• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Check your rear suspension

How are zerks/grease points installed on factory linkages? Are they cast or forged with a hole? Are they machined and then followed possibly by heat treating? I'm wondering this in regards to strength reduction particualrly by retrofitting zerks/grease points.
 
How are zerks/grease points installed on factory linkages? Are they cast or forged with a hole? Are they machined and then followed possibly by heat treating? I'm wondering this in regards to strength reduction particualrly by retrofitting zerks/grease points.
If a proper cutting fluid is used there won't be considerable expansion and/or molecular disturbance. Drill speed is a prominent factor as well. This may shed a little light on the subject: http://its.fvtc.edu/MachShop1/coolant/cutfluids.htm
 
That is an awesome idea, i was looking for something like this. next service of the swingarm i think this will happen.
 
I would post a picture but yours pretty much describes what mine looked like! I found all of the bearings locally except for the only one that is a different size (and most likely to go bad first) which is the one for the shock. The wider bearing fits but the seals won't go in flush so I wrapped the entire end of the shock and link tightly with an old tube until i receive the proper bearing.

I didnt check the swingarm bearing (out of laziness), did you check yours? How was it?
 
I didnt check the swingarm bearing (out of laziness), did you check yours? How was it?

Hey that SA is not too big a deal to check ... And the bearings drive easily if needing replacing ... But is 4 of them ...

The SA has space for longer roller bearings .. Has anyone tried putting an extended length bearing there?
 
ray_ray-"The SA has space for longer roller bearings .. Has anyone tried putting an extended length bearing there?"
yep- had'em, used'em
 
What size drill did you use for the zerks?

What size zerks?

Any chance the zerks will cleave off when you cross a log or something?

I just ripped one out of my '04 Cr125 linkage with a rock hit.
 
What size drill did you use for the zerks?

What size zerks?

Any chance the zerks will cleave off when you cross a log or something?

I just ripped one out of my '04 Cr125 linkage with a rock hit.
Pulling the stub of a broken zerk is significantly less time consuming than replacing bearings
On wet events, you have time at the gas stops to hit the link with a grease gun- flush out crud and extend bearing life
 
On my TE449, it has a couple of zerks, but for each of the other bolts without, I always apply a shot of White Lithium grease to each side of the linkage and work the suspension to spread it around some. I wipe off the extra so as to not attract too much dust. Hoping it will help prevent some of the rust. Then again, you have to be on a mission to find enough water or mud here in Cali after April... and it's a dry desert :D
 
I didnt check the swingarm bearing (out of laziness), did you check yours? How was it?
The swingarm bearings werwe still in great shape. I only had to re-grease them. Indonesians generally take their bikes to a local jet wash place and just let the guys go at it with the sprayer without telling them to stay away from the bearings. the swingarm bearings have a bit of protection that other bearings don't.
 
ray_ray-"The SA has space for longer roller bearings .. Has anyone tried putting an extended length bearing there?"
yep- had'em, used'em
I had to use a longer bearing in the lower shock mount (same size as in the rest of the suspension) because they were out of stock. The seals won't fit with the longer bearing in so I've wrapped the area with an old MTB tube until the new bearing is in stock. Just checked it after a long muddy ride and the bearing's "clean as a whistle". I'll probably keep it wrapped even after changing to the shorter bearing and seals.
 
I had to use a longer bearing in the lower shock mount (same size as in the rest of the suspension) because they were out of stock. The seals won't fit with the longer bearing in so I've wrapped the area with an old MTB tube until the new bearing is in stock. Just checked it after a long muddy ride and the bearing's "clean as a whistle". I'll probably keep it wrapped even after changing to the shorter bearing and seals.
That's a good tip- to zipty a little flap cut from a piece of inner tube onto the front of the linkage to protect the lower shock bearing. This limits direct blast/splash from the front wheel
 
I finally got off my ass and pulled the entire linkage and found 3 bearings totally gone to dust. Ordered the bearings below (20x26x20), got 8 for $72, HK2020UU, which is 4mm too wide for the single bearing spot, I'll use the 20mm like Indorider did, until I can get the 16mm. I'll order the single 16mm wide bearing from Husky I guess. Also, the double bearings cannot be pushed thru, they must be pulled outward, there's a shoulder in the middle of the double bearings.

4XFF9_AS01

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/INA-Needle-Roller-Bearing-4ZZX3?Pid=search
 
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