EricV
Husqvarna
AA Class
OK guys- feel free to laugh, at the drawing below and at this feel out. Seriously- have fun w/ it as I’m no engineer nor a metallurgist. Just spitballin’ here. I’m pretty frustrated w/ this CS spline issue. I’ve got about 14K on the TE630 now and sure enough my splines are getting more and more worn (using OEM sprockets, aside from one from Drive Systems.) Let me also say in advance that it’s not the purpose of this thread to review and belabor all of the ins and outs of the issue- for that you can go to:
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/disgusted.39509/
I am convinced that the wear on the splines is most attributable to side to side slop. So not rotational slop (though that sure doesn’t help)- but actually along the splines… wherein the sprocket “vibrates and migrates” along the splines (even a miniscule amount) and this is what wears them. This seems to be the case with mine, based on the marks I am seeing under close magnification. A new c-clip is supposed to help w/ this, but I don’t see how it can or does.
Like others I really wish our set-up was a bolt on CS sprocket. I’ve stared and stared at this thing trying to envision what may work. So again feel free to laugh at my “drawing” (seriously- it bites) but I think you’ll get the gist of what I’m thinking. Obvious note being that all needs to abut very closely to eliminate any migration.
Now again I couldn’t be any further from a metallurgist, which is why I’m soliciting opinions here before wasting my time talking to a machinist. My guess is that the drive shaft itself is too hard to modify, or that such a “notching” may weaken it to the point of failure. It’s also unlikely it can be tapped/threaded, or helicoiled (as I know nothing about these practices, to be honest.) It just seems to me that w/ that big ‘ol hole in the middle there must be some way to do a bolt on type of thing…some type of immobilization.
I also get that it’s probably a waste anyway. If mine holds up, say, another 10K then it’s just as likely I’ll be due a case splitting anyway. Still, I don’t like all of the slop I have and I know that once it’s begun the wear accelerates faster and faster (as it’s going in beyond the hardening surface.)
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/disgusted.39509/
I am convinced that the wear on the splines is most attributable to side to side slop. So not rotational slop (though that sure doesn’t help)- but actually along the splines… wherein the sprocket “vibrates and migrates” along the splines (even a miniscule amount) and this is what wears them. This seems to be the case with mine, based on the marks I am seeing under close magnification. A new c-clip is supposed to help w/ this, but I don’t see how it can or does.
Like others I really wish our set-up was a bolt on CS sprocket. I’ve stared and stared at this thing trying to envision what may work. So again feel free to laugh at my “drawing” (seriously- it bites) but I think you’ll get the gist of what I’m thinking. Obvious note being that all needs to abut very closely to eliminate any migration.
Now again I couldn’t be any further from a metallurgist, which is why I’m soliciting opinions here before wasting my time talking to a machinist. My guess is that the drive shaft itself is too hard to modify, or that such a “notching” may weaken it to the point of failure. It’s also unlikely it can be tapped/threaded, or helicoiled (as I know nothing about these practices, to be honest.) It just seems to me that w/ that big ‘ol hole in the middle there must be some way to do a bolt on type of thing…some type of immobilization.
I also get that it’s probably a waste anyway. If mine holds up, say, another 10K then it’s just as likely I’ll be due a case splitting anyway. Still, I don’t like all of the slop I have and I know that once it’s begun the wear accelerates faster and faster (as it’s going in beyond the hardening surface.)
