• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

All 2st Jetting Chat - Need Help? Post Your Questions Here

LoL@Johnny...read your own posts and l'm sure you know your way around carbs****************************************:p

PS. Love to help you but l don't have much experience with Mikuni's.
 
Not sure what the actual fuel level is supposed to be. I lowered my float 3 times. Even the stock TMXX was set too high and both 36mm and 38mm Keihin PWK a/s.
 
I also noticed early in the enduro that on another hill that I had to slip the clutch and the engine just didn't want to respond and increase in power or speed when under a load.
 
LoL@Johnny...read your own posts and l'm sure you know your way around carbs:p

PS. Love to help you but l don't have much experience with Mikuni's.
Yes, i know jetting, but thought i would take the easy way and see what mods is required. I heard about exhaustports for example=). It feels weak, but it,s a 125, i know. I,ve been riding my ported Honda CR 500 for a while, so i guess that could be the cause of "feeling the weakness" too=)!

Johnny
 
It had a major bog before I lowered float level and it would overflow at anything more than a side stand angle. I was only getting 14mpg. Now I get 21mpg.

If you move your clip one move and don't like it. Try 1/2 clip shim and see what happens?
 
Yes, i know jetting, but thought i would take the easy way and see what mods is required. I heard about exhaustports for example=). It feels weak, but it,s a 125, i know. I,ve been riding my ported Honda CR 500 for a while, so i guess that could be the cause of "feeling the weakness" too=)!

Johnny
Johnny...just don't get too use to the Wr125 or else you'll jump on the 500 and be the first man to do a double backflip standing still:thumbsup:
 
Johnny...just don't get too use to the Wr125 or else you'll jump on the 500 and be the first man to do a double backflip standing still:thumbsup:
Aahahaa! Yes, that,s a risk for sure! The 500 is something you have to respect. Wheelies in 3rd gear at 55mph on just throttle with 14/38 gearing=). I will make a dynorun on the 500 in the future, and then i can post the graph.
 
Not sure what the actual fuel level is supposed to be. I lowered my float 3 times. Even the stock TMXX was set too high and both 36mm and 38mm Keihin PWK a/s.

Mine is running perfectly through the entire range but the fuel mileage is suspect. I'm keeping track of the next tank or two to see what it actually is before I cry wolf. I kept lowering my level until it started running out of fuel at sustained wide open throttle in 5th, then I went back up with the level so that just before the peg touches the carb pees on the ground. The woods I ride on my property is 80% 1st gear logs rocks and bark scraping jungle with a few short bursts in 2nd and 3rd so maybe I'm asking too much for fuel economy. (I've been trying to get a trials ride organized as it suites that use better and may help ride in some new trails.)
 
2-stroke 09 and other years possibe issue or recommendation, its related to the standard fuel tap and inners(gauze/pipework),basically if your doing any jetting adjustments with this tap RUN IT ON RESERVE, even in an event, as the diameter of fuel pipe feed on 'OPEN' is small and restricting, it needs to be at least twice the diameter+, to allow a decent constant pressure on the float bowl valve, i have finally nailed this issue, and the bike is solid revving everywhere, and no there WAS no Shit anywhere in the feed, its a simple design issue especially with rev hungry large jetted 125's.................. and they leak when turning from open to reserve vice versa sometimes, this one of mine is new, they are poor and really need SOMEONE to make an after market tap setup of larger bore and better quality or perhaps some other manufacturers tap might bolt straight in!

It's funny that you should post this because last week I was working on jetting and my 09 WR250 acted like it was running out of fuel so I turned it to reserve and finished riding later when I got back to the house I discovered that it still ha 1/2 tank of fuel. This matches your description exactly.

Have you looked to see if you can drill the spout out a little more?
 
CR 500.png

Sending a pic of the Honda 500=). Gixxer, so what you are saying is that the WR 125 also could be restricted in the fueltap? Is that right or am i just bad at reading?

Johnny
 
I don't think it is the petcock. Mine is screw type. Anyway if I want to run the bike out of fuel for storage it will run for several minutes once petcock is turned off.
 
Rode a H/S this weekend. My power / jetting problems fixed. Lowered clip on needle one slot to raise the needle to the #3 position. No more flat power. The H/S this weekend had a LOT of long uphills. I am still wondering how the promoter got more up hill climbs than down hills in a 11 mile course. LOL. My WR150 pulled all the hills with ease. Yes, my main jet stayed a 172. Bike ran great. I rode terrible. But, never fell. Course was slippery due to all the rain before and during the event. The tropical storm brought in a lot of bad weather.​
 
Interesting, the whole setup is gravity feed so you really have to measure the flow rate when the tap on 'ON' vs 'Reserve' in order to determine whether you have an issue that the 'ON' level of the petcock remembering, that the length of the tube of the 'ON' position of the petcock determines the point where you will need to manual switch to the 'Reserve' which operates that the bottom of the tank.
Not saying that you are wrong but I would have thought that these tubes are the same diameter..have you experimented taking the gauze off?
 
Rode a H/S this weekend. My power / jetting problems fixed. Lowered clip on needle one slot to raise the needle to the #3 position. No more flat power. The H/S this weekend had a LOT of long uphills. I am still wondering how the promoter got more up hill climbs than down hills in a 11 mile course. LOL. My WR150 pulled all the hills with ease. Yes, my main jet stayed a 172. Bike ran great. I rode terrible. But, never fell. Course was slippery due to all the rain before and during the event. The tropical storm brought in a lot of bad weather.​
I've been kind of folowing this to see how it came out. Glad you got it fixed.
 
2011 wr300.

first got the bike it would cover the rear of the bike in oil and was a pain to wash, took it back for its first service and told them i think it was running a bit rich (all i wanted was the bike not too spit so much oil) my 99 rmx 250 never spat oil. They changed the air screw or air/fuel mixture screw (im not good with jetting very new to this). Since the change it has killed the performance doesnt have a hit or a power sling shotting you forward basicaly tamed it down and killed the fun factor.... so everything is still stock all they did was touch that one thing and it made a big diffrence. Not a wild front wheel lifting machine anymore.... so any advice before i try and do it myself? have the bike running? quater turns, half turns, full turns? how much diffrence does this adjustmeant really make?
a 300 two stroke should go harder then what it is atm...
 
My 2010 WR300 would hardly even run with the stock jetting. I am at sea level and I changed my jetting to gay needle (it actually says the on the side of the needle) 2nd slot down from the top, 40 pilot, 440 main, and air screw 2 1/4 turns out. I'm not sure if your bike comes with an extra needle and jets from the factory, but the bikes sold in the states do. Also, I run Dumonde Tech oil mixed at 50:1. You will need to pull the fuel tank, remove the rear brake reservoir to move it over, loosen the jam nut on the top of the carb where the throttle cable attaches, loosen both clamps on either side of the carb and then you can turn the carb enough to get to the needle through the top (two screws hold the top, and an 8mm holds the needle in the slide), the main and the pilot are on the bottom (17mm wrench to take out the plug on the bottom). This will get you in the ball park at sea level.
 
Back
Top