• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

DIY revalve of TC forks?

Well, hold on and try this move first and see what direction it takes you.

If the dealer does suspension work they might have them, but you'll probable have to go to a suspension shop to get them.
 
Ok ... I'll get this tested tomorrow ... I'm thinking of adding more pre-load t reduce the front sag also when I go back inside ... How does that sound?

The bike currently turns very very well the track ... even with the tubes slid all the up to the top of the triple clamps ... the bike squares corners and allows me to take the inside line in most every place on a track ....
 
Hey Mr ray ray...
loving this thread its a great read, + some pictures too.. a proper story..

for my information what are the standard spring sizes in your txc.. front & rear...
id like to know as ive had my 2010 te 310 revalved (different zooks) and it has been awesome for enduro, but in search of better bottoming resistance + less front end dive under front breaking and because its easy to swap them out, im going to just swap out the springs with some 4.8s to try... no other changes.. 4.5in the te for standard!.

regards

Andy
 
I made a quick look at the rear and did not see anything like a number or anything written on it .. Where is any data written at on these? I don't see any numbers on the fork springs either ... their length is 17.25" ... if that helps any ...

MH stated at the top of this that getting trail \ track action correct will be a compromise at best ... I've always hear this and we both are probably looking this beast in the eye right now ... My track riding has to be stiffer or my lap times plus my bike is gonna suffer ...we race for fun mostly here and a few bucks are on the line ... I'd like to have my Husky have a better showing for the crowds ...

Having 2 compression valves with different stacks would be even easier than swapping springs but the bleeding process comes into play when that cap is removed ... If you had 2 inner chambers, valved for each riding type , it would be very easy to swap out also ...
 
ray_ray;130625 said:
Ok ... I'll get this tested tomorrow ... I'm thinking of adding more pre-load t reduce the front sag also when I go back inside ... How does that sound?

The bike currently turns very very well the track ... even with the tubes slid all the up to the top of the triple clamps ... the bike squares corners and allows me to take the inside line in most every place on a track ....
Click to expand...

Sounds good.
 
ray_ray, would you rather focus your forks on moto? Seems that it's more of a priority to you than trail riding.
 
yep ... I need to get the bottoming resistance up some even if it compromises the trail stuff .... I already removed the 12mm from the low speed stack .. is this going the right direction?
 
OK, since we are limited on shims, lets go to a straight stack. Go ahead and pull the 16 and place it under the 17, replace the 13 from the MV with the extra 12, then add the 13 above the bottom 12 and throw that extra 11 in on the very bottom.

So, you are going to have a stack that just steps down in numerical order from 22 to 11.

See if you can dig up two 6mm "fender" washers that aren't any bigger than 22mm O.D. . If you can, make your MV 22,22,19, 12 and then the washer as a base shim.
 
No extra shims for the MID ...I'll have the single 13 mm changed to 12mm change here ... we actually had an 11mm there and not a 13 mm ...
 
MOTORHEAD;129438 said:
Replace the 13mm at the bottom of the MV stack with the 11mm for now.

What to expect? I'd rather just set this as a base line and go from here. You report back what you think of it and we'll see if you need to adjust from there. I don't want to influence what you think by suggesting what you should feel.
Click to expand...

I'll send out what I have shortly as it is all apart now but here is the only change to the MV we have made and is where the 11mm got inserted in the MV .... I was confused also and had to re-read the thread to find the change ...
 
Main(CMP) stack reading from bottom. upwards to the red cap:
22, 22, 22, 21, 19, 17, 16, 15, 13, 12, 11


MID valve reading from the valve, left to right
22, 19, 12, 22

Rebound: No changes.
 
OK, then just move the 12 in MV and make it 22, 22, 19, 12 and we'll see what you think of a straight stack.
 
This change certainly added some bottoming resistance ... :) .. Same track and same jumps that were bottoming yesterday and today about 1.75" travel left on the sticks ...

The bike felt like it was standing up in front also when riding ....The preload clip was moved down another clip and not sure if this was why the bike felt high in front ... I'll check the sag tomorrow ... both front and rear as I ran short today and just had enough time to make it to the track ... Turning was not quite as easy today so I'm not liking the sag or the pre-load change maybe

Set the clickers on the CMP and rebound to 10 CLKs out from closed and made a couple laps .. Not harsh but very firm ... Felt like my 02 CR 250 ... ;) Some landing were a little hard so I started opening the CMP up and ended @ 6 clicks from the top ... rebound was moved 5 more clicks open (default) ...I guess this is speeding it up as I open the valves ...

More testing tomorrow on the track and maybe a second track also :)

Returning home on some rough dirt roads at high speed felt good ... front was firm but absorbed the bumps with nothing harsh, no headshake, no bangs in the bars ... Definite improvement from original stack ...

I'll try to get out on some true ST this weekend and see how feels there ... Firm will be OK there as long as it is not harsh and no deflecting ...
 
Sounds good, because that's about all we have with the shims you've got.

You can always slide the forks up a notch to get the steering back if you like the fork action the way it is. Or, lessen the sag a few MM if you need balance.
 
How would the original main stack with the current MV ride? One day I'm sure I'll want to go back 100% trail and it would be nice to not take the MV apart at that time ....

yep ... I'll look at all that sag stuff tomorrow ..

Would it make any sense to remove a 22 from the LSCS to soften the ride up there any?
 
It's possible that MV will fit all your needs. It should be firm, but not spike the way it is. The 12 on the bottom is giving flexability and more progression.

Removing a 22 will soften it. So, you think it's too shift now?
 
It might be a little too stiff but I need a few days riding to be sure ... I gotta get the sag set again before I can tell exactly what is happening or make any more changes ...

I'm gad to hear the MV is probably good ...

I was making a big effort to get all the air out of the inner chambers before capping them so bleeding was not necessary ... One tube was a success and the other needing bleeding ;( ...
 
I got some more track time ... No ST or trails really yet ...

No bottom outs but close as I was jumping a little harder because I knew the suspension should take it ... I'll keep this stack another week and do more testing ...

This stack looks like something that can be understood ... We have discussed removing a 22 from the LSCS to soften it maybe ... I'll try this in the future when I'm on the trails...

The LSCS is the larger shims at the top ... What would be the other sections of this stack and where does each start and stop?

I rode an 09 YAM 450f today ... nice bike and its stock forks were very firm, like mine at the top and his never got any softer through the stoke, just harder ... No chance of blowing through that stroke ...
 
There is no LSCS on that set-up, it's a straight stack. The first stacks had a LSCS and HSCS. Top top part from the face shim down to the end of the first taper is the LSCS. Where it goes back to a large shim and back down is the HSCS.

If you get some more shim you can work with it more and get that sort of feel the YZF had. If you had all the shims NWRider has it would be better.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top