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Low Fuel kills the indicator lights on TE630 dash

KayDubbya

KayDubbya

Husqvarna
AA Class
So I'm puzzled how to deal with this and hoping for some leads. I've been re-working the wiring on my TE630. I installed a new MOSFET Regulator from Roadster Cycles and replaced the stator wires right back to the generator with high temp silicone wires, rerouted the wires away from the Exhaust headers and wrapped the pipes in exhaust tape as extra insurance.

Now when the low fuel sensor is activated it kills the indicator lights (on, turn signals, neutral, high beams) on the dash. Tachometer, clock, still display and the turn signals etc, still function, it's just the indicator lights that all shut off. I put a disconnect on the white/yellow wire that goes to the in-tank sensor and when I disconnect it, the lights all function normally, and when the tank is full of fuel, they work normally too. Something about the sensor is no longer working properly. The dash indicator lights worked fine prior to changing out the regulator so I'm not certain it's the sensor itself, but possibly something that got changed while I was tearing it apart.The sensor is showing a full 13v when I test it with a volt meter. What is the normal voltage across the sensor? I have pulled the pump assembly from the tank and inspected the wire to the sensor and it has a small tear at the bottom of the connector, but the black sleeve that covers the wire doesn't appear to be liquid tight so I wasn't sure if that was the issue.

Additional info... Prior to changing the regulator and stator wires I experienced another melt down on the stator wires and would get wildly fluctuating voltage readings. Now with the MOSFET regualtor I'm getting 14.1 volts but it's still jumping around quite a bit. Ranging from 14+ - 11.5v and all over the map in that range. No consistency at all. After 3 hours of riding the battery appears to still be at full charge, so there's that I suppose.
 
I think that the possible cause may be a short circuit inside the display. Did you spray deoxidizer for contacts on the instrument panel connector?
 
I'll try that. I'm not great at electrics so I'm trying to get my head around how the circuit works.
 
KayDubbya said:
So I'm puzzled how to deal with this and hoping for some leads. I've been re-working the wiring on my TE630. I installed a new MOSFET Regulator from Roadster Cycles and replaced the stator wires right back to the generator with high temp silicone wires, rerouted the wires away from the Exhaust headers and wrapped the pipes in exhaust tape as extra insurance.

Now when the low fuel sensor is activated it kills the indicator lights (on, turn signals, neutral, high beams) on the dash. Tachometer, clock, still display and the turn signals etc, still function, it's just the indicator lights that all shut off. I put a disconnect on the white/yellow wire that goes to the in-tank sensor and when I disconnect it, the lights all function normally, and when the tank is full of fuel, they work normally too. Something about the sensor is no longer working properly. The dash indicator lights worked fine prior to changing out the regulator so I'm not certain it's the sensor itself, but possibly something that got changed while I was tearing it apart.The sensor is showing a full 13v when I test it with a volt meter. What is the normal voltage across the sensor? I have pulled the pump assembly from the tank and inspected the wire to the sensor and it has a small tear at the bottom of the connector, but the black sleeve that covers the wire doesn't appear to be liquid tight so I wasn't sure if that was the issue.

Additional info... Prior to changing the regulator and stator wires I experienced another melt down on the stator wires and would get wildly fluctuating voltage readings. Now with the MOSFET regualtor I'm getting 14.1 volts but it's still jumping around quite a bit. Ranging from 14+ - 11.5v and all over the map in that range. No consistency at all. After 3 hours of riding the battery appears to still be at full charge, so there's that I suppose.
Click to expand...
Check the fuel reserve sensor
Make sure there is no fuel left in the sensor and then set the meter to the
"Impedance" scale and measure across contacts T3 and T4. Correct value
is as follows: 1.3 KOhm (+/- 10%) at 20 °C.
My value todayIMG_20190812_175430.jpg Screenshot_2019-08-12-20-06-42-430_com.google.android.apps.docs.png
 
I don't have the best quality meter, but I think my reading of 1.68 is pretty close. I'll double check that reading though. If the sensor is working correctly what other suggestions do you have. I'm going to run a new wire to the dash and see if there's a short that I somehow missed. Just send strange that the sensor seems to be working correctly but the resistance drop is causing a short to grind when it activated.
 
KayDubbya said:
I don't have the best quality meter, but I think my reading of 1.68 is pretty close. I'll double check that reading though. If the sensor is working correctly what other suggestions do you have. I'm going to run a new wire to the dash and see if there's a short that I somehow missed. Just send strange that the sensor seems to be working correctly but the resistance drop is causing a short to grind when it activated.
Click to expand...
as a last check I would check the resistance seen on the 68 ohm reserve circuit. puts you my detected value. you don't need a professional tool to make this measurement. just measure on the connector at numbers 3 and 4IMG_20190815_140925.jpg IMG_20190815_141625.jpg IMG_20190815_142406.jpg IMG_20190815_142454.jpg
 
I opened up the harness and tested the 68 ohm resistor and it tests properly. I'm going to run a new wire directly from the pump to the dash and try to bypass the rest of the wiring just in case there's a fault that I can't see.
 
