• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Help! Debris found in my engine - 610/630 clutch issues

tap tap tap... :)

The secret to it is backing the head, and being good enough with a hammer to have the tip of the ballpeen hit where you want it to. It's more like hammering than tapping. Wifey came out to the shop to see what the hell was going on.

Some of the guys have used an airhammer. Anyway, the idea is that you beat down and roll over the end 'till it cinches up tight. It's more of a feel. Once you get it you got it...really pretty easy. Steel is definitely a lot tougher than brass or bronze. I once built a clinker planked skiff that had the plank lands riveted together with copper rivets. On that you could hear when they were getting tight.
 
I am happy that I just ordered the Indy upgraded spring cup washers. My 630 is pushing 10k miles. I will be ordering the bronze bushing from MotoXotica for good measure. I plan to take pics of what I find. I have not ridden it as hard as I have my 510, but it has been ridden hard. The 630 is such a good bike I want to keep it around as long as I can. I don't think there is a better DS bike available, and yes I have rode an orange 690 off road. :cheers:
 
Just replaced the clutch actuator arm on my one 610TE than now has just over 42,000 km on ----checked the springs and washers --still in great condition ????

Think I have been lucky with this bike never a days issue -- but must say I drop the engine oil every 2,500 km's sometimes 1,000km depending on the riding I have been doing. and do the oil filter every 5,000km
 
Just make sure none of the little spring cup washers aren't getting thin. I haven't heard of any that weren't. If they get too thin they come apart and go into your motor. Not pretty. For the $85 to do them it's worth it for prevention.
I put it off and off and off...finally did it and it was way easier than I thought it would be and way worth it. The Indy washers look 'indy-car' grade compared to what came out of there. (see what I just did there. :D )
 
Luckily I have a new complete clutch unit hub and all that I got a few years ago --so when the day comes I will pull it--fit the new one and re-build the old one as a spare :)
 
This is what mine looked like at 9,7xx miles. washers were thin and worn. You can see that the springs were banging around by the chew marks on the gear side of the hub. I am glad I got it fixed with the Indy spring cup washers. I took the clutch to a local shop and he drilled out the rivets and reassembled with a 20 ton press. I tapped the spring inward towards the clutch housing/away from the gear plate before reassembly in the bike. I am happy with the results. I have another set of Indy washers on hand for the other 630 fix I have to do.

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Where does everyone get there rivets , are they a husky specific size only available from dealers - last time i rivets sent from halls usa to oz but exchsnge rate was better then ..
 
Stujam said:
Where does everyone get there rivets , are they a husky specific size only available from dealers - last time i rivets sent from halls usa to oz but exchsnge rate was better then ..
Click to expand...

I got the rivets from Halls as well.
 
Just heard from Indy Unlimited regarding the cup washers:

"Sorry no longer have any available. No plans to make another batch of 10,000."
 
KLOC said:
Just heard from Indy Unlimited regarding the cup washers:

"Sorry no longer have any available. No plans to make another batch of 10,000."
Click to expand...
Times and people change. He helped a lot of peeps though.
The real fix is a cush hub though.
 
Well WTF now? I just spent all this time reading this thread after getting referred here from my wonky clutch engagement thread. I was all set to just order this kit and get started on it in the fall/winter. Assuming that mine are at least partially worn bringing them to my machinist to reproduce would be asinine. Does anyone know the true dimensions of these washers/have a diagram? I love riding this bike but honestly I'm pretty close to going back to the *just put gas in it and change the oil* Japanese route. Damn thing is almost as high maintenance as my wife****************************************
 
Spice Weasel quoted these dimension for the spring cup washers:

I got my spring seats made by Bespoke Bits Click for link from tool steel. They were a great company to deal with.
These are the dimensions i got mine made to.
16mm O/D, 8mm O/D spigot x 4mm long, total length of seat 7mm
Just to be clear, small part (spigot) that goes inside the spring - 4mm long
Wide part that spring seats on - 3mm thick
Click to expand...
 
FasYankee said:
Well WTF now? I just spent all this time reading this thread after getting referred here from my wonky clutch engagement thread. I was all set to just order this kit and get started on it in the fall/winter. Assuming that mine are at least partially worn bringing them to my machinist to reproduce would be asinine. Does anyone know the true dimensions of these washers/have a diagram? I love riding this bike but honestly I'm pretty close to going back to the *just put gas in it and change the oil* Japanese route. Damn thing is almost as high maintenance as my wife
Click to expand...

Jap sgls , katos -- they all have week points somewhere that need attention. .once you sort these issues you should be sweet .. My mates that maintain their bike dont have dramas - my mates that are crap at maintenance have dramas . I have done a fair bit of saddle time in 610 and now 630 and i have never been left stranded .

Pull your clutch out and check the washers ( they may need changing or may be ok for a while ) but i reckon what you describe is likely more the bushing the hub sits on is worn , creating slop and hence rough engagement .

Your issue should hopefully be easily and cheaply fixed ..
 
Old vs. New (Indy unlimited kit)

Dimensions:

tendim-X3.jpg



teovs-L.jpg
 
mjskier said:
So no hitting the rivets with a hammer, he just put them in the press and that was good enough to squish/expand them?
Click to expand...

The factory installed rivets looked pressed to me, nice and uniform. A 20 ton press will do a better job then I ever would with a hammer. I will be doing the same on the next basket.
 
Are the clutch spring bolt really only tightened to 5 N.m?
That feels like barely compressing the springs! Doesn't show any locktite, so I assume the spring tension is enough to prevent them from backing out?

teclutch1.pngteclutch3.png
 
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