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Finding Neutral?

R

rockitdoc

Husqvarna
C Class
I have trouble getting my bike ('09) into neutral even when moving sometimes. Sometimes, not. Sometimes I have to turn off bike, then shift into neutr. Typical, or something I need to look into?
 
rockitdoc;121535 said:
I have trouble getting my bike ('09) into neutral even when moving sometimes. Sometimes, not. Sometimes I have to turn off bike, then shift into neutr. Typical, or something I need to look into?
Click to expand...

You´re most likely lucky in that it´s a five minute job to rectify.
Set the clutch plates so that they´re just a bit further apart by adjusting the knurled ring at the end of the clutch lever (don´t forget to set the lock nut again when your´re done).

At the moment, the clutch doesn´t disengage thoroughly, which keeps the cogs turning so that you can´t find neutral. To prove the point, you could stop the engine and then engage neutral which should be then found easily.

This is normally done on any bike every 1000 miles or so.
 
610's are always tough to get neutral.. Different oils help a lil sometime.. Proper clutch adjustments helps a lil too.. But a slightly "looser" clutch lever is better than a "tight" one... It's never gonna be perfect on a 610. I always grab neutral as I roll to a stop..
 
I've found that on the 610 I can get it into neutral easier from second gear. I put it in second, then give it a very quick, yet firm tap downwards. If I try to find neutral from first gear, I am rarely successful. Also putting it into neutral while rolling to a stop works well. And if I still can't get it, then I just turn off the engine. I think neutral is difficult on all 610's from what I've read.
 
jckid;121989 said:
I've found that on the 610 I can get it into neutral easier from second gear. I put it in second, then give it a very quick, yet firm tap downwards. If I try to find neutral from first gear, I am rarely successful. Also putting it into neutral while rolling to a stop works well. And if I still can't get it, then I just turn off the engine. I think neutral is difficult on all 610's from what I've read.
Click to expand...

+1, it's easier to find N coming to it from 2nd.
 
+2 When I'm approaching a stoplight I'll lightly tap it into neutral from second. Seems to be the easiest way to find neutral when running plus I get to look cool at the light w/out having to hold the clutch in the whole time. :cool: :thumbsup:
 
I recently bought a used 2007 TE610 to replace my DRZ400s, and this is the first thing I noticed about the bike. Finding neutral was virtually impossible. The bike also crept forward in 1st gear with the clutch lever pulled in. I had to 4 finger clutch to stop it from creeping on my 1st ride, probably getting a 'little more' disengagement from the extra squeeze. After a slow speed tip over due to the creep on a tight 180 turn I realized I could shut the engine down to get the bike in neutral.

I don't ride on the street that much and most of the time I need to find neutral is in singletrack or hillclimbs so shutting the bike down is not really an option and 'coasting' into stops is usually not in order. I'll fiddle with the adjustment a bit to see if I can correct it.

Any suggestions on an oil that will improve clutch performance on this issue?
 
MikeAdamson;133219 said:
I recently bought a used 2007 TE610...

Any suggestions on an oil that will improve clutch performance on this issue?
Click to expand...

You got a great bike! :)

I only have a TE250, not a 610, but I've experimented with a few different oils. The difference is immediately noticeable. In addition when my bike becomes finicky to shift that is an excellent indication that my oil needs changing.

I don't remember the exact brands of oil I've used... sorry.
 
I noticed a big improvement when I started to use Mobile 1 20/50 synthetic, at 13$ a litre (from Walmart) the bike shifted a lot smoother. Well worth it.
 
MikeAdamson;133219 said:
...Finding neutral was virtually impossible. The bike also crept forward in 1st gear with the clutch lever pulled in. I had to 4 finger clutch to stop it from creeping on my 1st ride...
Click to expand...

That’s not a normal 610 clutch operation
You just need to adjust your clutch, the 610 is a two finger pull albeit a strong two fingers...it’s not your DRZ with its small clutch that you can pull with your pinky all day long :D but still, a two not four fingers operation

As stated above, I too have found that the easiest way to find the holy neutral is by adjusting the clutch, and hunting for it while still in motion
I believe 20/50 synt. oil did help mine too

If you have the money there is a hydraulic clutch option that might make a difference :thinking:

:thumbsup:
 
Ditto on the Mobil 1! Just had my Triumph serviced and the dealer used Mobil 1 20/50. I never would have tried the stuff if I were shopping for oil but, the thing nearly shifts itself now. Just a tap and we're there up or down. This bike's transmission is finicky about the oil too. Different bike but maybe it'll help with the 610 shifting:excuseme:
 
I had not changed the oil since the previous owner said it was good to go. Well when I dumped it, I found the exact opposite to be true. Once I changed the oil the bike slipped right into neutral with zero issues. I also adjusted the clutch and the creeping ceased. The bike is for sale but it is a really nice bike to ride. Just not the right one for what I need. Still glad I got it, and glad I found out for myself. You'll never hear me say a bad word about the TE610.
 
MikeAdamson;139811 said:
I had not changed the oil since the previous owner said it was good to go. Well when I dumped it, I found the exact opposite to be true. Once I changed the oil the bike slipped right into neutral with zero issues. I also adjusted the clutch and the creeping ceased...
Click to expand...

:thumbsup:


:cheers:
 
organ donor said:
You´re most likely lucky in that it´s a five minute job to rectify.
Set the clutch plates so that they´re just a bit further apart by adjusting the knurled ring at the end of the clutch lever (don´t forget to set the lock nut again when your´re done).

At the moment, the clutch doesn´t disengage thoroughly, which keeps the cogs turning so that you can´t find neutral. To prove the point, you could stop the engine and then engage neutral which should be then found easily.

This is normally done on any bike every 1000 miles or so.
Click to expand...

i am having great difficulty getting my 09 610 into neutral when running. i can find it quite easily after swtching off though. sounds exactly like you describe above.

can you describe it a bit more detail how to do the above???
 
just had a bit of a look and it looks like my clutch cable is about to go too. can anyone point me to somewhere to order a replacement (who will send to Oz)? i have done a bit of reading and it looks like the barnett is the go or motion pro.
 
All of the usual names ship to Oz... I cannot think of any that don't. If you need it in reasonable time then I'd suggest USPS Express International or if you need it now, then a courier...

For the $40 or so that it would cost to ship a single cable, I'd want to fill that box up with parts even if I didn't need them at this moment.
 
i Have this problem on my te511, really annoying :banghead: Easy to down shift from 2nd than up from 1st.

What 'Organ Doner' said, will that work on this beeeemer motor? Ive been running the Motul 7100 10/60 oil since day dot. :)
 
If gthe clutch plates do not disengage on ANY bike, it´ll be hard to find neutral (double de-clutching used to be one method often used). But Huskys seem to be a bit of a problem anyway. It just takes very nimble toes.
 
organ donar, would you mind explaining in a bit more detail how to adjust so the clutch plates disengage?

ive never had to do this before.

thanks
 
I must apologise (I was still with my old CCM which has a mechanical clutch that can be adjusted by adding tension at the lever end). But the 630 has a hydraulic actuated clutch. As long as the clutch plates are not worn out, plate friction depends on the type of oil used AND having no air in the hydraulic system. So if you follow the clutch hydraulic line from the lever to the clutch housing, you´ll find the clutch actuator which has a bleed nipple on top. Fill the handlebar reservoir and pump CLUTCH (not brake) fluid through until no more bubbles appear. Close the nipple and the problem should be better.
 
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