• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Stranded...

RDTCU

RDTCU

Husqvarna
Pro Class
First time the SMS has left me stuck in 16k miles, fuel pump quit a mile from the house... Relay and fuse are good, just no pump... I'll push it back and pull the tank, hopefully just a broken wire...
 
Sorry to hear it man- your bike has been pretty inspirational:) (you know, in terms of not falling victim to the usual ills of the 630's!) Mines got 13.5K miles on it now and I've gotta admit I'm getting a little paranoid about such things starting to occur. Let us know how it works out.
 
Waited 10 min for the wife to bring the car for my gear so I could push it up the hill and coast home. Checked it one more time, fired right up and rode it home. Go figure... I'll probably dig into it this weekend.
 
Haven't taken a closer look at it yet, but what are the symptoms for those who have had their tip-over sensor go bad, and how do you bypass it?
I just had a quick look at the shop manual and it looks like the tip-over sensor goes straight back to the ECU instead of cutting out anything directly.

There's also a chance that the fuel pump relay is going bad, it still clicked every time, but may not have been making contact.

It's something in the fuel pump circuit that self-corrected, at least for now. I won't be riding it out of the neighborhood until I can pin it down.
 
These pumps are a known point of failure and there are good threads here about their issues.

I had one of these fuel pumps fail on me over time.
After the pump warms up from cold, it would die and then come to life about an hour later after it had cooled down sufficiently and would then die again after it had warmed up.

Unless you find some other cause, my advice, replace the pump or carry a spare and the required tools:)
 
Not sure what you mean, but you just need to replace the pump itself, not the entire assembly.
The pump itself is available from a number of sources including some autoparts shops, however depending on the make, some of them may vary in terms of pump diameter and hose nozzle thickness which can result in assembly issues

Make sure you zip tie the pump nicely back in place - http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/fi-fuel-pump-mod.3053/
 
I didn't know if there was a recommended replacement besides the factory part, as not all internal fuel pumps are created equal and i didn't want to be digging through their rack looking for one the correct size with the correct fittings.

ETA: Just ordered a direct replacement from CNT on Amazon.
 
On a related note, my bike had the fuse locations swapped. In the manual, the picture and description match up, but the label on the cover does not.
My bike had the fuses in the location shown on the cover label, which means 23 and 23B are swapped compared to the manual.
It's not hard to see how they could be mixed up, since the fuse holders have enough loose lead and can be easily slid on and off of the bracket.

huskyfusepic.jpg
 
Seems to me that a bad fuel pump is a trivial thing to diagnose:
Undo the quick disconnect from the tank to the throttle body and see if there is fuel squirting out. (If you want to end up on youtube as a warning to future generations, direct the flow onto the hot exhaust)

Is the tank vent plugged? That would create a vacuum and give you the same symptoms. You think it is related to heat, but the 10mn "cool down" might have nothing to do with temperature. It might be how long it takes for air to get back into the tank.
 
It's not the plumbing side of the fuel pump, the pump would not prime (you can normally hear the pump running) when turning on the key or attempting to crank. The relay would click on, and then off after the prime cycle timer, but the pump would not run.
 
I don’t know if it can help… as I'm not 100% sure I understood you, sorry :o

In my Te310, the fuel pump once “died” (not noise at all when I put the ignition key on) … because one of the pump wires had broken (or disconnected, I don’t remember)
I could check it after I removed the fuel tank and removed the fuel pump from the tank, of course.

So it was very easy to repair.
 
RDTCU said:
That would make sense, but wouldn't explain how it fixed itself 10 min later... :P
Click to expand...

1) on my TE510, has same pump assembly, one of the cable lugs had opened up over time and slipped off it's connector - could be that you have a loose connection of sorts.
2) sometimes these pumps stop and then recover intermittently afore they die forever.
 
HuskyBrutha said:
1) on my TE510, has same pump assembly, one of the cable lugs had opened up over time and slipped off it's connector - could be that you have a loose connection of sorts.
2) sometimes these pumps stop and then recover intermittently afore they die forever.
Click to expand...


I'll find out either way when my new $30 pump arrives :D
 
RDTCU said:
It's not the plumbing side of the fuel pump, the pump would not prime (you can normally hear the pump running) when turning on the key or attempting to crank. The relay would click on, and then off after the prime cycle timer, but the pump would not run.
Click to expand...


These pumps tend to fail when they get hot then restart when cool.

Hard to diagnose.

My 2010 TE250 did the same thing twice. I took it out on the trail wiggled some wires and plugged it in and it ran till it got hot again.

Dealer swapped out the whole pump and it has worked fine for 4 Years.

Change the fuel filter too.
 
Repair manual says not to run it dry for longer than 3 seconds, if I remember correctly (in the section on testing it when it is out the tank).
 
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