FE/FC Looking for some FE501 Feedback

[bowser]

loosen the triple clamps, straighten it and re-tighten.

remove the little bolt on the stand that the spring catches on with the smaller bolt that should have came with your spares kit

 

[Big Timmy]

Yaa, slam it against that pole right there in the picture, like you would have to do against a rock in the field. It got twisted without lossening the triple clamps so it will go back. The triple clamps may have been too loose to begin with. If you do loosen the triples, don't overtighten them, torque to spec.
Or follow the above exercise.

 

[Fast1]

The torque spec is located right on the triples next to the where you tighten the fork tube.. Upper clamp requires more torque than lower.

My friend on his KTM 500 had the front wash out this last week and his looked just like yours. We loosened the triples in the field and right away determined what caused the fork twist. The torque on one fork was minimal (below spec).

 

[reveille]

Forgot to mention that I'm averaging 48 mpg so far. Sometimes 50 if riding open trails. As a reference I have the Euro map flashed on the ECU. Very happy with the range with just the stock tank. The areas I ride have plentiful gas stations spread out and 120 mile range is plenty for this guy. If I trash my radiator plastics I may consider doing a Acerbis 4.1 though. Loving the bike so far. The forks are tremendous too.

 

[Tinken]

Depends on how you ride it. We get about 27.5mpg with the EU map.

 

[reveille]

Oil Filter update..

I've used this oil filter for three oil cycles during the break in process and there is no deformation what so ever.
1st was one hour factory oil
2nd was 5 hours on 10w-50 semi syn
3rd was 6 hours on 20w-50 syn

Will now start using Castrol 10w-50 syn





It is becoming difficult to tell them apart

FYI. My PC racing filter looked like new after an oil change today. No signs of crushing. Its been in there for 1100 miles. 0w40 Mobil one. Oil comes out looking really good. Tbh I'm probably changing oil too frequently but I put 1150 miles on in a week. I changed the oil 3 times during that period. Its so easy to do on this bike so I don't mind. Plus a 5 quart jug of oil is $23 so its an easy proposition.

 

[Tinken]

We change ours every 300-500 miles, oil is cheaper than engine parts. Pistons alone are $500.
Also, I have been working on new maps for the 501, although currently my maps are built around our signature 501 engine. I will add a race map post when I have some to give out.

 

[reveille]

Forgot to mention that I lost the little plastic knob on the headlight push/pull switch a while back. It's not an item you can order and replace. The entire switch needs to be replaced or replicate the knob, which is what I'll try. I checked the KTM forums and it seems most get 1-2 rides out of them before they fall off. It's really not a huge issue since I keep my switch on 99% of the time but if I can find a suitable replacement knob it would be nice. JB weld or red locktite will go on the new one though. Just giving a heads up.

 

[Fast1]

For $45 u can obtain the sicass switch for the left side of the bar which controls the headlight (3options - high and low beam or running light) horn button and blinker switch. Not sure if u have blinkers but the other two functions might be beneficial. Also highway dirt bike sells some nice switch gear that might solve your problem.

 

[reveille]

Well the switch works just fine as is although a bit difficult to grab a hold of to operate. I find that leaving it in the on or up position is where it stays 99% of the time. No need to replace it though, just need a knob of some kind. I am considering everything from a spark plug tip to electrical wire nuts to kitchen cabinet knobs. Maybe a cool skull knob or anything that screws on will be fine. I don't run turn signals since they aren't required here plus I find they don't stay on the bike long, especially the rear ones. I tried to keep turn signals on my 310 but gave up after a few months.

 

[Motosportz]

Pistons alone are $500.

WTF?

 

[Fast1]

What about rings and wrist pin bushing? I'm sure those would be required before the actual piston replacement.

 

[Tinken]

What about rings and wrist pin bushing? I'm sure those would be required before the actual piston replacement.

They all get replaced when the piston makes contact with the cylinder wall. Happens a lot with this engine, mostly during break in and holding the engine wide open.

 

[Fast1]

They all get replaced when the piston makes contact with the cylinder wall. Happens a lot with this engine, mostly during break in and holding the engine wide open.

In that case you would most likely need a cylinder too! Got any photos of damaged pistons from a strong right hand break in?

 

[Tinken]

Haha, Ty blew it up twice. I think we still have the two pistons, but we might of sent back to KTM. We fix the cylinders. I will grab some pics for you when I get back to the shop next week.

 

[robertaccio]

Its good to have a guy (Ty) capable of destructive cause and analysis on a machine that 99% of even good High level ammie riders will not be able to approach. If it holds together for Ty and Justin in V2R you can bank on the thing never failing for anything you or I do****************************************

 

[Fast1]

Its good to have a guy (Ty) capable of destructive cause and analysis on a machine that 99% of even good High level ammie riders will not be able to approach. If it holds together for Ty and Justin in V2R you can bank on the thing never failing for anything you or I do

You do know you can stick a piston by just running 25 mph in 1st gear near the rev limiter for a few hours especially with a poor air filter seal allowing all kinds of dirt intrusion.. now add a lean fuel map, too much timing advance, poor fuel quality and kaboom! Then there is the oil filter collapsing issue.. all of which can turn a well running engine into a ticking time bomb.

 

[reveille]

Oh I'm sure I can destroy an engine if I try hard enough. 1250 miles and 39 hours so far and all good. Here's to another 5k of trouble free miles

 

[LandofMotards]

You do know you can stick a piston by just running 25 mph in 1st gear near the rev limiter for a few hours especially with a poor air filter seal allowing all kinds of dirt intrusion.. now add a lean fuel map, too much timing advance, poor fuel quality and kaboom! Then there is the oil filter collapsing issue.. all of which can turn a well running engine into a ticking time bomb.

I'm sure everyone's well aware of what you can do to an engine acting like a moron. Not many of us know what we can do to an engine riding like Ty Davis

 

[Cosmokenney]

Well the switch works just fine as is although a bit difficult to grab a hold of to operate. I find that leaving it in the on or up position is where it stays 99% of the time. No need to replace it though, just need a knob of some kind. I am considering everything from a spark plug tip to electrical wire nuts to kitchen cabinet knobs. Maybe a cool skull knob or anything that screws on will be fine. I don't run turn signals since they aren't required here plus I find they don't stay on the bike long, especially the rear ones. I tried to keep turn signals on my 310 but gave up after a few months.

Use JB Weld SteelStick to form a knob in-place. When it's dry, sand it smooth and paint it gloss black or plasti-dip it.