• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Magnificent 7

Wrapped this baby round a tree today.
I snapped back brake lever off.
That two in a row!
Sons says that huge muscle on your arm! Yeah but it hurts!
 

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What grade of aluminum rod are you using to weld the aluminum tanks/

I am using 4043 aluminum rod.
It has some silicon in it to make it flow lil better. Which means I have less pin holes to go back to fill when I pressurize tank, for air leaks. I also have 5356 as well but I like to use 4043 on the tanks.
I use a real small tungsten and small diameter rod. Prob takes me a lot longer but I have less melt through and less pin holes. Also, less flush grinding. I also keep my power down and let the tig torch do it's thing to heat the aluminum. Usually, takes me an hour to make a nice pass. I stop a lot to brush aluminum to clean and wipe off with acetone.
I cut my tanks with a line of masking tape. I use the thinnest disc as possible.
Then when aligning sides back together. I use masking tape to butt joint align, for several spot welds.
Guy can also overlap joints, but that means you will loose little fuel.
 
One thing I learned is when TIG welding aluminum and mag to spray with contact cleaner just prior to TIG contact. One welder I heard about uses a small stream of contact cleaner when welding Mag as the soot accumulates faster
 
I have 4043 wire for my MIG and found I can get 5356 wire for it also. I have the Eastwood MIG that can handle up to 5/16" thick steel but also came with a spool welder for aluminum. I got to try that out last year and was very impressed once I got the settings down. I use argon universally now as it is good on steel but required for stainless and aluminum.

My TIG is not square wave so I will be doing all aluminum with the MIG for now.
 
See I went the opposite way from a mig to a tig. 5356 is good if you are anodizing but you really have to keep your heat in towards weld.
 
My MIG is a nice Eastwood while my TIG is a cheap Harbor Freight inverter type. Because I was into sheetmetal when I got my first MIG in 1985, I did not even have a TIG until about 7 years ago
 
oh lord not again my brain just cooled from the last one and it was months ago how about a nice machining thread:thumbsup:
 
Numbers are just numbers my friend. They are all relative to each other by simply multiplying or dividing by 25.4 depending which direction the translation is directed
 
No just dirty ones on top that need wiped off. But it is almost ready for a good waxing.
Thing is beautiful. Pics don't do it just!
 
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