• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Help! Debris found in my engine - 610/630 clutch issues

Here's my ghetto jig to press the rivets:
- Piece of wood turned on a lathe,
- some workout weights (from my wife, I lift a lot more than that :D)
- and a cheap harbor freight air hammer.

It worked out pretty good once I found out I could hold the hammer bit to prevent it from wandering.

tejig3-L.jpg



tejig1-L.jpg
 
All you need is a little duct tape! Well done. Necessity is the mother of invention. I will use a 50 ton press ( gently )
 
From what I have read, multiple times. It is a metal core.
I can tell you if that is true pretty soon. I am waiting for the store to open to buy oil and re-fill the bike :-)
 
I've used my side cover gasket several times...probably four times. In fact I just reused it tonight- changed the oil so pulled the cover to check the RH oil screen (in good shape but it's the new screen that's only been in for 2800 miles.)
 
My 2 cents here, after pulling the clutch side case (for any reason) put the torque wrench back on them after a good heat cycle ride. Reused gasket or new, re-check them with the torque wrench!

After my Indy clutch basket upgrade I went on one hell of an off road ride on the 630. New gasket, torqued to spec. of course. About 1/4 of the bolts took some attention with the torque wrench after the shake down.
 
FasYankee said:
While my gut answer to this question is "zero".......how many times is the clutch cover gasket re-usable?
Click to expand...

I reused it about ten times and then I replaced it because it didn't look good anymore (I don't remember whether it was too warped or worn).
 
Indy Unlimited does not make the washers any more - anyone got the details of the other guy who makes them? Got a guy this side of the pond who needs a set.
 
That kinda sucks. I'm glad I did mine then. I haven't heard of any other source for them other than stock. Evidently you can buy the whole clutch basket. <shrug>
 
Stujam said:
There is some chat on adv about finding a new manufacturers for the cush washers .

If anyone is in that business and could help please let us know . I will update if i have any info .

http://52.2.64.90/index.php?threads/husqvarna-te630.507511/page-240#post-27835117
Click to expand...

Hi guys
I manufactured some sets of the cup washers from heat treated tool steel and had some rivets turned as well. Any of the 610 owners out there that need washers, I can help. Please PM me for details. I am in South Africa, but we can airmail them no problem.
 
We just did a run of cnc machined tool steel hardened washers . It was a one off run so its good if there is more options .
I can get more made but it would be a minimum order of
10 sets
 
My '00 SM 610e was bought with the kick starter not working and kick lever missing. After a bit of disassembley work I found out why it was removed. It looks like a previous owner (was forced to ) removed the intermediate gear between the kick mechanism and the clutch because bits of one of the spacer washers jammed between it and the clutch or the clutch bush was so badly worn it went all over the place. The teeth on the back of the clutch are mangled and spring retainer plate is heavily scratched from the inter shaft rubbing it. Also the hole where the intermediate shaft is located is cracked and elongated from the impact.
890FF1AF-1312-4E09-A098-E57E6DA53EB7_zpsr8k7v71m.jpg

E7CE8D5A-0E1D-4BEC-9139-23339893C4FF_zpsjm0esf9h.jpg

585F7FBE-AC53-48C6-9E3C-CACDC35BCBB5_zps6fowejhu.jpg


The bike is running fine and I wouldn't have noticed the damage only for I wanted to fix the kick start and have it as a backup incase the battery died.
My only remedy is to get a second hand 28mm centre clutch and get a bush made to fit the 23mm shaft as I cant get a 26mm clutch unless I shell out over 300 euro. And I will still end up without a kick start!:censored:
 
Ouch indeed!
What's worse is the bush I made to make the new basket fit has bound to the shaft and the clutch can't disengage.
Something just doesn't want me to ride my bike it seems!
 
SWM really needs to step up to the plate and make sure they remedy this weak design. If they don't/haven't corrected this it will be bad business for their 650's and their 650 engines going to AJP. There will be no way the Super Dual will be a KLR killer if the clutch washers on them continues to shit the bed and take out the motors, and sometime less then 10K miles! Personally, until knowing SWM has fixed this issue, I could not recommend a bike with this engine, or even consider buying one myself. Having to source upgraded/aftermarket washers and do the install just to insure your bike wont shit the bed early in life is unacceptable!
 
Excuse the double post, but I didn't want to combine them. Please bare with my info/rant, and font issues.

I sent SWM an email speaking about the clutch cup washer issues with this motor (SWM 650) that many have experienced, about my experience with my 630's motor being done at 11,000 miles, and linking this thread. I assured them I was not bashing SWM, but I wanted them to be aware of the issue if they weren't already, as I hope no one else with this motor has to suffer the same fate... at such low miles. I got this short reply:
"thanks for your mail with information and suggestion much appreciate. SWM will be ready for the USA market from June 2016."

I wasn't quite sure what to make of the reply, so I copy pasted the email I sent to SWM and with some explanation added, I sent it to AJP. The reply I got from AJP ended with this: "We are sure that we will provide all future PR7 owners a good product, and we trust 100% on our engine supplier."

Some 610/630 owners may be thinking what is the big deal, the clutch design is fine. Others (like me) may have dumped their oil to see metal debris and shortly there after a toasted motor. I hope no one else has to experience this, it is BS. I bought my 630 new and have maintained it well. I am both mad as hell and sad about it. My intent with my emails is to enlighten SWM and hopefully light a fire under their ass to fix this problem. Just imagine SWM and AJP forums with guys reporting their 650/PR7 motors being done at around the 10,000 mile mark. I hope not.
 
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