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Help! Debris found in my engine - 610/630 clutch issues

Hi
I think now I understood you. But, one question, if you hit the rivets directly with the hammer, isn't there a high risk to hit also the retaining plate in an oversight? I guess you did as this guy in minute 7:30. Am I right?

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F70TcrYuRdE


I've just made a customized anvil with a small "I" shape piece of steel beam that I had in my garage for chance. I made round the corners and glued 4 small steel pieces to avoid hit... where we should not hit. I mean, as you probably know and you can see in the pic, A and B are not at the same level than C, that's why I guess is not so easy to find a proper anvil.

IMG_3573 (1024x768).jpg

IMG_3580 (1024x768).jpg

Second option to make it it this way (like the guy in the video) but this case I have to hit directlly with the harmmer

IMG_3575 (1024x768).jpg

IMG_3579 (1024x768).jpg

I'm gonna try both with the broken clutch housing and see how it works :) Any advice is very welcome

BTW, what I don't understand what you mean by "like REALLY pound on it"? :o
 
motranqui said:
Hi
I think now I understood you. But, one question, if you hit the rivets directly with the hammer, isn't there a high risk to hit also the retaining plate in an oversight? I guess you did as this guy in minute 7:30. Am I right?

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F70TcrYuRdE

Second option to make it it this way (like the guy in the video) but this case I have to hit directlly with the harmmer

View attachment 84124

View attachment 84125

I'm gonna try both with the broken clutch housing and see how it works :) Any advice is very welcome

BTW, what I don't understand what you mean by "like REALLY pound on it"? :o
Click to expand...


What i was meaning by "like REALLY pound on it" was not striking the rivet with long movements and over forceful impacts with the hammer, getting red faced and making grunting noises with effort.
The person in that video done a good job, lots of small hammer strikes, good result, even though they used a claw hammer
I never hit the retaining plate because i was using small movements and controlled hammer strikes, i found using a drift less effective
If you are going to use a bar in your vice, put it in the middle, so the bottom rests on the part under the jaws and cant slip down.
If you are going to hit the rivets directly, i recommend you dont use that hammer with corners, i used the ball end of a quite heavy ball peen hammer
 
I replaced my rivets using a home made wood base with small dumbbell weights.
I used a cheap air hammer to do the pounding. It worked really good. No issues with 1000s of miles later.

tejig1-L.jpg



tejig2-L.jpg


tejig3-L.jpg
 
Thank you
Spice, now is 100% clear. And I've just bought a ball peen hammer and I will make a try tomorrow. And BTW, the bar in the third pic just rest on the wooden table... not all the bar area, but just enough it can not slip down. Anyway I will also consider to put it in the center of the vice, good idea ;) )

Mjskier, you made a superb job with the rivets. They seems riveted as the original ones. Good work. In my opinion, as the inner diameter of the rivests is 6mm, the "riveted" head shoud be approximately 10mm, like seems in your pic :thumbsup:
 
I just took mine to a workshop that does repairs and servicing of brake and clutch parts. They did it quickly and cheaply as revetting is common work.
 
BiG DoM said:
I just took mine to a workshop that does repairs and servicing of brake and clutch parts. They did it quickly and cheaply as revetting is common work.
Click to expand...

Did they make it using a machine or just a hammer?

I think the best option is to carry it to an specialist. In fact, using google I've found (thanks to your idea :thumbsup: ) a couple of workshops that service clutchs parts in Madrid. It's no "my cup of tea" having to fix something using a hammer. It's not a precise way... and that's why I prefer this work to be made by a specialist.

Today I tryed to fix a rivet. I prepared a special device (the one I show in the pic) that guarantee that the clutch basket stays in place when I hit the rivet with the hammer. The results are not to bad, as you can see in the pic, but I'm not satisfied 100%, so I'm going to contact those workshops and I'm going to "put them to the test" with the old clutch basket. If the result is OK, then I'll rivet also the new one there (once I get it... still waiting to the dealer)

Besides, if in the future I open the clutch bastket again, it would be (again) a pain in the neck having to think in the riveting process if I have to make it using a hammer...

IMG_3584.JPG

IMG_3582.JPG
 
mekanik said:
The problem with you smart guys is that you tend to over think things!
Click to expand...

Yes, you're right. But... the point is that this piece is going to be inside the engine spinning like crazy. So, if the riveting process is not correct it could break...
 
