• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Check your rear suspension

Yes I thought about doing as the 449 has the grease nipple so I will look into that next time I pull it down. Would be good to see if someone knows thread they could add a link to it.
 
I've seen grease nipples done, but I've also seen them torn off as well.

I had one bolt that was starting to rust after 30 hours with very recently sized bearings, new bearings & seals & it's been sweet, though up to 60 hours now, so time for a checkout :).

I'm a pretty big fan of Bel Ray grease, that stuff is magic.
 
Keep in mind, that procedure was done on an older frame/chasssis bike(07 TE250) The new frames use a completely different setup. It's something I've thought about doing, but just haven't got around to it yet. The best approach would likely be to drill the rocker & dogbone pivot bolts and install zerks in the end of the bolts. As for the shock pivot, it would likely need to be done similar to the method I did before.
The swingarm pivots could be done the same way as well.
 
Keep in mind, that procedure was done on an older frame/chasssis bike(07 TE250) The new frames use a completely different setup. It's something I've thought about doing, but just haven't got around to it yet. The best approach would likely be to drill the rocker & dogbone pivot bolts and install zerks in the end of the bolts. As for the shock pivot, it would likely need to be done similar to the method I did before.
The swingarm pivots could be done the same way as well.

And the 08-10 models the linkage and swing arm are VERY easy to disassemble (if well maintained) it does not take too long to have the everything out, regrease, and put back in place. Ultimately, for me I feel confident seeing the condition of things and knowing its greased properly. Zerks could assist in that for sure- but I'd still want to disassemble at some point- and you'd still want to grease the swingarm bearings.... not worth the trouble of installing zerks for me. I think they did a great job in the thread for anyone who wants to go that route though...
 
Got the rear shock back today the niose was coming from the soft damping ball valve and spring they are held in place by a small nut and this had come undone and allowed the ball and spring to float up and down inside the body. All fixed and a shock service at the same time so I will see how the back feels on the weekend when I go for a ride. The guys at Hoey Racing in Adelaide do a good job. That is if i get the swing arm back from getting the broken bolt out for the chain adjuster. I also agree the grease nipple will work but its not that big a job to pull the back down and that way you get a good look at all the seals and bearing as well. Thats what sheds nights are for working on your bike.
 
Great posting. Been thinking about tearing mine down for a full check and you just convinced me that the time is now!
 
I disassembled the linkage when my bike was new and noticed the greasing seemed light from the factory. Also did the steering head bearings as the same time. Not much trouble and much easier to maintain well-greased bearings than dry ones. +1 on the Bel Ray waterproof grease - been using it for years with excellent results.
 
My suspension makes a wierd dead squeeking sucking sound. I have probably 30hrs on bike. 2011 TE310. Any Ideas.

Theirs a good change the sucking sound is coming from your shock from old foamed up oil. The shock breaks in like a motor and forks and Oil should be replaced every so often.

Mixing a small bit of anti-seize with the grease will help a bit. Also, if you run in any water or muddy events, that has a big effect on how often these need servicing. I found it helps a lot if I give a squirt of WD40 to all the pivot & rotating points immediately after every wash, or wet ride. It helps get that water out so the grease can do its job.
If your rear suspension was dry, it's probably time to check your steering head as well.

I do the wd-40 trick with wd-40 or silicone spray as well and think it contributes to healthier linkage and bearings at my regrease intervals.

I regrease the linkage and swing arm once a year(swingarm less depending on how much it go ridden), drop the dog bone and and do the shock one an extra time about mid season. I do the steering every 2 years. Really it depends on what it all looks like when you take it apart- for how long you should go between intervals.

Once you do it twice it becomes so easy that as long as you have a clean bike to start with dropping the linkage and doing all the pivots(with the exception of the swing arm) is easily under one hour job.
 
Theirs a good change the sucking sound is coming from your shock from old foamed up oil. The shock breaks in like a motor and forks and Oil should be replaced every so often.



I do the wd-40 trick with wd-40 or silicone spray as well and think it contributes to healthier linkage and bearings at my regrease intervals.

