• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

sm610 won't start

L

lochenjons

Husqvarna
This bike is putting me thru hell. Bought it at 8k miles, cam chain was 7 clicks out, checked it again at 10k and it was at 8. Ordered up my parts and while waiting forever got to 12k, in that time it got to 12 clicks out. Tore up the reed valve cover, replaced it and the "valve." Also, one of the flywheel rotor magnets had gotten loose and there were metal bits everywhere, had no idea, ran great, only found out cause of doing the cc. Replaced everything, got a new rotor from regulatorrectifier.com (same ro610 as electrex world). The first bag filter was PACKED full of debris, other filters clean.

Anyway, after putting it all back together she won't run. Cranks, hiccups out the carb and that's it.

Has spark - although maybe not as strong as it should be? Hard to tell, it's blue/white, maybe it's the iridium plug I'm not used to with the smaller electrode. New plug btw, same spark and same no start with the old one

Probably getting fuel - didn't touch the carb, plug looks s little wet. I could give it some ether to verify I guess. It doesn't seem to flood after cranking it fir awhile, not sure if it's just how this bike is but I know some of my other bikes gas would be pouring out the overflow after cranking them that long

Timing is perfect - tore it apart again to check. With timing marks on clutch side lined up the punch mark on the cam gear is level with the head surface. Thought maybe the new rotor might have a different alignment with the Woodruff key (which looked fine btw) perhaps. But looking at the manual, the "t" at least points in the general direction (about 11 o'clock) at tdc. Don't have the husky tool to verify exactly but I'm sure it's right. Thought it interesting that the plug won't fire when turning it over by hand as I've done before on older bikes. I guess it's not fast enough unless by the starter?

Valves were pretty tight after I put it back together. Seems odd since obviously I set them after taking it apart to do the cc the first time. In spec now and no difference.

Going to check compression tomorrow if I can find my Guage. Definitely feels like good compression turning it over by hand but I'll check anyway

Battery is charged and I tried a second bigger battery since that one was low originally before I charged it, no difference (other than slightly faster cranking with the bigger battery)

Gone over everything and can't figure it out. I did notice it seems to be sucking air in the exhaust when I put my hand over it, also pushes out. Don't know if that's just because it's not running or if that's a clue. Don't know what else to do, checked everything even remotely obvious or related to anything I changed or touched.
 
Got it to start! But only if I bump start it, and it's misfiring and dies easily. Once it dies it won't start with the starter, only bump starting.

My theory is its not getting a good spark and with the draw from the starter it's enough to not let it fire. Now the why is the question
 
Don't have the right adapter to check compression, only have threaded ones, I'll get one or at least one of the tapered rubber ones.

I tested the green and white wires from the pickup up coil and they were 101 ohms, should be around 100 so that should be good.

But when I checked the v from the red and black wires going to the regulator it read 23 vac with the key on and 25 when cranking. Should be 55-60 cranking. This sounds like the stator to me, which seems likely after the magnet came off and wreaked havoc. I'm not a fan of "throw part technology" so I want to be sure the stator is bad. At this point it sure sounds like it, it's putting out half the voltage - weak spark
 
Stator would only affect the charging of the battery. If your battery is fully charged right now and cranking over quickly the stator/charging system isn't keeping it from starting.

I wonder if the loose magnet carnage is keeping the crank position sensor from seeing the flywheel rotation? You might watch the sensor values while cranking the bike.

.
 
DYNOBOB said:
Stator would only affect the charging of the battery. If your battery is fully charged right now and cranking over quickly the stator/charging system isn't keeping it from starting.

I wonder if the loose magnet carnage is keeping the crank position sensor from seeing the flywheel rotation? You might watch the sensor values while cranking the bike.

.
Click to expand...
I thought that it only affected charging too but saw a couple posts about it fixing no/weak spark but that must be since a new stator comes with a pickup coil which was probably their problem.

What kind of values am I looking for? Ohms still right or would there be v coming out of it? There was some hidden magnetic gunk packed in behind the pickup, I took it out and cleaned everything thoroughly, no difference
 
Well I'm getting no v while cranking from the green and white, ohms doesn't change during cranking, except now it says 96.7 instead of 101. Also no reading when measuring the red and black, think I read somewhere someone got 259 ohms on a running bike.

