• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

lighting drama

suprize

suprize

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Due to an administrative error, i let my historic rego run out:mad:. new laws require a full roadworthy test for historic reg. my bike has the motosplat and 1 yellow wire and i need to get some lights happening. i have a simple wiring loom and it has worked in the past but i do globes all the time. i had to fit a an acerbis elba light after smashing the original into bits and its stopped working all ready. do i need to put a regulator or some other widget into the system? is there an XC style lighting diagram somewhere? ( i will do a search as i have seem various threads on wiring) thanks for any assistance, this has been the only reccurring nightmare with this bike, everything else just works. cheers
 
To save time/money/energy, speak to someone who has already been through getting a vintage

bike regoed in your state.

The things I needed,

A readable compliance plate.
DOT tyres
Chain guard
rear facing red reflector
braided brake hoses must have DOT 1401 visible/readable.
front and rear brake light switches.
horn
headlight, high and low beam
tail light, stop and tail light lamps
2 mirrors
repacked muffler, I made a bolt in/removable baffle to make sure I passed inspection.

That's all I can think of at the moment.

:)
 
this is a california bike imported to aus, before the rwc requirements, the club inspector signed it off but i now have no compliance plate so rec reg is my only answer and i need a working head and tailight and working brake light (either front or back) the bike has had these working but no regulater sees bulbs die everytime i rev it out so i need to sort that and it also needs an electric horn. i dont think the system will power the lights and a horn so i might need to slip a battery powered horn in to the bike somewhere.
 
Horn works fine on my 250 with all the lights going at the same time with a SEM
I find the tail light dies from vibrations, i must change it every other ride
 
suprize said:
this is a california bike imported to aus, before the rwc requirements, the club inspector signed it off but i now have no compliance plate so rec reg is my only answer and i need a working head and tailight and working brake light (either front or back) the bike has had these working but no regulater sees bulbs die everytime i rev it out so i need to sort that and it also needs an electric horn. i dont think the system will power the lights and a horn so i might need to slip a battery powered horn in to the bike somewhere.
Click to expand...

Try a LED taillight bulb (yes, even with AC). they handle variations in voltage fairly well. LED headlights sometimes go 9-28volts dc too.

there are cheap regulator/rectifers available, maybe add a medium capacitor too. or not.
 
= you have MOTOPLAT 6 volts
1 cable yellow !35 W ! (USA)
regulator is not necessery !

= MOTOPLAT 6 volts Euro 5 cables for
WR 3 for lights !(yellow/green/red)

not regulator


=MOTOPLAT (5 cables )
or SEM(70 W x 2 ) 12 volts
with regulator necessery !
 
You can use 12V bulbs with the 6 volt Mini 6 and create a circuit to charge a small dry cell battery to support the requirements for features that must work with engine off.
 
Many early mopeds used an electric horn that is designed for AC power.

Yamaha 6v one-wire AC regulators used on the early enduros will stop the bulbs blowing with revs. Those same mopeds used a 3 wire AC regulator that also works good.
 
I had issues with my old Motoplat in the 78 390WR. I ran a 6v 35/35 headlight bulb. The 5w tail bulb worked, but the 21w brake light would not. I had to fit a regulator to stop the headlight blowing at WOT. The AC horn would not function at all. I am told the AC horns take more current to run than a DC one. To pass uk "mot" test for the road I ended up fitting a small R/C car battery (12v) on top of the airbox. This ran a LED stop and tail and a DC horn. In the 5years I used this system I only charged the R/C car battery twice.
Finally the old Motoplat died in the middle of an enduro, and that was that. I fitted a power dynamo system from Germany using a reg/rec to give me DC. All my lights and horn run from this. It is also has about an 80w output. Not that I ride it at night, but the headlight is brilliant. It also starts easily.
 
been happy the motosplat from a reliability point of view, bike starts and runs nicely just getting the lights on is an issue. im not "supposed" to run a total loss system but i rekon i can sneak a battery and horn into the system as long as i dont press it until the motor is running..:lol:
 
with LEDs all around you could run a total loss system for a week or two, including turn sigs. Go easy using the horn or maybe try some piezo-electric horn
 
Go on Evilbay and grab a regulator rectifier for an outboard, I have one on my 85 400 that runs an LED headlight and incandescent tail light.
I think I paid $22AUD each for them.
Tony.
 
Hi Suprize,
I just run 8 AA batteries in a waterproof pack and a single LED headlight and single LED taillight and brakelight and a switch and then remove battery pack after each event.
I tried the KDX lighting circuit but its buggered. Small bike windings in geelong fixes them but ........

You can pick up these chinese retro push bike LED lights and the reflector and LED housing fits directly into/over the elba housing on my 83' husky, with some minor shaping with a stanley knife.

mark
 
im thinking i will get a rectifier and run the lights (head and tail) of the splat and add a battery and run the horn and brake light. that will get me over the line. i need a new battery for the kato so i might just use that to get the plate then im away.
 
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