• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Magnificent 7

The picture with the black cover and gold husky emblem is the one I like best. Black and gold for sure. The rest of the bike looks great, with the black on the engine, it will be balanced.
 
Ok guys many thanx on help. Gives me ideas on what you see.

I can take the actual cylinder and do it gold and highlight the fins polished as well?

All I have to do is hit it with my small air grinder to widen the tips.
 
very deep, took me awhile to really soak in the genius but eventually it came to me! nothing like giving a nickname a nickname!:thumbsup:
 
Here is what I use as a base for the cases and crank webs.

Generally,

Several steps I do in the crank webs.

Degrease cases first

Beed blast inside webs to make sure get any corrosion and rot out.

I then heat case web with torch to burn out any oil in pores of magnesium.

Beed blast again and pick out any dark spots down in pores. Beed blast again make sure pores are clean.

Then use KBS Rust blast to acid whole area till metal is shiney.

Wash area with lacquer thinner.

I fill in any rot areas with JB Marine weld and sand and feather out.

One light coat of KBS rust seal. Too heavy coat and it bubbles.

Sand with 220 grit paper.

Put 2nd coat KBS on.

Here is can I just got and it comes in Red Oxide now.

Open can and stir.

Remember, don't get this stuff on your hands or you will be wearing it for week.

Also, any unused portion. You have to put plastic, plastic between lid and can when you tap lid back on.

If not, you gonna get a solid can of this stuff in couple days.

If you mess up! Good luck sandblasting this stuff back off! I'd digs deep in any metal pores.

600 degrees tolerant!
 

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sounds like a good fix. i have a set of freaking mint cases for my 84 wr250...except the punky crankcase..i saved it for one of these days tackling it
 
Here is my sprocket cover. Cut it down since it was broke and I will incorporate at some point, newer case saver design. It will go underneath it. If I do that in aluminum then I will gold anodize it.
 

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Here is my sprocket cover. Cut it down since it was broke and I will incorporate at some point, newer case saver design. It will go underneath it. If I do that in aluminum then I will gold anodize it.
very functional, wont have to remove to clean after a muddy ride
 
Thinking of leaving sprocket area behind chain cover shiney?

Tape this off while rest of case is black.
 

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Ok crank is off to Forest Stahl to press 390 crank apart and put the newer internal crank end on.
That way I can adapt the internal Electrex ignition on.
That bike ought to spool up faster.
 
Here is second coat. If you put it on thin, first coat, and let dry, you don't get hardly any air bubbles as oxygen is released from case.
Just sanding to scuff it up good with 220 grit paper. Now you can lay second coat on for good coverage. This stuff like epoxy! Really fills those small magnesium termite holes.
 

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