• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

FLAMEOUT and the '08 EFI

I don't feel Quasimoto's pain. Everyone has stated over and over that these bikes run like this until they are opened up. I remember it and so do many, many others. Get back to us when you have 600 miles of break-in, the power-up kit installed, throttle stop removed, TPS adjusted, iBeat tuned and the idle up a bit. These are not hard things to do. In fact, I bet they are easier to do than complaining about the bike all the time. Two forums and all you do is complain. Do something about it! We've told you the solutions...they're right there for you...staring at you in the face...calling you.

Rant off...David.
 
Motorhead - how did you reduce compression? A new piston? What part # did you use?
Have you posted this work in another thread?
 
question...

you guys that are getting the flame out, how did you seal the vacumn port off the intake manifold when you removed the charcoal canister and associated vacumn line?
 
I'm running two base gaskets and the thickest head gasket right now. I have not posted this work in another thread.

I removed the fitting and installed a screw coated in THREEBOND 1211.
 
What's the problem with MR FITNESS2GO ?

Mr David is on a roll :excuseme:

You might want to ask your doctor to change your meds or something but who the heck are you on this forum ?. Do U represent everyone here since you mention :"report to us"; who is "us" ? I'll tell you when I report again, so you can grant me permission to post again.:notworthy:

My point is only that quite a few seem to still have problems even after uncorking and ibeat or PC III on their TE's.

All in all, Mr David, why don't you refrain from posting negative personal posts and try to understand what some Husky noobs are concerned about. Or is that too much for your obviously very low I.Q. ?

Now back to our regularly scheduled program.
 
two base gaskets and the thickest head gasket right now
interesting, and you say it's more woods/tight friendly. So I guess you have to pull the cylinder for the base gaskets and break the timing chain for such a process?
 
Nothing wrong with me!?!? I've been here a while and ridden with many a member. I've had some issues with my bike and I asked questions on how to fix them...you know "Get the job done." I can't stand when someone comes into these forums and starts bitching and moaning before they ever try to find out the solution. If you've tried everything and the bike is still a stinker, then by all means COMPLAIN. I'm sorry to get under your sensitive thin skin. If you look at my post, I didn't say anything about you needing meds. I listed 6 easy steps to do to your bike and get back to "US." That way if the bike doesn't work, "WE'LL" try and help you figure it out.

David

Quasimoto;8077216 said:
I just got an 08 leftover, and I sure hope (I am pretty sure) your 09 is way better than my 08.

I am everything but impressed by my 08 TE 450. Definitely a backward move for me and a total disappointment.

I know the 09's are much better than the 08's, so you should be happy with your purchase.

Ride carefully.

Phil

08 Husky TE 450 (Is it a scooter ?)

Quasimoto;8044791 said:
So I buy a leftover new 08 TE 450 at the dealer one week ago.......one week later, today, the dealer brings the bike to my house in a delivery van.........and before the dealership dude leaves I try to start the bike..........NOTHING :foul: NADA, NIENTE, NICHTS, RIEN......

So I sent the bike back ****************************************!("Made in Italy" could mean some majorly insidious electrical gremlins such as those I had in all my Ducatis); Never done this before and I am 50 years young and I have had many bikes. The dealer says bike was running perfectly before loading it on the delivery truck ?????

Should have gone UJM or stayed orange I guess. :moon:

Husqvarna sucks or is this a test of my patience ? My last Husky was in 1979, a 250 WR (the one with the red tank).

Certainly does not seem to indicate foolproof reliability, does it ? Going to be fun if this happens in the middle of the woods away from civilisation.....Deliverance anyone?:lol:

Should have bought that TXC 510 instead.

Happy Trails to All, (except me)

Quasimoto;8046220 said:
Been there, done that....Kill switch: Check - Clutch pull in: Check, even kicked a few times, it is simply a dead bird :bonk:. Battery weak.... I say there might be drain in the harness, which manifested itself during transport in the van (vibrations/bumps etc.). One has to go through the whole harness, starting at the kill switch and clutch cut off switch with an amp meter and look for a drain/short somewhere, but they can be near impossible to find if due to a loose bare wire intermittently touching the frame.

