DIY revalve of TC forks?

[MOTORHEAD]

Take the spare 11mm and replace the 12 in the LSCS, then if you really want to get rid of roots and rocks in the trail, put the 12 under the first 22mm .

You probable need the extra preload if you have a lot of hours on the springs. How much extra do you have on them?

 

[ray_ray]

What is LSCS?

Not sure on the preload exactly, but the sag is at 38mm on the front ...

Not sure what is going on here as when I set it a few months back, it was < 20mm or so ... well below what is usually recommended but when it was tested at that level, it felt fine so I left it and never looked it again till now ...

All this sag causes the front end to bite in corners?

 

[MOTORHEAD]

Low speed compression stack, which is the first four shims from the valve body in this case.

 

[NWRider]

Sorry but I have been sick all week. I tore into my WR forks tonight though and have the compression stack. I do not know if I need to modify the rebound so I did not take it apart.

I have a lots of shims. Here is a pic

It is hard to read the picture so here is the stack, starting from the top (red cap) and workingn down.


.2x12, .3x13, .2x14, .15x15, .15x16, .11x17, .1x18, .11x19, .1x20, .15x21, .1x22(there are 8 of these), .1x12.

What should I do to make the small trail trash disapear?

I guess I am about 'B' speed. Everyone I ride with is an 'A' rider but I am not too far behind. But I ride as well or better in the tech stuff which is my priority. Most of our trails are two types. Tight and steep with lots of roots. Or a little more open with tons of loose baby head rocks. This is all first through third gear stuff. We do have a little faster and very chunky stuff but it is not as important to me. I like tight, steep, and hard trails the most.

It would be nice if the bike did not beat me up so much. As far as perforrmance goes I would like it to stick a little better on slow speed roots and rocks. If i could get the first half soft and still keep some of the great bottoming resistence it would be perfect.

Thanks

 

[ray_ray]

wow ... that makes my stack look really short .... All those 22s look like the major difference in the count ...

MH, maybe you are compare and comment on the differences of the 2 stacks for all us rookies ...

 

[ray_ray]

Take the spare 11mm and replace the 12 in the LSCS, then if you really want to get rid of roots and rocks in the trail, put the 12 under the first 22mm .

You probable need the extra preload if you have a lot of hours on the springs. How much extra do you have on them?

There appears to be a 13mm in the LSCS and not a 12mm ... Is this the shim you are referring to?

 

[MOTORHEAD]

Shim #5 in your picture.

 

[ray_ray]

Am I reading the LSCS correct? It is on the left side of the pic, correct?

The first 22mm is #2 in my pic?

 

[MOTORHEAD]

NWRider, it appears you have a standard cartridge and not the closed, twin chammer style ray_ray has.

Your current stack:
12x.1
22x.1 (8)
21x.15
20x.1
19
18
17
16x.15
15
14x.2
13x.3
12x.2

Try this shuffle and see what you think:
22x.1 (2)
12x.1
22x.1 (2)
20x.1
17
21x.15
19x.1
18
16x.15
15
14x.2
13x.3
12x.2
22x.1 (4)

This is a WR250/300, right? Stock springs? Got any 3mm preload washers, or preload adjustment?

May need to go to a .44 or .45kg/mm spring with this, but it will give us a starting point.

 

[MOTORHEAD]

Yeah, sounds right.

Am I reading the LSCS correct? It is on the left side of the pic, correct?

The first 22mm is #2 in my pic?

 

[ray_ray]

Cool! My stack looks like grade school stuff as compared to NWr stuff ...

 

[MOTORHEAD]

His is pretty normal, stock type straight stack stuff. Yours actually looks like somebody has revalved it, but I've never been in a TXC fork, either.

 

[ray_ray]

Maybe but I'd be surprised if so ... The bike was a demo model that I purchased from the bike barn in lower OR ... The forks deflected and were harsh when I first got the bike ..

 

[NWRider]

NWRider, it appears you have a standard cartridge and not the closed, twin chammer style ray_ray has.

.

I am confused here. My bike is a 09 WR 125 which came with the twin chamber. It has the red caps on top(shown in picture). It has a bladder which needed bleeding exactly per the TC bleeding directions sticky.

Either way thanks for the stack advice. I was thinking that I need to get some of those 22's out of there.

I noticed there are two things making my stack stiff. First is the 8 22's. Second is the shims after them very gradually get smaller which I guess gives the 22's more support to resist flex. Does anyone know if these two things both make the forks stiff in the same way or do they have different effects?

 

[NWRider]

Oh, do you think I should tear into the MV at this time?

 

[MOTORHEAD]

You can if you want to. I might change this stack if you do.

That looked like a base valve from the standard fork to me, sorry. So you have adjustable preload then, too ?

Do you have any shims or access to any?

 

[NWRider]

The preload adjust by moving the clips on the outside of the cartridge. I have about 7mm on it right now. I guess I could order some shims if I need to.
Thanks

 

[MOTORHEAD]

Since you have a TC fork like ray, then you could just try the same thing he's running.

I was trying to build you something I thought would make the trail trash go away without getting too mushy and able to take an "A" rider hit.

 

[NWRider]

I think I will just start with what you suggested. Making the trail trash go away without getting all mushy is the goal so I appreciate the advice. If I don't like it it's not like it is hard to pull them back apart. The only thing I hate about the whole procedure is bleeding these things.

 

[MOTORHEAD]

Well, just remember it's a first shot. The trade off for the low cost is that you have to do a little R&D. The third stage is something I've been playing with for a while and all of the guys I've set up with it have really liked it. If it wants to settle into the stroke too much for you, try some more preload or a heavier spring. I prefer a heavier spring, myself.