• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

All 2st Jetting Chat - Need Help? Post Your Questions Here

Yes, I say you have a rich spot in your jetting. Sorry if you don't want to believe it. Just because you don't have carbon buildup on your piston doesn't mean you don't have a pipe full of carbon and oil spooge. My 2 strokes don't spooge. If they do, I adjust. Like I said, that doesn't mean your are off on your main jet or even your needle or needle jet but your pilot , A/S, or the slide could be off. If your spooge is minimal , I wouldn't worry about it too much but if it is literally dripping onto your swingarm or drooling out the end of the pipe, I suggest you make an adjustment. But if you are just a MXer then I wouldn't worry about it too much as MXers are rarely on the pilot anyway. That is why so many bikes come jetted too rich down low. Some think too rich a pilot helps throttle response but I think having it jetted correctly helps more.
 
Hi all, I'm a bit new to the science of Jetting, but my 2004 WR125 with the TMX carby is blubbering badly with the throttle held steady in most positions, unless your on WOT or accelerating hard. With lower revs it bogs a little. I intend on using the bike for street and forest riding, so part throttle and steady throttle positions will be most important.

Main jet is a 400, I don't have the pilot jet size or needle yet, but after a really quick look at the carb yesterday the needle is in the middle clip position. I ride at <500ft elev and temps are usually 5-20 C.

Maybe if someone could explain the basic theory so I can understand whats happening and why, I could play around with settings...
 
Check your float level about part of the bogging but I think you are running slightly rich across the board.
 
Yeah it is rich. Its fine flat out though!

Which way on the clip positions is leaner. I'm on the centre (3rd) clip pos now, so do I need to go towards the point of the needle or away?

I'm just guessing, but maybe the pilot jet is too big its a 35. But I'll change the clip pos and see how that goes. I'm just sitting at my desk in work, with my carb in front of me!:D
 
Yeah it is rich. Its fine flat out though!

Which way on the clip positions is leaner. I'm on the centre (3rd) clip pos now, so do I need to go towards the point of the needle or away?

I'm just guessing, but maybe the pilot jet is too big its a 35. But I'll change the clip pos and see how that goes. I'm just sitting at my desk in work, with my carb in front of me!:D

Dropping the needle which is raising the clip is leaner
 
Thanks for the info man!
Heading to the sierra's tomorrow and had no idea what jets I should bring for 7-10k'. At least I got a ballpark idea now.
 
Cheers, thats what I figured. Dropping the needle into the needle Jet restricts the fuel, leaning it out...

Its made a nice difference, accelerating and WOT its perfect.

I put markings on the throttle cable housing and the hand grip to see exactly what throttle position I was using, as recomended in another post. The problem is up to 1/4 throttle when riding steady speeds. So now as I suspected I'd like to try a smaller pilot jet. I must also check the plug colour with a fresh plug to see what to WOT mix is like...
 
Yes, you,re right. We are lean! if i would ride on higher elevation i would use the CEM needle for gnarly stuff and EEM for more high power and WOT runs. Those needles are slightly leaner at the base diameter and i have been using and evaluated both. The EEM needle is guite much tapered and fat and works good for high power. I used it for iceracing for example, but now i have a ported Honda CR 500 for that.

Johnny
I'm going to try the CEM if I need to go leaner for altitude. Do you remember where you clipped it to go slightly leaner than the red in notch #1?
 
I have 06 model WR250, and having trouble when starting hot, when cold it starts good.
Also it's spilling fuel when leaned a bit to one side.

I'm living in the Netherlands at around 250meter (850feet) and using it around 10C to 25C degree (Celsius that is).

I have a HGS exhaust curve on it and stock muffler.
The jetting is as follow (TMX); 3,0 slide, clip in the middle (third), needle 6DJ8-60, main 420 and pilot 32,5.

I'm thinking the float level isn't correct, and I've read it should be around 18 to 22 mm (is that correct), als how do I measure that, and more important how do I correct it.

Regards, Bart
 
I'm going to try the CEM if I need to go leaner for altitude. Do you remember where you clipped it to go slightly leaner than the red in notch #1?
I'm going to try the CEM if I need to go leaner for altitude. Do you remember where you clipped it to go slightly leaner than the red in notch #1?
it depends on temp and how high you go, but start at the 2nd clip from top and see if you get it smooth and clean with that, and after that i would try first clip from top just to evaluate and feel if you get any bog by that.

Regards Johnny
 
I have 06 model WR250, and having trouble when starting hot, when cold it starts good.
Also it's spilling fuel when leaned a bit to one side.

I'm living in the Netherlands at around 250meter (850feet) and using it around 10C to 25C degree (Celsius that is).

I have a HGS exhaust curve on it and stock muffler.
The jetting is as follow (TMX); 3,0 slide, clip in the middle (third), needle 6DJ8-60, main 420 and pilot 32,5.

I'm thinking the float level isn't correct, and I've read it should be around 18 to 22 mm (is that correct), als how do I measure that, and more important how do I correct it.

Regards, Bart

Look Here:

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/2011-wr150-owner-keeping-mikuni-38mm-carb.19378/page-4
 
it depends on temp and how high you go, but start at the 2nd clip from top and see if you get it smooth and clean with that, and after that i would try first clip from top just to evaluate and feel if you get any bog by that.

Regards Johnny

+1
I just dropped my needle to 2nd clip from the top today before I rode (09 WR250) it really brought the bottom end around, crisp and clean and almost impossible to stall in the tight stuff and on logs and such. I only got to ride for about an hour but I've been smiling all day.:)
 
I have a 37.5 which works great, I'm at sealevel to 1000' the 40 was good but not really crisp. I'm about 1.75 turns out with the 37.5.
 
Wond
+1
I just dropped my needle to 2nd clip from the top today before I rode (09 WR250) it really brought the bottom end around, crisp and clean and almost impossible to stall in the tight stuff and on logs and such. I only got to ride for about an hour but I've been smiling all day.:)

Wonderful! Glad it helped! Try to go one notch leaner and compare the character. If it bogs when you give throttle go down to 2nd again.

Johnny
 
Back when I was drag racing cars there were guys that racers could send their carburetors to and get them flowed and modified to work better. Does anyone have recommendations for someone to do this to a Mikuni or a Keihin?
 
Back when I was drag racing cars there were guys that racers could send their carburetors to and get them flowed and modified to work better. Does anyone have recommendations for someone to do this to a Mikuni or a Keihin?

RB Designs (Ron Black) does carb mods, along with alot of other things. I had him work on the carb on my WR and TE. He does a divider plate similar to the PowerPlus only better.
http://www.rb-designs.com/
 
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