I know already, the dealer is just going to charge the battery, and call it good to go, because dealers are dealers and do not give a rat's ass anymore. Just went through it with another dealer with my new Tiger 1050 springing a massive oil leak from the stator cover at 45 miles on the odo, with a subsequent near "slippery" crash;but that is another story.

Thinking about going carburated, and giving up on FI, that's all. The street legal plate was just a nice advantage to this bike though. Raced KTM's for years, and would build them myself at the dealer's out of the crate. Never had a problem in 20 years. I live in New England, where the terrain is among the toughest and often very wet. Bikes really take a beating here. If one gets stranded in the woods of the North East US, you're F#@*&d, period. Looking at a real bad time.......

Again, as you guys mention, it is the dealer's responsibility, and I do not believe this dealer will fullfill those responsibilities at all. It is my first time doing business with this guy, and when I saw him fill out the sale paperwork 3 times in front of me because he could do it right the first time, I should have known I was in for a few 'surprises'.

Let us just say, I would be reluctant on racing this bike in a NETRA enduro. I guess I am old fashioned and all my race bikes were 2 strokes; still not used to 4 strokes, especially with FI, so right now I am a little dubious about reliability. If this is what I get when new, what am I looking at 60 miles into a gnarly, wet, rocky, rooty enduro with many crashes ( I do crash a lot) ?.

First time for everything. Buying a new dead non-running bike is definitely new to me. But it is a toy, and at my age, one realizes there are much more important things in life than a dirtbike.

I don't see this bike being a raceable bike at this point.

Thanks for all your input. I'll keep you posted with this little story.

By the way, Looney888, your input, though attempting to be somewhat abrupt and not helpful, is appreciated but wrong. I used to ride and race Ducatis, as far back as in the late 70's and there ARE a lot of problems with the newer Ducatis...that is why I do not buy or ride them anymore. My last Duc was a $17,000 08 S4RS which NEVER ran and ended up catching on fire with less than 2,000 miles on the clock. A lot of electric and electronic issues with Ducatis. Loose stator shaft bolts, oil bypass plugs coming loose in the crank.....you name it, they have it.

Next episode, will be next week, stay tuned.

Quasimoto;8048823 said:
Kill switch was checked, battery tested and so on.

Bike was running at the dealer and was checked by tech prior to delivery.

Dealer will probably blame a dead battery and will charge it.........under warranty means I can't touch it.

There are many other brands of 'indestructible' bikes beside Husky.

Long live carburators !

Certainly not the friendliest of riders around here.....reminds me very interestingly about Monster.org in the Ducati forum. It is that bit of attitude encountered when one criticizes their beloved brand of bike, I guess.

Phil

Quasimoto;8053568 said:
And the answer is.....You all lost by the way... A cracked defective battery. :p
 
Oh and here are some other nasty things I said about you on your post over on TT...horrible:

fitness2go;8053601 said:
That's actually great news! Get a new battery in ASAP and unleash the beast. I'm really interested to hear what you think. I suspect that you will not have anymore issues...knock on wood. Make sure you read up on all the prep things to do to the bike before riding...mid-pipe guard...watch the left fork guard as it will eat your forks...industrial velcro the battery in place...regrease linkage...
 
GoFaster;33444 said:
interesting, and you say it's more woods/tight friendly. So I guess you have to pull the cylinder for the base gaskets and break the timing chain for such a process?

Yes, I like the bike much better now. The motor is WAY smoother and easier to ride. I'm not a big fan of really high compression engines anyway. IMO, anything above about 12:1 starts to give diminishing returns, via very jerky power below about 4 grand and possible lose of torque from "deto" on pump gas. Adding FWW and running race gas will help, but then you start to slow revs again and add to opertating costs / complexity, which just seems to be shooting yourself in the foot, to me anyway.