It doesn’t take much deforming of the rivet to secure it. There’s no way you’d tap or press out the old rivet without fully grinding back the head. Plus there’s little or no tensile stress applied to them either, only sheering force.
 
Hello guys, I was wondering if there are owners of the old 610 (98-04) that replaced the cup wahsers on their machines, and how worn they were. My clutch is still working well but it has become a bit noisy, so I thought about checking it. Considering that the bike has around 37000 kms it may be a good idea.
 
mg94 said:
Hello guys, I was wondering if there are owners of the old 610 (98-04) that replaced the cup wahsers on their machines, and how worn they were. My clutch is still working well but it has become a bit noisy, so I thought about checking it. Considering that the bike has around 37000 kms it may be a good idea.
Click to expand...


I have a 2008 TE610 and a 2010 TE630. I have replaced the washers on both machines. I had ordered 2 sets of washers from Bertie in South Africa; and had put the job on the backburner.

Last year, my TE610 stopped while on a ride, and I couldn't start it again. I feared the worst, catastrophic engine damage. We went and picked it up in a pickup; drove home and I opened her up for a look. Turns out the crankshaft nut had come loose, but luckily it had only crossthreaded itself a bit on the crankshaft . . . if it had come off it would have really messed things up.

The loose crankshaft caused the woodruff key to disintegrate. I replaced the woodruff key, and also put on a new crankshaft nut and torqued and loctited it to spec. While the case was off, I also decided to do the clutch washers. My 610 has only about 11000km on it and the washers were in a bad state, and some were already disintegrating.

The new washers were a relatively easy install, and I now have peace of mind. The 610 is running great.

A few weeks after I did this, I opened up the 630 and replaced the washers on it also. They were also in a dodgy state of affairs.

I highly recommend you take a look and do the replacement. :)
 
Hi
My experiencie with the clutch specialist has beed bad. One of them wanted to charge me... 180€ for riveting and "equilibrate the springs" :eek: . Crazy guy. And the other one didn't make the riveting properling. In fact, as you can see he bended the rivets when I removed them to "have a look". The first one is the OEM one, second and forth the ones he tryed to rivet and the third one the one I riveted by myself. So finally I took the decition to make it by myself. :)

IMG_3592 (1024x768).jpg

IMO the worst thing is that the rivets and too short. They are 18mm lengh and that means that you have only 2,8mm lengh to rivet. If the were 20mm instead 18mm they were ideal ones.

IMG_3593 (1024x768).jpg

I used the thin area of the small hammer in contact with the rivet and the big hammer to hit the small one. I hope you undertand what I mean, sorry I can not explain it better :rolleyes:

IMG_3600 (1024x768).jpg
 
After only 30 minutes work you can see the results: IMO are quite good.

IMG_3594 (1024x768).jpgIMG_3595 (1024x768).jpgIMG_3596 (1024x768).jpgIMG_3597 (1024x768).jpg

But I insist: if they were 20mm instead of 18mm we'll get a fat 10mm "head" instead of a thin 8,5mm one.

BTW, may be a stupid question: when do you decide to stop hitting the rivet? When we tight a nut we have a "torque" level. Nevertheless when we "rivet" we don't have a "hammer hitting level" :rolleyes:
 
Spice Weasel said:
These are the rivets i got, part no. 8000 36848
View attachment 84519View attachment 84520
Click to expand...

Yeah, same reference here but I got the first one in the pic above. As the head is not like the one you get, it keeps 1mm out of the inner housing surface. IMO this is good to ensure that the hits go ONLY to the rivet's head and not to the housing...

Today I reasembled everyting and went for a quick ride. Every thing seems to go right. :)

IMG_3602.JPG

May be some of you guys think that I'm a bit crazy installing the OEM cup washers instead of the "upgraded ones". May be you're right. But by my own experience, the OEM cup washers desing is good as long as the steel material is good: is not necesary to make thicker washer, only ensure that the material quality is good. So my mind is to make a new "upgraded cup washer" may be a little bit thicker (from 1,00 mm to 1,20) and that's it. And longer rivets. From now I'm going to try to contact a company that can manufacture these small cup washers... and I'll see how much them will cost. Once I got them, I'll install them in my bike. Of course I'll infom you all just in case someone is interested in"my" new improved cup washers :)
 
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