If the exciter coil (which I believe to be the red and black) went kaput, would this produce weak spark? Or just low charging? Sounds like I need a new/rebuild my stator either way
 
Ok, an update: got quoted $220 bucks to rebuild the stator. I've decided since the cost of a new one isn't too much more than that, I'm going to try my hand at rewinding this one.

First off, the reason the op in the thread I linked used the thicker wire with a transformer is the wire for the exciter is tiny! It would take forever to do it by hand. Not to mention fragile and it would suck to be winding wire all day and have it break, should be one solid strand for the coil. However, despite all that I'm going to try to use the same type of wire with no transformer like how it is now. If this fails, I'll go the same route he did. The hard work there is done, he's already figured out exactly the type of transformer to use

Also, I discovered one of the low voltage coils has a pretty big break in the coil and testing the three yellow wires, one wire fails the test. Should be at least .5 ohms between each wire. So this means I have to rewind at least one low voltage coil as well

So tomorrow I'm going to get all the needed wire and epoxy and such and give this a go this weekend. If there's interest and I'm successful, I'll do a write up, been taking a lot of pictures already as I began dissecting the stator
 
Not yet. My mind is pretty set on the stator lol. It definitely needs rebuilding/rewinding either way. I'm still planning on checking comp... eventually
 
Well, I did it. Rewound the stator. All connections test in spec, exciter reads 260 ohms now. Gonna wait at least a couple days to make sure the epoxy is set, I used a lot.

If I learned anything its that it's not worth it to do yourself. Maybe with thicker Guage exciter wire with a transformer but definitely not the way I did it. The low voltage wire does not bend easily enough to make tight coils. I thought the stock winding looked sloppy but it looked a lot better than my job. Exciter winding alone took about 7 hours and it's not nearly as neat as I was hoping. If the epoxy does its job it should last, I'm hoping. I'll let you know if she runs when the time comes. If it does fail, I have a plan b but really hoping it lasts a long time cause I do not want to do this again

Edit: gonna clean up the excess epoxy once done but this is it
vhOJiJs.jpg
 
Ok. Doesn't run. And now I have no spark. Now I'm inclined to think I messed something up with the stator but can't figure out what.

The three yellow wires all read .5 ohms to each other. The Green and white still read 100 ohms. The Black and red read 260 at the stator, and at the cdi plug they read 260 still. But I'm not getting any voltage anywhere.

My understanding is there should be acv going into the cdi plug between the black and blue/yellow (the wires that stated as black/red from the stator). I get none. No dcv, nothing. Just resistance. No voltage going to coil either but I didn't expect any.
 
I'm really over this thing. Been searching for hours, nobody has new stators in stock. Nobody rewinds them. The place I talked to first sounded sketchy about rebuilding it so that's part of why I didn't go with then from the beginning. I'm gonna roll it down a cliff pretty soon. Seriously even if it did run, I feel like there's something else that's gonna go wrong with it eventually and it's going to be another unavailable part I'll need.

I'm guessing the problem with mine is even tho the resistance is good, the exciter isn't getting "excited" to create voltage.

... Just gotta find a good cliff now

Edit: it is getting spark, just really weak, can barely see it and it's not consistent. I'll crank it over for several seconds and nothing, then do it again and it'll spark once or twice, really faint. And it is getting voltage into the cdi, not sure what I did wrong/different but it's getting about 40vac.

I would like to test the input into the coil but can't figure out how. There's two blue wires and a much smaller white/Brown wire that all have continuity to ground. They don't change with cranking
 
Hang in there, you'll get it.

Two suggestions.
- Watch the green and white wires with a meter and turn the motor over slowly. Watch for a change on meter indicating the sensor is seeing the crank's position.
- Go over and start a thread on ADV in Thumpers. A lot of experienced guys there.

It doesn't seem right that the coil wires all show continuity to ground. ??

.
 
She runs! I replaced the igniting coil (not the pickup), finally got a decent blue spark. Still doesn't seem that strong tho maybe. Put the tank back on and she wouldn't fire, but started with a bump start.

Took her around the block and it ran better than it ever did. Usually would take a hard dive and a quick snap of the throttle to bring the front up in second, now she does it effortlessly.

Then I shut it off and tried to start again with the starter and it won't start. Finally at last feel I'm on the right track tho at least.
 
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