It might all be justifiable for PRO level MX or SM, but not for what I want it to do.

Pulling the top end down isn't that nasty of a job, you don't have to break the cam chain and I didn't remove the valves or even have to re-shim. Just put it back together and set the cam timing, which isn't as hard as it sounds.

Besides, IMO, the rewards are worth it.
 
MOTORHEAD;33417 said:
I removed the fitting and installed a screw coated in THREEBOND 1211.

That's what I did- I cut doun an 8mm bolt the same length as the vacuum fitting and coated with permatex gasket sealant. one more thing to never worry about again.:thumbsup:
 
MOTORHEAD;33417 said:
I'm running two base gaskets and the thickest head gasket right now. I have not posted this work in another thread.

I removed the fitting and installed a screw coated in THREEBOND 1211.

If anyone read Scott Summers profile of what they did to a TE 510, it included lowering the compression. They did it via shaving the piston which was a fairly expensive proposition but they like the results too, of a little more tractable and predictable response.
 
MOTORHEAD;33460 said:
Yes, I like the bike much better now. The motor is WAY smoother and easier to ride. I'm not a big fan of really high compression engines anyway. IMO, anything above about 12:1 starts to give diminishing returns, via very jerky power below about 4 grand and possible lose of torque from "deto" on pump gas. Adding FWW and running race gas will help, but then you start to slow revs again and add to opertating costs / complexity, which just seems to be shooting yourself in the foot, to me anyway.

It might all be justifiable for PRO level MX or SM, but not for what I want it to do.

Pulling the top end down isn't that nasty of a job, you don't have to break the cam chain and I didn't remove the valves or even have to re-shim. Just put it back together and set the cam timing, which isn't as hard as it sounds.

Besides, IMO, the rewards are worth it.

Do you know what your compression ratio is now?
 
Somebody was telling me about the benefits of piston shaving not too long ago. I'd rather run a thicker head gasket, though. Both cheaper and less work. I wonder how many thousands more than stock you would have to run to make the bike run better on the trails.:thinking::excuseme:
 
Somewhere around .020" or .5mm seems to do the trick. The TXC has a 2 ring flat top piston and the TE has a 3 ring concave top. It would actually be more of a pain to do the TE piston and I didn't want to take the time to build a piston holding fixture, so I just added the second base and tickest head gasket. The TC/TXC would be simple with a piston fixture. A TXC piston might be in my future.

That seems to have gotten me +.018" and a 11.5:1 compression ratio.
 
MOTORHEAD;33480 said:
Somewhere around .020" or .5mm seems to do the trick. The TXC has a 2 ring flat top piston and the TE has a 3 ring concave top. It would actually be more of a pain to do the TE piston and I didn't want to take the time to build a piston holding fixture, so I just added the second base and tickest head gasket. The TC/TXC would be simple with a piston fixture. A TXC piston might be in my future.

That seems to have gotten me +.018" and a 11.5:1 compression ratio.

Thanks for the info.:thumbsup:
 
It sounds like you have a vaccum leak. Mine had the same symptoms and thats what my problem was. It is very possible that your low pressure could be from an injector going beyond its duty cycle rating from the mods to the motor. Not sure, but i would look there as well...

Good luck
 
PhilM;33559 said:
It sounds like you have a vaccum leak. Mine had the same symptoms and thats what my problem was. It is very possible that your low pressure could be from an injector going beyond its duty cycle rating from the mods to the motor. Not sure, but i would look there as well...

Good luck

that is what I was thinking with the intake manifold vacumn port and a potential leak...

I removed the hose and installed a rubber vacumn port cap over the manifold vacumn port instead of the screw/3bond method.
 
MOTORHEAD;33694 said:
Where did yours leak?

I don't think that's the problem, since there are no signs of any leaks anywhere.

The clamps at the throttle body. I also had a small leak around the fitting where the evap canister comes into the motor. I had no idea untill I sprayed some fluid around the fittings...
 
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