anything one needs - just need to know the best specs.
 
Ok - so I discovered that the long linkage bearings on the 'dogbone' have seals that are the right OD and ID for the swing arm ... just they are 1mm too wide (4mm instead of 3). I attach two pics for mock up to show what I want to do - the first with 4mm seals in place but will get 3mm. The second pic shows an alternative - use 16mm wide bearings (like on the linkage) and retain the gap between them so that you can also do the zerk mod. Personally I think this may be overkill as the first option will seal the grease in and so it should not need continual regreasing - the bearings actually have a small integrated rotational shaft seal anyway that may prevent grease easily reaching the rollers anyway.

What was interesting was that these linkage bearings with the single long shaft and with these seals were the only ones that were still 100% when I stripped everything down ... ie this type of seal had done its job perfectly.

IMG_1629 copy.jpg IMG_1633.jpg
 
Good stuff. If you find the right sort of seal, please post up where you sourced them from!
Personally, with a seal installed I'd be inclined to keep the bearing surface size the same as stock and lose the gap instead...
 
What is the lubrication frequency for the swing arm on a 2012 TE 511? How many points are there? My bike didn't come with a service manual. Is there any risk of over greasing?

For that matter, are there any other lubrication points I should be aware of?

Thanks.
 
I am sure there are two grease nipples/zerks on the linkages like the 610/610 (right underneath the shock) - you can grease those without fear as there is no room to blow any seals out. I would do it at least every 6 months and more often if you ride wet and muddy terrain. Ideally pull the linkages and swing arm to inspect and grease etc. Regarding the swingarm there is no zerk - the suggestion was made for fitting one to the hollow shaft and drilling it to lube the bearings. In the end I have rather just fitted seals and packed the bearings with grease and am confident that this is already a vast improvement over OEM which are unbelievably not protected with extra seals.
 
Laurence said:
What is the lubrication frequency for the swing arm on a 2012 TE 511?
Click to expand...

Unlike conventional bikes the CTS system on the 449/511 make them stupid EZ to do. I do mine twice a year. Pop the cover off, remove the big round stud which is the inner race, glop some good waterproof grease in there and put it back together. EZ.
 
Big Dom, what sort of seals have you ended up using?

I actually ended up taping the swing arm pivot externally, but until I've given the bike some proper rides to make sure it doesn't cause any issues, I'll keep the pics to myself (lest I lead someone else astray with my bad ideas :D)
 
I ended up using 4mm seals as 3mm were virtually impossible to get (well my neck of the woods anyway) and the 4mm were pretty standard, and no zerk at this stage.
 
Some good info here can someone confirm the swingarm bearing size on a 2013 Txc250 please. Also the seals mod with spacer removal thanks
 
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