I regrease the linkage and swing arm once a year(swingarm less depending on how much it go ridden), drop the dog bone and and do the shock one an extra time about mid season. I do the steering every 2 years. Really it depends on what it all looks like when you take it apart- for how long you should go between intervals.

Once you do it twice it becomes so easy that as long as you have a clean bike to start with dropping the linkage and doing all the pivots(with the exception of the swing arm) is easily under one hour job.

I packed my steering head bearings at new & thought I could go every 2 years on my TXC. But, the top bearing seized up right after the end of last season from water getting in there- right at the end of 2 full seasons. It needed to be addressed in the summer(about 1.5 years). There was still lots of grease around the bearing, but it allowed the water to sit in & around the rollers, rusting them and the races. Bottom one was fine. There's now a grease fitting on the steering head and a piece of foam pipe insulation inside to take up airspace.
 
Just did my steering head bearings last month on my 2008 cr144 and I never greased them since new. Bike has around 200 hours with lots of wet riding and has been washed 40-50 times, guess I got lucky. Funny thing is the bearings seemed fine when I put bike away in Nov for winter but when I went to move it in Feb they had seized just sitting. There was lots of grease in bearings but races where rusty and rough and bearings were just wore out.
 
Did you install them in the body of the rocker, or in the bolts? Or both? pics?
The dealer I bought my 09 TE off fitted some grease nipples to mine before he sold it me. i'll take a picture when it gets light and post it up.. he said the one on the bottom of the shocker cannot be nippled this way and still requires disassembly
 
I know everybody has their favorite grease, but you might to try this. It's always worked very well for me. Take a tub of Honda grease and a tube of Honda assembly lube and mix it together. You'll end up with this putrid looking stuff. But it will work in suspension bearings and suspension joints. And for those of us who do not grease are suspension enough, I've seen it last over a year. I know, it's always sunny and 75 degrees here in NorthWet Oregon. Gramps
 
Pulled mine apart today. Bike Has ~4700km 90% trail/10% light road use only - no racing. After what I've heard it isnt suprising that 3/4 bearings are shagged, the other one will be replaced anyway. The images show the parts before thorough cleaning but just after a petrol bath.

An overall view of the bits. The rusty dirty looking pieces in the middle are/were rollers..
04042012953.jpg

This image is an example of what we technically term "buggered". It fell apart when the linkage was removed
04042012955.jpg

04042012957.jpg
This one didn't fall apart, but I will replace it anyway.

How much does each one cost from a dealer?
 
Just take the cages and seals to a big bearing place, MUCH cheaper, but they probably won't have the centres/bushes, just order them from Halls in the US, about half price of what you will get here, OR get an all balls kit? I replaced the shock bearing on mine for about $8 ( and got the bush from Halls for about $10)
 
Just take the cages and seals to a big bearing place, MUCH cheaper, but they probably won't have the centres/bushes, just order them from Halls in the US, about half price of what you will get here, OR get an all balls kit? I replaced the shock bearing on mine for about $8 ( and got the bush from Halls for about $10)

I should have read your post before going to the dealer. They wanted over $15/ bearing, and even more for the sealing ring! I already put an all balls kit on order $200!! Very expensive considering the only broken part was the bearings. All of the spacers/bushings were OK, but I suppose it will be good to start with a fresh kit and keep it maintained.

If I didnt pull it apart to check all would have been well and I would have been riding for 4 days straight over the easter break!
 
Pulled mine apart today. Bike Has ~4700km 90% trail/10% light road use only - no racing. After what I've heard it isnt suprising that 3/4 bearings are shagged, the other one will be replaced anyway. The images show the parts before thorough cleaning but just after a petrol bath.

An overall view of the bits. The rusty dirty looking pieces in the middle are/were rollers..
View attachment 15581

This image is an example of what we technically term "buggered". It fell apart when the linkage was removed
View attachment 15579

View attachment 15580
This one didn't fall apart, but I will replace it anyway.

How much does each one cost from a dealer?
I would post a picture but yours pretty much describes what mine looked like! I found all of the bearings locally except for the only one that is a different size (and most likely to go bad first) which is the one for the shock. The wider bearing fits but the seals won't go in flush so I wrapped the entire end of the shock and link tightly with an old tube until i receive the proper bearing.
 
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