• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Austria - About 2014 & Newer
     FE = 4st Enduro & FC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

FE/FC OW40 Mobil 1 Oil

duggoey said:
On the point of this oil - there are many using it with good long term results, even if for example it is a few notches short of the best stuff, you know it is better to change good oil regularly than to let great to oil circulate round and round and fill up with carp.
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Agreed, I absolutely hate it when my engine fills up with carp! :D
 
What is the difference between maxilube and the friction modifiers we try to avoid when running automotive oils in our bikes?
 
Why are some of the bikes calling for 10-50 or 10-60 weight oil? What is the risk of using a 0-40 in those bikes?
I just got a KTM690 and it calls for 10-60. That bike runs real lean and hot from the factory to pass smog test - is the 50/60 weight KTM'S answer to deal with the extra heat? OR did KTM sell their official oil recommendation to a company that makes an uber-expensive, hard to find weight oil - the 10-60?
 
River-Runner said:
Why are some of the bikes calling for 10-50 or 10-60 weight oil? What is the risk of using a 0-40 in those bikes?
I just got a KTM690 and it calls for 10-60. That bike runs real lean and hot from the factory to pass smog test - is the 50/60 weight KTM'S answer to deal with the extra heat? OR did KTM sell their official oil recommendation to a company that makes an uber-expensive, hard to find weight oil - the 10-60?
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Some people here have reported noisy cam chain tensioners while using other oil on some KTM models. Superduke 1290 is one of them. Changing the oil and filter cured it. Not sure if the reason for that was the oil or a faulty filter.
Mostly happened in tropical - hot climate. In my superduke 1290 I stick with the Motorexpensive 10w-60 oil for now due to warranty issues and I don't want to give KTM an excuse not to honour any claims.
In the FE501 I use Total (or ELF, he same) 10W-50 full synthetic with no issues. Only use this as I was able to buy bulk cheap and it's very good. When I run out I have to look at other options.
 
Not sure but when I went to get the oil changed in my new ram 2500 with the 6.4 ltr hemi (detuned challenger SRT engine) I discovered I must run 0w 40wt making for a pricy oil change. Think it was $9.00 a at for Mobil 1. Hence I am going to change the oil every 5 or six thousand instead of every 3. I really don't quite get some of these requirements. Wife's dart is 0w 20wt synthetic as well.....
 
Another use for 0w-40 is for a gun lube. I have been reading on some gun forums that 0w-40 has been found to be the best rust preventative product anyone has found. Also is being used for lube on moving parts such as pistol slides with great results. Most gun lubes lose their anti rust properties in less than a month. I have gave a few of my rifles that get surface rust very easily a light wipe down with it and so far they haven't shown any signs of rusting.
 
River-Runner said:
Why are some of the bikes calling for 10-50 or 10-60 weight oil? What is the risk of using a 0-40 in those bikes?
I just got a KTM690 and it calls for 10-60. That bike runs real lean and hot from the factory to pass smog test - is the 50/60 weight KTM'S answer to deal with the extra heat? OR did KTM sell their official oil recommendation to a company that makes an uber-expensive, hard to find weight oil - the 10-60?
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Their oil recommendations are based upon oil company contracts. Especially coming from KTM who now is instructing their 350/450/500 customers to lay their bikes on their sides and fill the oil filter well with oil, thus preventing hydraulic oil filter collapse from too heavy of oil. I don't buy the tolerances either, my 2004/5 KTM 525 says 10W30 and it's an old RFS engine. That's 2.6cSt@150°C vs. 3.8cSt@150°C of M1 0W40, so oil pressure is not an issue at the elevated temps.
 
Tinken said:
Their oil recommendations are based upon oil company contracts. Especially coming from KTM who now is instructing their 350/450/500 customers to lay their bikes on their sides and fill the oil filter well with oil, thus preventing hydraulic oil filter collapse from too heavy of oil. I don't buy the tolerances either, my 2004/5 KTM 525 says 10W30 and it's an old RFS engine. That's 2.6cSt@150°C vs. 3.8cSt@150°C of M1 0W40, so oil pressure is not an issue at the elevated temps.
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My GS says to run 15w-50 mineral or semi synthetic. What would you say about running a 10w-40 in that kind of application?
 
You guys have finally persuaded me to try mobil 1. The Aus Mobil 1 page shows the same product under a different name but notes its the same as the 0w40 "European Car Formula" sold in the states. The only place I can find it for sale is 'AutoBarn', but the 1L bottle on the shelf had some slightly different words, gold bottle. I am ordering 5L of this so it hope its the same product.
 
The above was also a poorly worded question... do you guys know of a supplier that stocks the Mobil 1 0w-40 'European Car Formula' in Australia?
 
duggoey said:
The above was also a poorly worded question... do you guys know of a supplier that stocks the Mobil 1 0w-40 'European Car Formula' in Australia?
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Hard to find in Oz, and still expensive compared to other countries.
I do agree with the Mobil1 0w40 idea and Thinken's train of thought, however in Oz it's not an option as far as I'm concerned.
I use Elf 10W50 which you can get from your local Elf-Total distributor. Have a look at the Elf Oz website for one in your area.
I know this is debatable but in my opinion Elf (or Total= the same) is one of the best oils available.
They don't do the big hooha thing but a lot of people use them for racing despite having different stickers on the bike.
This oil works extremely well for the hot conditions we have in Oz.
Go and have a talk to your local distributor ( I won't mention the price on here but you'll be very happily surprised) I'll buy this in 20l containers and it's well priced and VERY good.
The oil comes out clean after 5 Hrs and testing has proven if I leave it in longer due to the riding schedule it holds up very well.

I have been using this stuff for ages in different bikes and this oil performed exceptionally well even compared to big know brands.
I know, like tyres, oil is a personal preference. All I can say I never had to fix any of my bikes due to premature wear, lubrication issues, bad shifting gearboxes, slipping clutches, running hot or any of the oil related issues.
The 501 has 60 hours on it and the oil comes out clean and never had a spanner on it except for service.
 
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