• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

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Clutch problem.

Nikel

Nikel

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hello

Im having a bit of trouble with my clutch on the Cr500.
It does have a hard time because the bike is only used on the street with Motard wheels.

It slips now and then and i need to adjust it tight inside the cover, otherwise it will drag when in gear.
The clutch-disc where "new" when I bought the bike this spring.

So maybe some new discs and cable need to be fitted.
But HVA-Faktory also have three kinds of springs.

Are they better then stock ones?

//Niklas
 
And another thing.
I have the Steel chain guide and not the Aluminum one.
That cant be right?

Chain%20Guide%201.JPG

chain%20guide%20cpl.JPG
 
Email me a pic of your bike, and I will identify the guide you need. Can I suggest our new 6 spring (if it is a 6 spring) clutch kit with steel plates. Try the springs you have. Also, see 'clutch fix' post on here...

Andy
 
I can't remember how many springs i got in it now but I can check when I come home from work.
I have seen the clutch fix post and will have a look at it.

Do you need better pictures?

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Here's another pic.

I remember that I have aluminum plates in my clutch.
But not the amount of Springs.
 

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The plastic on the bike in the picturs above looks like 87-88 which would be the six spring clutch. I will suggest pulling up and out the clutch actuating part the cable attaches to and see if the part that pushes on the rod is deformed. That would tend to make one adjust "adjust it tight inside the cover". The earlier ones were just a half round the one you have most likely has two facets and doesn't push the rod as far at least the way I see things.
 
I'm taking it to my work and will weld some inconel 625 on it and then shape it again.
 
Have ATF oil in it.
I will buy a new clutch with steel plates.

I fixed the clutch disengage thing now.
 

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I am not so sure that fix will get more push distance. The magnesium case can wear at that point, the more it wears the less effective the seal is a way to compensate might be with the profile of the half round. Andy most likely has put better pictures but here is what I consider two useable and different ones and a worn one. Sure seems to me the half round one with the shorter lever would provide more movement to the rod.
 

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Ohh.
So the half moon is for "worn" parts.
Thought it was two different kinds of levers.

I will try it and see how it goes.
 
i have never encountered slipping with the 6 spring clutch, only dragging and difficulty starting in gear. after fitting phils barnett kit which has steel plates, the bike has zero dragging and starts easily in gear. great upgrade for these bikes.
 
I'm not sure if I have the 6 spring.
But that sounds great.

I have both issues now.
Slipping and dragging.
 
well, then thats doubly bad. i can tell you i bought my 88 250 as nos about 15 years ago and i dont think it ever wanted to start in gear. yours being an 87 is very likely to be the 6 spring. they also have a nice steel clutch basket. im willing to bet the gears on it will go bad before the basket itself.
 
justintendo said:
i have never encountered slipping with the 6 spring clutch, only dragging and difficulty starting in gear. after fitting phils barnett kit which has steel plates, the bike has zero dragging and starts easily in gear. great upgrade for these bikes.
Click to expand...

I can't speak to Phil's barnett kits but 20 or so year old barnett friction plates only have four segments where the sureflex have many radial breaks. They grab hard and plug up and then slip. I never used them in a husky but have used essentially the same thing I describe and have in the bonepile to fit husky.

By all means use steel plates, kind of doubt I have any in my six spring stuff.

As to whether a Husky cr 500 could overpower the clutch, Is it smaller than a Kx500? I wouldn't be shocked if so.
 
phils kit has frictions that look very close to the original surflex..they must have fixed that problem.
 
Hi Nikel,

Back in 1990 when I was having problems with the clutch in my 86 WR400, I had the same problems as you slipping and

dragging clutch.

The fix for me was replace the seal on the clutch lever that comes out of the motor the one the clutch cable attaches to

with a bearing, it is a common size and easy to get.


The other fix was to add one more friction disc (Aluminum Disc) to the clutch pack.

Remove the clutch from the motor take notice does the clutch stack start with a friction disc (Aluminum Disc) or a clutch

plate?

A standard clutch pack starts with a clutch plate and ends with a friction plate (Aluminum Disc).

It needs to start with a friction plate (Aluminum Disc) and end with a friction plate ( aluminum Disc).

Of course steel friction plates are better but they were not available back in 1990 when I was messing with mine.


Now with the clutch removed put all the friction discs (Aluminum Discs) in a pile, squeeze the pile with your thumb and

forefinger and 180 degrees opposite do the same with your other thumb and forefinger.

Is there is any air gap between each plate, looking through the stack?

If there is they are worn out! This is why your clutch is slipping and drags badly.


The other problems with clutches I have encountered, make sure your clutch cable is clean and well oiled, I take the cable

off the bike and use a small funnel on one end, just big enough to get the cable end into the funnel, tape up the funnel

and cable housing, now put some kerosine into the funnel and work the cable inner back and forth until the fluid comes

out clean, now use some oil, I just use engine oil, start working the inner cable back and forth to lubricate the cable, it

takes time but is the best way I have found to properly lubricate cables.


When you put the clutch cable back on the bike try to route it as smoothly as possible, my last bike had three cable ties

securing the clutch cable to the bike that's too many! not needed and made the clutch action very heavy, I am now only

using one cable tie.


Cheers, DaveM.
 
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