Magnificent 7

[dartyppyt]

I'll be back next fall to keep going on the six.

This was my winter project from the 6 to give me a break.

I tried some new things on this one that I'll use on few of the 6.

This is my new race bike 17 TE Husky 150. I just shall say customized it to me.

 

[GaryM]

Oh no I want one Darin. Maybe with a 300 motor.

Beyond normal again. The best!!

 

[dartyppyt]

Thanx Gary!

The new ones are awesome and well built. Price tag is up there but well worth it.

I wouldn't mind a 300 as well.

83 CR 250 is getting the same color frame.

 

[suprize]

poooh! do up another twin shocker!!

 

[Chayzed Pilot]

Cool bike darty.

 

[dartyppyt]

Cool bike darty.

Thanx! My wheels are already turning with ideas, to finish the 6 vintage ones.

 

[jimspac]

I soaked them with PB Blaster. Then heated with propane heat. Soaked Heat. Soaked Heat.
Then drove them out with bearing driver and brass hammer. Other two tapped right out. This set here, I had to really rap on it good for 1st Half way. Then it moved really good. Even tried press but those lil magnesium webs start getting marred, so I stopped that.

I used my premium gas grill that my wife felt was not worth replacing burner plates and grill rack on again. I soaked the left case to remove the crank bearing for a 1980 250CR. Seeing the transmission bearings were keepers, I clamped an aluminum riser block to keep them from falling out but allowing the crank bearing to drop out. Seeing the case had to be flipped over and resoaked to install the new crank bearing(placed in freezer in a zip lock for 30 minute), So it is prudent to lightly retain any bushings or bearings that you do not want to drop/ I used long 8mm SHCSs to keep the engine mount bushings and used top and bottom strap clamps to hold the transmission bearings in after the riser was removed to install the crank bearing

 

[jimspac]

Darin, have you been able to test the KBS that you used in the crankcase yet. I wanted to make sure both the KBS and VHT paint are both fuel impervious before I use them in 3 of my engines and 1 belonging to a friend.

 

[dartyppyt]

Darin, have you been able to test the KBS that you used in the crankcase yet. I wanted to make sure both the KBS and VHT paint are both fuel impervious before I use them in 3 of my engines and 1 belonging to a friend.

Jim,

I have moved completely away from anything in an aerosol can that is at an auto parts store.

Just not having any luck long term with ethanol in the fuels and stuff in engine degreasers.

What I am using is:

KBS coatings inside the crank webs after bead blasting and good cleaning.

On outside of cases, carb bowls, hubs, forks, triple clamps, etc....

Been bead blasting them. Cleaning them in acetone, baking at 100 degrees to see if any oils appear.
Then cleaning with acetone. Been spraying all that stuff in KG industries coatings.
Expensive for a pint but it goes a long ways with an air brush. Stuff doesn't chip, is abrasion proof and no worrys about ethanol fuel or etc.... Messing it up.

Even tried it on new four stroke high temp engines and tested a silencer. Stuff is bullet proof.

Notice the artwork/paintwork on son's engine, the silencer and hubs. All KG coatings.

I dislocated my knee and waiting on surgeon/specialist recommendations yet.

But this fall, your gonna see some neat stuff planned for the six......

Goal is to get these 6 wrapped up and taken to mid Ohio next year for display.

 

[jimspac]

My concern with the KBS Rust Seal was that it is one part. My knowledge regarding fuel tank sealers like POR and Kreme is that they are both single part and both fail over time because single part components depend on solvent evaporation to cure of the ethanol in fuel. That is why I recommend Caswell fuel tank sealer over POR and Kreme. 2 part hybrid epoxy is impervious to harsher chemicals than ethanol.

 

[GaryM]

Darin,
If needed i have the best Surgeon ever. He put 20 + big and small pieces of my TPF knee together I mean who could do that but
a dr whos done a few x game guys.

So far have used the KBS as primer on first case - tough real tought stuff ! It does not have any UV
protection but this is hard stuff. Will use again. Please note we need this product because to put new bearings in
we will need to heat cases to 400 degrees again.

So far finding air dry gun coat not sticking well as compared to heat cured ceracoat two part. Still experimenting with this coating.

May try hubs next and use as base primer.

Are you thinning it down to spray ?? Or is spraying will out of cans ?

 

[dartyppyt]

Gary,

I've tested both products.

I've leaned towards the KG stuff. After items are bead blasted, cleaned with acetone and grease free. Just heat part to 100 degrees. Pour KG straight from can into air brush. Apply, then bake at 200 degrees for 1hr.
Let cool and tough as nails.

Been using a cheapo airbrush from harbor freight. I clean it right after use with Advance Auto parts cleaner in spray can. Makes job go fast.

Yeah, if this wasn't the Workers Comp game..... This knee would be allready fixed.....

I'll get back up and running. Just matter of time.....

Jim, good to know on Caswel products.

 

[GaryM]

Thanks for feedback.

Oh good tip on heating cases to burn in bedded moisture and old oil. Been doin it now in big oven at tech shop.

Real good luck using a Acid on Alumium just like the anodizers. Learned from anodizers that this is the best pretreatment for AL to get things
to stick.

 

[dartyppyt]

Kinda planning on something special for 1 of 6 this winter.

In order for me to pull this off.....

I'm going to need an 81-82 regular alloy husky tank.

I also need a set of 17 1/4 eye to eye, Fox Air Shocks.

If you are wanting to let loose or know of anyone letting loose of these, just PM me.

Thanx

 

[dartyppyt]

Ok I got the shocks, so I will restore them.

Gas tank, nothing but high priced junk out there so I'll just use one of mine.

The rest...... I have tons of emails out to pull the rest off. But all responses been ok with making me custom one piece products. Other stuff, I will machine in house and custom paint.

 

[dartyppyt]

Thanks for feedback.

Oh good tip on heating cases to burn in bedded moisture and old oil. Been doin it now in big oven at tech shop.

Real good luck using a Acid on Alumium just like the anodizers. Learned from anodizers that this is the best pretreatment for AL to get things
to stick.

Gary,

Send me an email from your new email address.

I can only find your old one.

Thanx

 

[dartyppyt]

Before pics before refurbish and rebuild

 

[dartyppyt]

Fox Shox parts polishing up nicely.

All rebuild parts, bladders, etc..... are on order plus new decals.

I'll swing back around and get the bodies painted with heat absorbing paint, but I have a gas tank drying and don't want risk of overspray getting on it.

 

[dartyppyt]

This is Fox Shox body that came out of oven not long ago.

Kinda assembled it to get the picture of what will look like.

Since they are 79+ shox they get the fox tail sticker not the fox head.

But painted Husqvarna on top of body so you can read from rear bike.

Still waiting on rebuild parts and decals.

Got the new air bladders today.

Had to make a new rebound spring retainer out of a .040 stainless shim, since no longer available.
Can't tell it from the original one. Must had some serious rebound cause the rebound spring, clip and check ball was removed from one shock.

 

[dartyppyt]

Kinda a better shot of how they will look.

Sticker is like Obama care. It's the wrong one but it got repealed then gets replaced!

Ignore everything in background cause bike is going new direction.