• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Oil Change Schedule for X-Lite

I have a couple of Yamaha TTR's, they don't require much maintenance. My KLR is low maintenance. Not trying
To be a smart alec, even the jap race bikes require a lot of attention, or you pay later. Just trying to share
What's worked for longevity for me and the guys I know, why spend money on engine rebuilds, chains, sprockets,
Bearings, when a little extra oil and grease will keep you riding and money in your pocket. Dual sport just means
It's street legal, the manuals are clear what they are, trail riding for the most part can be harder than racing, due
To time running, and styles. My 511 manual basically says its not suitable for extended highway use.
I only wish a fellow rider well, and hope he gets hours of use from his bike. I know it seems silly to do so frequent
Oil changes and other maintenance with these type bikes, but it really helps the hold together longer.
 
I have a couple of Yamaha TTR's, they don't require much maintenance. My KLR is low maintenance. Not trying
To be a smart alec, even the jap race bikes require a lot of attention, or you pay later. Just trying to share
What's worked for longevity for me and the guys I know, why spend money on engine rebuilds, chains, sprockets,
Bearings, when a little extra oil and grease will keep you riding and money in your pocket. Dual sport just means
It's street legal, the manuals are clear what they are, trail riding for the most part can be harder than racing, due
To time running, and styles. My 511 manual basically says its not suitable for extended highway use.
I only wish a fellow rider well, and hope he gets hours of use from his bike. I know it seems silly to do so frequent
Oil changes and other maintenance with these type bikes, but it really helps the hold together longer.

I hear ya loud and clear. I just recently bought a Yami WR450f - I like em all and every dirt bike will require a bit of maintenence if you hope for longevity from engine.

Happy riding :cheers:
 
So for trail/farm riding how can I tell when I should be changing the oil? Is sending it in to be tested worthwhile? What specifics should I look for if I did send the used oil to be tested? Thanks for the replies, I'm learning lots!
 
James Patton

Often time riding it slower makes it hotter

trail riding for the most part can be harder than racing, due
To time running, and styles.

I wonder if others agree with these statements? I guess I could see trail riding being tough on an engine if you're stopping and shutting the motorcycle off frequently.
 
5 laps (that's a race) around the TT track, my fan does not come on, 30 min. Of single track, playing, she is hot, fan is running. Air over the radiator helps cool the bike, ride a real dual sport KLR, or something with a temperature
Guage and see the result.
 
That a trail BIKE is lower maintenance is a different issue than trail RIDING.....
Trail bikes are not high performance, have more oil capacity and are basically bulletproof...and they have modest handling and performance and higher weight.
Trail RIDING on what is essentially a race bike can create plenty of stress depending on the trails. Constant airflow and moderate RPMs wont work it too hard but slogging around in the mud at low speed or constant high RPM use puts you right back in that 'change the oil a lot' mode.

Changing the oil is always cheap insurance and once you get to know your bike you can get a pretty good sense of how dirty it is.
 
When my water pump went out, the bike only got hot when I was riding behind my kids. At speed it did just fine aircooled.

My Suburban did just fine aircooled too, on a hot summer day for many miles with no fluid. Until the first stop sign. Poof! Why mile after mile? No fluid... no heat against sensor... no temp warning.
 
I don't think you can compare racing to trail riding. I mean racing you're going all out, full bore, pushing your bike to the limit for the entire race.
Most trail riding doesn't allow you to do that because it's very slow going, tight terrain. I guess the argument might be that you're going fast so the
engine is staying cooler because of the wind factor but it's also working a lot harder at higher rpm. I'm still not buying it, though.
 
We have an '11 and '12 TE250 both powered up, we do trail riding mostly, easy enduros, and some dual sport rides so there is some road riding, and try to keep the rpms reasonably low, no racing or hard riding. I change the oil every 200-400 miles, or about 15-20 hours ride time. I had mine for year now, ride it just about every weekend there is no snow (and in between if I can), no engine problems. I discussed this with a trusted mechanic who was familiar with the bike and what I do with it. These intervals sounded fine to him given the circumstances... so I guess it really depends on what you do with the bike. I don't want to wasteful of resources, but certainly don't want to blow up my engine! At first I thought wow, I'm doing alot of oil changes, but considering it is has such a small oil capacity and all that this little bit of oil is doing, it seems about right. The extra maintenance is a small price to pay for having such a fun lightweight bike. As others here have stated, the alternative would be a less exciting heavier bike.
 
I run trails pretty hard and race Enduros. Ive always changed my oil at 10 hrs. Last year i went to 13+ hrs once and noticed a difference in color, a bit darker than usual. The 3 extra hours made a visual difference. I stick to 10.
 
11 TXC 250 and 09 TXC 250. Oil every 5 to 6 hours on both. Probably overkill...but frankly, we race them, trail ride them, and when I change oil it always looks quite good. I like it that way as oppose to it looking like black goo. I change the filter every other oil change and clean the screens every 3rd or so. Mobil1 15-50. Oh...and I change the airfilter every ride (no toil) if dusty. I won't skip on this easy stuff, even if my wife declared me nuts.
 
Was in the shop on Monday while we were finishing up maintenance work on our TE310's which are some of the bikes we use for our riding tours. Danny walked across the shop holding an oil jug so I couldn't see it, gains Ty's approval for the oil and tucked down behind one of the bikes out of sight while he poured oil in. "So Danny,... I asked, whatcha pouring in?" Peering at me through the space between the rear tire and frame with a grin he said nothing. He was pouring Torco 10w40 in actually. We currently own five 310's and they all use 40 weight oil now. This week's tour is from Zipty to Vegas. As soon as they come back from a tour, they all get changed.
 
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