• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Austria - About 2014 & Newer
     FE = 4st Enduro & FC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

FE/FC Looking for some FE501 Feedback

reveille said:
Forgot to mention that I lost the little plastic knob on the headlight push/pull switch a while back. It's not an item you can order and replace. The entire switch needs to be replaced or replicate the knob, which is what I'll try. I checked the KTM forums and it seems most get 1-2 rides out of them before they fall off. It's really not a huge issue since I keep my switch on 99% of the time but if I can find a suitable replacement knob it would be nice. JB weld or red locktite will go on the new one though. Just giving a heads up.
Click to expand...



Wonder if you could purchase a knob that has been removed from one of the Ty Davis race bikes?
 
I found a pull switch at Advanced Auto for $2.50 and the knob from it fits. It's a 8/32" thread so any nut or knob will fit that you have access too. I tried finding a skull or something interesting but ended up with just a plain knob. Even thought of something for electric guitars since there is a good selection of those.
 
Is the last couple year models of the Husaberg fe 501 other than PDS pretty much the same bike as the Husqvarna FE 501?
 
Hi all its been a while.. but ive just ordered my new 2015 fe 450. i see theres a lot of talk about stainless steel oil filters, can anyone tell me which pc racing stainless steel oil filter will work is it a PC155 or 157. Im picking up my bike in the second week of november and im just trying to get everything in place.
 
Been lurking on this pretty awesome thread mostly because I've been thinking of selling my totally dialed '10 KTM 450 XC-W (brought up to 518cc) in favor of a new 501 and this thread is bringing to light a few things.

1) I burned down an oil filter over the weekend to get to the guts and came across this - steel reinforced. It's super stout - collapsing this would be near impossible. I'm sorta surprised by the oil filter collapsing issue - could it be a design flaw in the oil filter?
i-F5crsVc-XL.jpg


2) On my 10 I get some top end pinging / noise that is normal drivetrain noise. Both it and my old RFS bike both made this noise especially when the oil is spent. There is a rumor going around that lighter weight oils cause it. I've been running rotella and with my bike I keep the sumps separate so I run 5W-40 on the trans side and all sorts of variants from 0W-40 and 15W-50 Mobil 1 on the engine side. No matter what that boise just won't go away...

3) How do you guys feel these new bikes are turning once you get them dialed? My bike is within 90-95% of what I need and it's f'g stellar for open desert. I used to run 18mm offset on the forks on my old RFS and this was perfect, 20mm was twitchy. I run 20mm offset on this and it's perfect, at 18mm it felt like a slug...

mostly ride pretty high speed open 2 track and some single track in the desert, but also ride all sorts of stuff. Lots and lots of miles overall...



thoughts?
 
dieslcruisrhead said:
Been lurking on this pretty awesome thread mostly because I've been thinking of selling my totally dialed '10 KTM 450 XC-W (brought up to 518cc) in favor of a new 501 and this thread is bringing to light a few things.

1) I burned down an oil filter over the weekend to get to the guts and came across this - steel reinforced. It's super stout - collapsing this would be near impossible. I'm sorta surprised by the oil filter collapsing issue - could it be a design flaw in the oil filter?
Click to expand...


Paper/fiber oil filter collapsing happens to both 40 and 50W oils, even collapsed a SS filter with 50W oil. I advised Husqvarna factory team to switch to SS filters & 40W oil which they did.

dieslcruisrhead said:
2) On my 10 I get some top end pinging / noise that is normal drivetrain noise. Both it and my old RFS bike both made this noise especially when the oil is spent. There is a rumor going around that lighter weight oils cause it. I've been running rotella and with my bike I keep the sumps separate so I run 5W-40 on the trans side and all sorts of variants from 0W-40 and 15W-50 Mobil 1 on the engine side. No matter what that boise just won't go away...
Click to expand...


That is only a rumor. I run both an RFS 525 race bike and the new 450&501s, all run M1 0W40 with SS filters. Higher protection, especially when racing with the lower viscosities. Heavy viscosity reduces your flow and protection.
 
oneal said:
Hi all its been a while.. but ive just ordered my new 2015 fe 450. i see theres a lot of talk about stainless steel oil filters, can anyone tell me which pc racing stainless steel oil filter will work is it a PC155 or 157. Im picking up my bike in the second week of november and im just trying to get everything in place.
Click to expand...

Oneal did you find out was the number was? i looked on the PC racing website...it doesn't have a particular listing for 2014+ huskies....
 
I have it on my 2014 and yes I had to have it unlocked, then flashed to the euro mapping. You will need to do this as well. If you have an S model, it may not even be possible to unlock the ECU due to emissions crap.
 
reveille said:
I have it on my 2014 and yes I had to have it unlocked, then flashed to the euro mapping. You will need to do this as well. If you have an S model, it may not even be possible to unlock the ECU due to emissions crap.
Click to expand...

Ok thanks. Not the "s" model. Dealer already sold that one.
 
I'd like to know about service intervals and how practical it would be to put a lot of highway miles on a 501.
 
You cannot modify the ecu on a 501s easily. It can be done, but you are plugged into KTM's computer and if they see you modify out of spec, they cut you off and pull your license. I much better option is to see if a 501 ecu will fit in a 501s socket. If the answer is no, check to see how much a FC450 ecu and harness is, because it can be fully modded and have up to 10 maps loaded.
 
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