• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

FLAMEOUT and the '08 EFI

You could maybe try retarding the ignition slightly by increasing the air gap on the pick up coil, we do this occassionally when we get a bike that kicks back on starting. It makes a marginal difference but it's enough to reduce kick back.

Also is the auto decompressor working correctly? We've seen the odd one where production tolerances stack up and the fly weight can just move enough to miss the edge of the rocker. This may be causing an issue at very low rpm. (Idle speed should be around 1850rpm too).

Do you have access to iBeat?

Dave
 
I'll look into retarding the timing.

I bought a new auto DC cam a while back,took the auto DC out and it seemed to be working fine. It still looked good when I took the head off a few weeks ago.

I run the idle at about a 1850 minimum, usually about 2000.

I washed the bike Tuesday and prepped it out. When I started it I got a flashing neutral light. This is a first, I haven't had any of those yet and it was fine before the washing.

I went ahead and took it for a short ride and it seems fine. Went through all the stuff list in the manual, but that's not to say a connection isn't wet and I still need to meter the PU resistor that replaces the O2 sensor.

If I can't figure it out, I'll be making a trip to Hall's and have them hook it up to the iBeat.

BTW- I made an offer on a used WR250 today.
 
This is a long shot, but are your valves in spec? I just went through replacing the intakes on my '07 TE250, and the last couple rides I did before doing the work gave me some pretty wicked backfires. However, those backfires were when trying to start it, so probably not your issue. Hope you figure it out!
 
Akt_014.jpg
 
i'l chime in here...

i have an 08 SM510R and pretty much had everything you mention here. flameouts, popping on decel, running hot etc. i hooked up the bike to ibeat and it seemed to want to run good with the FB1 set to 105 so i left it at that. bike ran better no more popping and ran cooler but the flameouts were still present. i hooked up a PCIII and created a custom map for it and low and behold the flameouts were almost non existent. only when the bike is cold do i get an occasional flameout. we hooked up the bike to an exhaust anylizer and found the culprit to be 2 things. when the bike was NOT at operating temp the ecu dances around leaning out the fuel curve so if you happen to blip it when it cycles lean the bike dies. the other and probably the most significant was in the low rpms (1800-2400) the fuel curve leans out waaaaaay too much. according to the exhaust anylizer it drops to 0.4-0.8 around that range. we fattened up the map in that area to get it right at 1.8-2.2 and wham bam thank you mam... i was in business. i can crack, blip or twist the throttle and no more flameouts.

dyno results gave me about a 1hp increase in the low range and then peaks right from mid on to about 3hp then flattens out. on the factory pro dyno we peak at 47hp which is about 54hp on a dynojet.

im pretty happy with the settings now but i hear i can prolly squeeze another 2-3 (dynojet hp) by tweaking the map some more. i'll do this in +/-1 units now that im in the ballpark.
 
I'll have to agree with that, that's pretty much what I'm seeing. My problem now seems to be the transition to operating temp., or above. Seems like I can get it to run right, but when I get in tight, twisty stuff the temp increases and it acts bad again.

Have any idea what the ECU does when it starts to get hot?
 
my guess is that you're still pretty lean. do you have a PC? what does your plug look like? i remember i tried a fast by ferraci map on my PC and it acted similar to what your describing. ran ok until it got hot and i got stutters at low rpm and some popping.
 
Yes, I have a PC III and it came from FBF, but I don't use their map. I have a "Fat" map that I run most of the time, which seems to work the best. It's generic, but I add 15% more fuel across the range up to about 3750, then drop to ten the rest of the way out. I also run the AC pump at 97% sensitivity with a about the max they recommended.

I had it up at Hall's and they said there wasn't any sense in doing anything with the iBeat, because I could do everything they could do with it, and a whole lot more.
 
yes this is with the PCIII tuned on the dyno. the baseline was with tweaking on the ibeat so you can see it wasnt running too bad. just mainly the flameouts at low rpm. i wsh i would have did the baseline before the ibeat tuning, i bet the increase would have been more relative to that. target o2?
 
sanhozeezee;38228 said:
here are my dyno results (note i had to trace over so you can read better:

dyno_SM510R.jpg
Click to expand...

Nice! What is the rpms scale? 100 = 10,000 rpms?

I noticed you are in the area. Is there any discussions on other local forums regarding these types of issues? SBR, BARF, etc?

I've been trying to take the efi/carb information to the next level but do not have an efi bike, mine is a 2006 TE250.
 
according to the exhaust anylizer it drops to 0.4-0.8 around that range. we fattened up the map in that area to get it right at 1.8-2.2 and wham bam thank you mam... i was in business.
Click to expand...

ah ic... i mentioned it here ^^

i think you can actually be ok at up to 3.x but i believe it dipped a little on hp.

hey coffee, yeah im local. havent heard too much on husky efi issues on barf but mostly on SMJ/TT etc.
 
Man, just read through this whole thread....lotta good info.

The very issues you guys are having is why I avoided buying the FI model TE610 - because I had laready lived this nightmare of countless upon countless threads desperately & frustratingly trying to isolate the cause on my BMW F650.

For that bike, what it boiled down to was overly-lean mapping just off of idle. I tolerated it (although was quite frustrated about it) until one day I was trying to turn left and my bike flamed out in the oncoming lane.

I bought two carb'd bikes immediately following that ('06 KTM 950 and an '06 TE610).

I think the Japanese have FI figured out a little better.

Until the European manufacturers stop trying to meet projected emission standards which are 4-7 years out, I won't buy a FI bike manufactured in Europe.
 
So, coming back to The Cafe after work and reviewing my thread I can see I wasn't much help....

Here's what others tried which proved helpful on the F650. Hopefully these have some application on the '08 & forward 610s....

* Maintain a healthy charging system - ECUs are sensitive to weak voltage - frequently check voltage at the ECU to confirm rectifier output - keep the battery healthy - CLEAN / SHAVE the battery terminals - use dielectric grease on the battery & ECU connections

* Disconnect the O2 sensor on the exhaust to eliminate the feedback during lean-mapping times (the O2 sensor isn't essential during high throttle conditions)

* Try a projected tip spark plug which ensures better detonation between the flame front & pressure wave

* Clean injectors

* Add a Power Commander .... always disappointing when you sink a bunch of dough into a Euro bike and then drop another $200+ to get it over the lean Euro mapping
 
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