• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Chain Snapped.

M

MitchTE450

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hey guys.

Had big shipment of safety gear arrive other day. keen for a ride. Spent last night getting bike ready, drove hour and a half for a ride, rode for 15 mins and my chain snapped, drove home.. As far as I'm concerned it was in good condition, any idea why it would have snapped?

Also, I know your meant to replace chain and sprockets together. But this will cost me 225 just in parts.

My sprockets are still really good, would it be worth me buying a heavy duty rk chain or similar for 90 bucks, so even though it will wear all quicker then if they were all new parts, do you think it's worth getting the heavy duty chain and at least getting some value from the sprockets rather then replacing them all straight away?

Thanks in advance for any help guys
 
Do/did you have a clip type master link? Is that where it broke? How many miles on the current sprockets?

If not excessively worn or damaged I would most likely keep the rear. The front tends to wear quicker but is fairly inexpensive.

I'll usually go through several front sprockets for every chain and frequently several chains for each rear sprocket.
Casual riding. Not racing.
 
More detail is needed on how the chain failed. Chain might have been adjusted too tight. I'd run the same sprockets and just put on a new chain.
 
Cheers guys. Chain is master link type but it didn't fail there, just failed on a random link. To be honest, I'm not sure if I even shifted gears or anything, or just gave it a squirt, but it let go.
As for miles on sprocket, not sure. As I recently purchased bike with it already on but it can't be too old, looking at its wear.

As a broke uni student, I think I will replace just the chain for now, and see how it goes, will just replace with cheaper, heavy duty one, rather then the fancier racing one, as if it chews sprockets and chain quicker I haven't wasted much money. But a quality RK or similar brand, with attention to regular adjustment, should get me a few more solid days on on the bike I should think.

Thanks again for your imput
 
Just remember that your bike is no slouch. A cheap chain is just that,cheap! Maybe alright for a mini bike, but your bike puts out a lot of torque. That cheap chain could end up costing you a lot more than $225. Save up a few more dollars and have a little piece of mind.
 
268fords said:
Just remember that your bike is no slouch. A cheap chain is just that,cheap! Maybe alright for a mini bike, but your bike puts out a lot of torque. That cheap chain could end up costing you a lot more than $225. Save up a few more dollars and have a little piece of mind.
Click to expand...

I see what your saying, my local husky dealer offers an RK gold o ring (can't remember exact model) which they title as "the best" for 160. If I got this and put on with existing sprockets do you think it would be worth it
 
Nobody can tell you the condition of your sprockets. Just realize that if they are cupped or show any sign of wear, replace one or both. A chain is going to try and conform to your sprockets so might stretch (wear) prematurely. Just compare a new sprocket to what you have and go from there. Make sure your rear wheel is aligned/chain and sprockets are in line/chain adjusted properly. Never seen a chain snap.
 
I layed some new sprocket images over your pics in photoshop to compare and they appear OK.
 
It would be interesting to see a photo of your chain. Could you post a pic of the broken area?

I agree your sprockets look ok. Just do as Johnrg says here...
Johnrg said:
Make sure your rear wheel is aligned/chain and sprockets are in line/chain adjusted properly.
Click to expand...

The teeth on your rear sprocket are blackened. Is that just dirt/grease, or is it dirt/grease baked on due to excessive heat?
Maybe your chain got hot which caused it to fail...
 
Did you take the chain guard off for the picture by chance? Those 2 lines below the teeth in the rear sprocket, are those grooves? I've never seen a chain do that. Could it be the wrong chain was used?image.jpg I know mines dirty right now, but this is mine with 2200 miles
 
MitchTE450 said:
I see what your saying, my local husky dealer offers an RK gold o ring (can't remember exact model) which they title as "the best" for 160. If I got this and put on with existing sprockets do you think it would be worth it
Click to expand...
Guessing from your description of the ad u r buying from R&D Husky? That chain is really good. Just you will have to adjust the tension a bit more frequently than others as it does stretch a little at first.
The stock chain on my TE failed. One of the rollers disappeared and there was severe wear on the rivet where the roller should have been, I luckily caught it before catastrophe. Maybe yours did the same?
 
Chain Slack adjustment can vary from bike to bike. One thing I learned is to near fully compress the suspension and check the chain slack while compressing the rear of the bike. Will provide an indication is the amount of slack you set is correct. Learned this the hard way on a KTM 525, Really sucks to snap a chain 80 miles out in the desert slamming some whoops. And then do it again with your only spare chain link :D
 
Lucky you did not crack the crank case-the chain savers are not too strong I have found out.
I know all bikes are different, however I have never had my real wheel so far forward, maybe you has too much slack in the chain and it is riding high on the rear teeth,
Apaert from that the sprockets are fine just get a good chain.
 
Sorry guys, been away for 4 days.... Admittedly on a huge bender.

Thanks for all this. In answer to the questions, the chain when I was prepping bike the night before I thought was a bit slack but old man thought it was ok, may have been the case.

As for the chain. It's still laying in the dirt in the state forest, forgot to put it in tray after packing ute, wasn't in greatest mood.

The chain couldn't have got hot in the short amount of time I was riding. As for the chain, it is a mystery but it is good reading that the sprockets are fine.

Chain guide I took off cause it got chewed up when chain came off.

I will admit I probably didn't maintain chain as well as necessary. Only recently got the bike, and coming from older less powerful bikes where chain could be neglected without hassle, it's evident on a beast like mine it deserves as much attention as air filters etc before every day riding.

Thanks again
 
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