KayDubbya said:
I opened up the harness and tested the 68 ohm resistor and it tests properly. I'm going to run a new wire directly from the pump to the dash and try to bypass the rest of the wiring just in case there's a fault that I can't see.
Click to expand...
you could check the values ​​on the cable w / y when inserting the dashboard ...... as a last test of the wiringScreenshot_2019-08-16-07-16-06-343_com.google.android.apps.docs.png
 
The W/Y wire shows 14v when the fuel level is high and drops to 0v when the sensor activated. Essentially it is going to ground and that turns of the other day indicator light instead of illuminating the low fuel light. Do you know what the voltage should be on that line when the sensor activates?
 
KayDubbya said:
The W/Y wire shows 14v when the fuel level is high and drops to 0v when the sensor activated. Essentially it is going to ground and that turns of the other day indicator light instead of illuminating the low fuel light. Do you know what the voltage should be on that line when the sensor activates?
Click to expand...



I have the same problem as you.
Did running a new wire from the pump to the dash solve the problem ?
 
HuskyBrutha said:
I have the same problem as you.
Did running a new wire from the pump to the dash solve the problem ?
Click to expand...
Haven't got back to it yet. I've been buried in work and given that I know what it means when all the dash lights go out, it hasn't gone back to the top of the "things that must get fixed immediately" list. I'll post up as soon as I can get to it though. Thanks for the reminder.
 
Hey KayDubbya

Whereabouts in the harness did you find the 68 ohm resistor ? I cant find it on mine.

Also did you solve your problem and if so how ?
 
HuskyBrutha said:
Hey KayDubbya

Whereabouts in the harness did you find the 68 ohm resistor ? I cant find it on mine.

Also did you solve your problem and if so how ?
Click to expand...

The resistor is buried deep in the wiring harness. If you follow the wire on the schematic you find it eventually. Unfortunately I never did find a solution and I sold the bike in May of this year. I expect the only solution is a new dash unit. I just couldn't deal with the high prices on eBay so unless someone wants to order a unit for the SWM clone to try, I can't think of a better fix. Sorry.
 
KayDubbya said:
The resistor is buried deep in the wiring harness.
Click to expand...
I was afraid you would say that.:cry:

I have both the TE and the SMS.
A few years ago while trying to solve the problem, I swapped tanks (and I think dashes) from the TE (which has no problems ) to the SMS (the problem child with the reserve light problem) and the SMS tank (and dash) went on to the TE.
None of which solved the problem on the SMS and the reserve light remained off on the TE showing that the problem was not in the tanks or the dashes of either bike.
I concluded the problem was in the harness of the SMS.

Because the problem was still new on the SMS, if I turned the bars to left full lock the Reserve light would go out and would eventually go on as the bars were turned right .
Compared to the TE, the harness on the SMS is very tight as it goes around neck of the frame. Turning full right, really stretches the harness and full left releases that tension.
However now the light is on regardless of left or right full lock.

Also when the key is turned on the reserve light shines very bright. After the engine is started and while riding , the reserve light is dimmed a bit until the fuel level drops to reserve and then the light shines brightly again.

Based on the above and this thread, I have concluded that the W/Y wire is lightly touching to ground somewhere and that is providing it some -ve current to dimly light the reserve light.

What do you think of my analysis ?:thinking:
 
HuskyBrutha said:
I was afraid you would say that.:cry:

I have both the TE and the SMS.
A few years ago while trying to solve the problem, I swapped tanks (and I think dashes) from the TE (which has no problems ) to the SMS (the problem child with the reserve light problem) and the SMS tank (and dash) went on to the TE.
None of which solved the problem on the SMS and the reserve light remained off on the TE showing that the problem was not in the tanks or the dashes of either bike.
I concluded the problem was in the harness of the SMS.

Because the problem was still new on the SMS, if I turned the bars to left full lock the Reserve light would go out and would eventually go on as the bars were turned right .
Compared to the TE, the harness on the SMS is very tight as it goes around neck of the frame. Turning full right, really stretches the harness and full left releases that tension.
However now the light is on regardless of left or right full lock.

Also when the key is turned on the reserve light shines very bright. After the engine is started and while riding , the reserve light is dimmed a bit until the fuel level drops to reserve and then the light shines brightly again.

Based on the above and this thread, I have concluded that the W/Y wire is lightly touching to ground somewhere and that is providing it some -ve current to dimly light the reserve light.

What do you think of my analysis ?:thinking:
Click to expand...

Sounds logical. When I tested my issue I had the wire harness pulled away from the frame so I think my issue was different than yours (i.e. not a short to ground). The only upside to your problem is that once you do find the short, it's easy to fix. Lol.
 
Having decided I was too electronically challenged, I totally pussyed out and took the bike to my trusty KTM dealer who diagnosed the problem and fixed it exactly as in this thread http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/fuel-light-always-on.45295/ by stuartmcivor.

Interestingly the 68 ohm resistor (as in the wiring diagram) is in the main harness just fractionally ahead of the left side radiator and it is crimped to the brown wire from the ignition switch.
In my case the 68 ohm resistor had pulled out of the crimp, causing the light to go on, because the harness on my SM630 is shorter than on my TE630 and so the harness on the SM stretches tight around the neck on right turns.
The moment the brown wire was re connected, with solder this time, with the 68 ohm resistor the fuel light went out

As a side note: I have been researching this "always on fuel light" problem within this forum for some 5 years now and stuartmcivor's post from 2014 never showed up in my search results :excuseme: :cry: :thinking::banghead:
I found stuartmcivors 2014 post from a Google search.
 
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