• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Just bought 2 new TE310R's--now what?

Old and Slow said:
Because chain wear thru guide? What'll they rev to Mike? Will i be able to Jump trails @ 60 to 65 with a 50? I glanced at the TXC 310 on the showroom floor when i picked mine up and saw a 50 on it, so was thinking I'd start their but your post says high r's @ 60mph. I love grunt and not a fan of flameouts. Will most likely start with the 50... Will see once i get her loosened up and barkin.
Click to expand...

My personal opinion is if you want something for 60-65 on the highway, you have the wrong bike. These things are built for quick acceleration bursts up to 45 or 50 MPH. Also (my opinion again) with the close ratio transmission you lose too much on the bottom end when you start decreasing rear sprocket diameter. For dirt/trail use, I'm thinking a 52-tooth sprocket might be optimal, and a 49 or 50 tooth a good compromise for trail/fire road use.
 
My 310R started running crappy like it was missing now its dead....trying to link with the workshop manuel.Stuck in the mountains with a non-running bran-new bike. Have about 40 miles on it.
 
Ok appointment with "Town & Country" in NJ on the way home friday.They said it sounds like the keyway. I'll have them do the power up and re-gear while i'm there.In the meantime i'll just ride the restricted one,it runs flawless, if a little underpowered and over-geared. They seems very helpful and the mechanic rides the same bike,so i'm hopeful.
 
beck said:
FWIW.

I have a 2013 TE310R and hated it at first, have the same experience as you, would not stay running, poor performance, pop/die on deceleration. The more I rode it the better the bike behaved. I did the same simple mods with no change to the map yet (pulled the smog, and capped the small intake) I also changed the rear sprocket from the stock 40T to a 50T, much better acceleration as expected.

I am now at @ 400KM (I still have not found out how to switch to Miles...)

On a recent ride in Hatfield McCoy trails, we did have an issue with starting after the bike was "washed". I got water in the cylinder and it would not start, nothing. We had to pull the plug, which is a serious PIA, no thought into trailside work for this bike. What I learned from this was to make sure that there is a good amount of grease to waterproof the electrical system (all wires, and plug).

On this trip I also learned not to trust the dealer to finish and torque bolts on assembly, as some of my case bolts were loose after a days ride in the rough terrain. After the mornings TLC the bike has never run better.

Long story short, be patient, the bike will get better.
Click to expand...

I just noticed this.

It takes three hands to do this.

With the bike off and the dash all shut off,
push and hold the button on the dash,
start the bike and continue to hold the button down,
when the dash comes on it will start to blink between KM and MPH,
let off of the button and then when it blinks to MPH, push the button.
 
He said the starter gear etc...is out of stock for the foreseeable future.Im driving down friday AM and I will ask for eric. I will try the speedo fix on the 1 running bike thank you.
 
Ok Eric @ Town & Country was quite helpful.I left the non-runner there. The other,he powered up and I brought home. What a difference!! It went from a fat slow, stalling turd to a light weight rocketship. It's hard to hold the wheel down in the first 3 gears on the street. This shit should be illegal......o right LOL.
Throttle response is way better,revs freely and does not stall anymore. Bravo to the x-lite and red head. Thanks all, I will keep you posted on the other 310R should know something tomorrow.
 
NYCMX said:
I took the red intake restrictor out today to see how it would run. It is way faster,still not great ,but at least it wheelies. Popping on decel tells me its lean.Heading to the mountains tomorrow for a long weekend of light trail riding with the kids. It now has 23.....KMs on it.I didnt figure out how to change the speedo to mph yet.Anybody?
Click to expand...

How do you take the red Velocity stack out? I have the one with the many small holes in it.
 
Town & Country did a great job.It was the Keyway,covered under warrenty. Bought a 12 front sprocket while I was there,not installed yet.
Both 310R's run great, no issues. Working on finishing breakin them in.
I'm considering a Terra to fill a small empty spot in the garage.
 
Rockman said:
How do you take the red Velocity stack out? I have the one with the many small holes in it.
Click to expand...
Take out your aircleaner and screen and kinda pull it straight out. BTW how can you see that it has many small holes without pulling it out??
 
Mike-AK said:
My personal opinion is if you want something for 60-65 on the highway, you have the wrong bike. These things are built for quick acceleration bursts up to 45 or 50 MPH. Also (my opinion again) with the close ratio transmission you lose too much on the bottom end when you start decreasing rear sprocket diameter. For dirt/trail use, I'm thinking a 52-tooth sprocket might be optimal, and a 49 or 50 tooth a good compromise for trail/fire road use.
Click to expand...

It's hard to accelerate quick when you are switching gears every couple seconds ;)
 
NYCMX said:
Take out your aircleaner and screen and kinda pull it straight out. BTW how can you see that it has many small holes without pulling it out??
Click to expand...
I stuck my camera in the airbox and took a picture. Just pull straight out and nothing will break? Thanks.
 
SoCalHuskyRider said:
The 2013 TE310 does not require much in order for it to be running like the TXC but note that this is the off road setup.

1. Removed the restrictive air filter cage and replace it with one from the TXC.
2. Removed the mesh backfire screen from the air filter cage.
3. Removed the red velocity stack (Bored out the restricted end of the velocity stack but it still ran better without it).
4. Had the ECU re-flashed with the "Race" settings. Note: according to my dealer there are 3 setting for the 2013 model. Standard, Race, Race with modified exhaust.
5. Removed the canister and blocked off the fitting on the intake manifold.
6. O2 sensor is still in place and attached. The race map ignores it. You can remove it if you wish.
7. Removed the CAT from the exhaust. It's located between the silencer and the head pipe.
8. No throttle adjustments have been necessary. I don't believe that this year had a throttle restrictor.

Good luck!
Click to expand...

Thanks SoCalHuskyRider
So without re-flashing the ECU did all of your changes make any difference in the performance? Did the dealer charge to re-flash the ECU?
 
No charge for the re-flash. Each change made a small improvement but the ECU re-flash was the single biggest improvement. I have since removed the catalytic converter and this resulted in a little cleaner pull off the bottom.
 
Ok Today I finally have 100 miles on the odo. Did the first oil/filter change. Of course I stripped the drain bolt, but whatever it's done. I also changed the front pads to Dunlopad to cure the squeeks. I guess I'll save the Brembo pads for an emergency. Dunlopads seem to work better with no squeeks.
The bike runs great,although it did stall twice in 30 or so miles. Both times while going slow and seemed reluctant to start for a sec. Or am I just paranoid from reading on here.
Anyway I can't wait to put the 12 tooth sprocket on the front and I'm having a blast with this bike. I think it will be great fun ripping around Manhattan.
 
SoCalHuskyRider said:
No charge for the re-flash. Each change made a small improvement but the ECU re-flash was the single biggest improvement. I have since removed the catalytic converter and this resulted in a little cleaner pull off the bottom.
Click to expand...


Good to hear. I did all the mods but the ECU. Bike sounds great but I am afraid to ride it because it might be too lean. My dealer refuses to re-flash the ECU. Your in socal. Who did your ECU?
 
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