• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

Help - brand new 2013 txc310r not starting

tjf said:
2. I cannot break free the rear oil drain (one with metal screen filter and tube). I've just about stripped the 12mm head. Anyone else had this problem? I may never end up draining fron there. Anyone know how "bad" that would be?
Click to expand...

Too bad on these issues :(

On the oil plug, use a good quality box-end wrench... Forget the china tools here and open-ended wrenchs.

Seat the wrench as good as possible on the drain plug and give it 1 good hard even plull (CCW), ensuring the wrench does not slide on the drainplug bolt.

--
Vise grips are next if totally stripped out head... Next might be welding something to the plug head...

And you are not the first here to mention this issue ... Also, be real careful not to drop the copper washer off the bolt and into your oil catcher.
 
tjf said:
O

2. I cannot break free the rear oil drain (one with metal screen filter and tube). I've just about stripped the 12mm head. Anyone else had this problem? I may never end up draining fron there. Anyone know how "bad" that would be?
Click to expand...

Run the bike for 10 minutes first. If the plug is still on too tight, heat the plug. To break loose, I use a six point metric flare wrench.

380398159090_6.jpg
 
So I got it back together again. This time I used the Zip Ty holder and torqued to spec.. I also lapped the flywheel to the crank. Another think I did was assemble it differently. Someone had mentioned to me that you should have the worm gear removed (ie remove starter motor) when you torque down the nut. This allows the stater gear and flywheel to move forward as much as possible. Perhaps this will make a difference? This was not obvious to me - is every one else assembling in this manner?........ So I have about an hour of riding on it and so far so good. I think I need about 4 good rides before I'll have confidence that the flywheel is not going to shift again........ I got another question for anyone reading this -do you have trouble starting the bike with the kickstarter? I virtually cannot get the bike started with it. Any "tricks"?
 
Glad to hear it is working out for you finally ,

Mine was hard to start originally with kicker till it got broken in . Also might want to check your exhaust valve decompression specs .

I also switched to an iridium plug and run Vp Vpr racing fuel ( $65 for 5 gals) but mine runs strong on the stuff and fires always.

Fires off kicker 1st time when using it. I always bring it up before compression and have to use motocross boots.
 
I'm confused about the decompressor. I know what one does but don't understand where or how it is actuated in the txc 310. I search for "decompress" in the parts manual but nothing comes up. Is there something that opens one of the exhaust valves for decompression? I guess in short what does "check your exhaust valve decompression spec" mean? What do I look for if I pull the valve cover?
 
Make sure you valves are adjusted up on the tight end of the spec range. Otherwise the automatic decompressor will be less effective.

And it'll be better once it's actually broken in and ran in - in about five good hard long rides.
 
tjf said:
I'm confused about the decompressor. I know what one does but don't understand where or how it is actuated in the txc 310. I search for "decompress" in the parts manual but nothing comes up. Is there something that opens one of the exhaust valves for decompression? I guess in short what does "check your exhaust valve decompression spec" mean? What do I look for if I pull the valve cover?
Click to expand...

The decompression mechanism is the spring loaded doohickey on the exhaust cam.

Here ya go http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/exhaust-cam-spring.17392/
 
Sheared a third flywheel key today! I am at a loss as to what to do. I guess I can try red loctite on the shaft, I am tempted to take maybe 0.020 off of the spacer that sits behind the starter gear so that the flywheel can get more up on the taper - I know that sounds crazy. This is a brand new bike, 3 hrs on it! I can't believe this keeps happening. Anyone got any idea's?
 
tjf said:
Sheared a third flywheel key today! I am at a loss as to what to do. I guess I can try red loctite on the shaft, I am tempted to take maybe 0.020 off of the spacer that sits behind the starter gear so that the flywheel can get more up on the taper - I know that sounds crazy. This is a brand new bike, 3 hrs on it! I can't believe this keeps happening. Anyone got any idea's?
Click to expand...


Short of replacing the crank and flywheel I don't know. Trimming the spacer will mis-align your starter gears.

I used Loctite retaining compound on mine but I don't know if it really made a difference as mine only spun when the dealer messed with it. I also used a new flywheel.

Red loctite is not the same thing.

What is your phone #? I'll give you a call.

I'm concerned that it does not want to kickstart.

Maybe your exhaust valve on the de-compressor side is too loose?

Anyway, how beat up was the flywheel from spinning over the sheared key?

BTW, I never removed the worm gear on my bike.
 
Some thoughts.....

Did you use Prussian Blue to check the fit?

Are you using the washer on the flywheel nut?
 
I have not used Prussian Blue. The stores here don't seem to have it. I did try using a sharpie but that did not work too well. I did lap it again last night though. I called Halls today and ordered more keys and nuts. Halls also gave me some advice for re-assembly which I plan on following.
1. Use red loctite on both threads and shaft.
2. Torque to 100NM (about 25 over spec).

I am using the washer. I'm hoping the red loctite does the trick. If it breaks loose again maybe I am looking at a new flywheel. I am a little concerned about getting loctite on the needle bearings. Hopefully that won't happen. My number in case you want to call is 585 520 4370.
 
I'll call today. I would not use the Red Loctite...I'd use the retaining compound specifically made for that purpose.

I would not worry too much about the needle bearings, if you get a little on it will be ashed off with the oil.

You really need to get that fit perfect.

I can send you the Prussian Blue and the correct loctite retaining compound if you "promise" to send it back as I will need it the next time my sprag seizes!

If you need a new flywheel maybe ask the dealer to sell it to you at cost?
 
Tinken said:
Run the bike for 10 minutes first. If the plug is still on too tight, heat the plug. To break loose, I use a six point metric flare wrench.
Click to expand...
I just bought one of these after nearly stripping my oil plug. Nice cheap craftsman, hoping its not counterfeit from some stone-age country for $3.49 free shipping.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/380397785771?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&var=650036279679&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT



tjf said:
I am using the washer. I'm hoping the red loctite does the trick. If it breaks loose again maybe I am looking at a new flywheel. I am a little concerned about getting loctite on the needle bearings. Hopefully that won't happen. My number in case you want to call is 585 520 4370.
Click to expand...

Is that washer a bellville washer or flat useless one?
 
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