• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Austria - About 2014 & Newer
     FE = 4st Enduro & FC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

FE/FC OW40 Mobil 1 Oil

I've used the M1 0-30 in the winter with no issues but I was getting some slipping on the rekluse bikes, normal clutches it worked fine. With reklise 2s I use Rotella and change every couple hours, with rekluse 4s bike I use Royal purple max cycle which are the two oils I've found that won't slip my auto clutch . just my 2 pennies.
 
Have to be careful with the 0W30, it usually contains energy conserving modifiers that the 0W40 does not. My Honda rider I sponsor uses the Recluse clutch in her CR250 and it works perfectly. We actually switched her over from Amsoil 10W40 which was causing issues.
 
Motosportz said:
Tell them your buddy Kelly has been doing in for 35 years on hundreds of bikes and has had very few issues ever. No trans, no clutches, valves last, motors look new inside...
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Me too since probably the late 70's, cars, motorcycles, boats
Mobil 1.
Just to add; have flown many jet aircraft since 1974 and their owners (USMC, American Airlines) used exclusively synthetic lubricants in those jet engines.
 
Is this the Mobil 1 0W40 "European Car Formula" that ya'll are talking about? My 350 XCF manual recommends 10W50 or 10W60. Is 0W heavy enough to provide engine protection?
 
There's no such thing as true zero, M1 0W40 is about 72cSt at ambient temperatures, approximately. 22 Times heavier than it needs to be at normal operating temperatures. Works perfectly in the new bikes.
 
Would you say that M1 would be better in a YZ250 gear box than Dexron Automatic Tranny fluid? Running Dexron now.
 
Yes. ATF was never designed to deal with clutch debris. And where as ATF doesn't climb and needs to be pumped, M1 0W40 climbs pretty well. We actually use M1 0W40 with an EP additive in our race bikes which helps when slammed into gears.
 
How many hours of basic trail riding with my 2T between oil changes would you all suggest when running the M1?
I'm using BelRay now, but it's way too expensive, and I always have jugs of the M1 around since I use it in my TE 511.
 
Thanks Tinken that makes it a little easier and cheaper knowing I can use the same oil in all my bikes as far as that part of bike maintenance is concerned.
 
My local canadian tire had the 0W40 jugs on for 50% off. I bought lots. I will still use up my faithful Rotella. My SMS630 sure clanks on startup till the oil circulates so hopefully the 0W40 and an SS filter will help that. Cam.
 
When it's cold, it's like trying to suck wheel bearing grease through a drinking straw. And what ends up happening is most of the oil gets shoved through the bypass. On some engines, like on the 449, if a paper filter is used which cannot pass heavy oil quickly, it binds the oil pump because the bypass is after the filter. This is also the way the KTM engines are engineered which is why they crush filters sometimes on start up. If nothing else, your starter circuit will thank you.
 
racemx904 said:
Ive been using Rotella for 6 years with great results... although I change it every ride....
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I ran Rotella T6 Synthetic 5W40 in my KLR exclusively. I could get 2000 miles of mostly road out of it before the shifter started getting crunchy. That's how I knew it was time to change it. But when it's fresh, shifting was butter-smooth -- better than any oil I ever tried. It was very consistent at 2000 miles.
But, if I'm changing out automotive oils after 5 hours, I wonder if it's going to be as cost effective as running the Bel-Ray in my 2T. I am changing the Bel-Ray out after about 12 - 15 hours and it comes out as red as it went in.
 
Depends on how you ride. It may last 5 hours, or +20. I always say check it at 5 hours just to be safe. Our race bikes get changed after every race regardless of use. Rotella is good, many factory race teams use it. It is a little more expensive than Mobil because it's Shell.
 
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