• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Bottom End Rebuild Advice Needed

wadehouk

wadehouk

Husqvarna
B Class
So here is my delema: After some horse trading, I ended up with a 2007 TE510 with 4,000 miles. I don't have much cash in the bike due to said horse trading. I'm basically an old XR guy and my last new bike was a 95 XR250R which I still have and passed down to my 13-year-old son. Of course, that new XR was purchased pre-marriage, children, divorce, child support, and alimony. So on a 42-year-old cop's salary, a brand new bike isn't in the cards for me.

So I have this newer style bike, and I'm worried about the bottom end. I'm sort of compulsive with maintenance on my toys, and I keep hearing this sort of low "clunk" noise at idle and/or under 2,000-3,000 RPM. At speeds above 3,000 RPM, the bike seems to run smooth and makes plenty of power. It's sort of driving me crazy, so I'm thinking about pulling the motor and sending the bottom end out to have it checked out with the idea that it would be cheaper now before something really bad happens.

So, does anyone here have any recommendations for:

1) A shop with expertise with these motors?
2) Recommendations for problems to look for in the bottom end?
3) How much should I be looking to spend on this "freshening up" of the bottom end?

I'm not as concerned with the top end, since I feel more confident that I can deal with any problems in the top myself. Any opinions/recommendations are appreciated.

Sorry for the long post :-)
 
The bottom ends on those motors tend to be bulletproof, but they can make some strange noises and the gears can bang around a bit, especially with increasing miles. Plus bottom end problems don't tend to disappear with increasing revs. As you said, it runs smooth and makes power, so I wouldn't worry about it too much and take the "if it ain't broke..." approach.
 
Thanks:-). I've read some post of people having bearing problems with less Miles. I'd really like to have the confidence that it's all sorted out before I take it too far into the boonies :-). I'm not trying to waste money, but I'd love to have the peace of mind not to worry that it's going to grenade on me.
 
This thread has a fairly comprehensive, if anecdotal, listing of the things you can reasonably expect as far as mechanical issues:

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/how-many-miles-on-your-husky-and-what-problems.8742/

If you're really paranoid, have an expert wrench who knows how to use a stethoscope give it an inspection. I don't know where you could go in NC, but maybe someone else in that part of the country can chime in.

It's either going to grenade on you, or not. Try not to worry too much, just make sure your boots are comfortable enough to walk in :p
 
Sure it's not just knocking from the intake? I would think that if the bike runs nice and smooth up high that there is no way you have a bottom end that is failing. You couldn't go too long with a rod knock methinks.
 
Are you referring to a noise just while idling or while driving? If its more noisy just while idling with the clutch out in neutral it may be normal. If you want you could take off the clutch cover and inspect the basket & what not.
 
I should have been more specific. At idle, when I pull in the clutch, the noise seems to get quieter.
 
That's sounds alot like the clutch basket. Normal, mine does it as well. I don't know what it's like when the bottom end begins to wear, I've just seen the after effects; cha-ching!
 
Lol, cha-ching is right! Someone tells me that I shouldn't worry and I should just ride it. Honestly though, my brain just isn't wired for that. I'm constantly listening for noises while I'm riding. I heard from a knowledable guy that for a rod kit and main bearings, that I'm looking at $1,500 in the lower end. I was thinking it would be more like $1,000...$500 labor and $500 parts. I guess these are a bit more expensive than my trusty old XR.
 
Whoa! $1500 must include labour to disassemble rebuild and then reassemble motor. My crank rebuild cost $175 not including parts or shipping. Waiting for a rod, pin and bearing took longer than pressing everything together.
 
Now, none of us can hear this sound you describe so you have to excuse our guesses... ok?

you said that it changes or goes away when you pull in the clutch while idling in neutral- that sounds "normal"
- normal in that my KTM did it, and my Husky does that. I don't recall either not sounding different when the clutch was pulled in. That "noise" has been discredited as a concern many times over.

So I say unless its a real definate knock rather than a whirling indefinate "shunk" I'd say you are fine.

They are your ears and your bike- if you are still concerned I'd probably take it to someone as suggested for a second opinion.
 
Planepower said:
Whoa! $1500 must include labour to disassemble rebuild and then reassemble motor. My crank rebuild cost $175 not including parts or shipping. Waiting for a rod, pin and bearing took longer than pressing everything together.
Click to expand...

Are you doing the work yourself?
 
HUSKYnXJnWI said:
Now, none of us can hear this sound you describe so you have to excuse our guesses... ok?

you said that it changes or goes away when you pull in the clutch while idling in neutral- that sounds "normal"
- normal in that my KTM did it, and my Husky does that. I don't recall either not sounding different when the clutch was pulled in. That "noise" has been discredited as a concern many times over.

So I say unless its a real definate knock rather than a whirling indefinate "shunk" I'd say you are fine.

They are your ears and your bike- if you are still concerned I'd probably take it to someone as suggested for a second opinion.
Click to expand...

Yes, I was told that the sound is "normal"? Doesn't sound normal to a guy who rode an XR since 1995, but you guys have so much more experience than me with these bikes. Put about 4-hours on in today. Terribly muddy single track and then a bit of light MX track after I got to tired to keep going on the trails. It chugged right along without any problems, so perhaps I am developing some confidence ;-). Thanks for your words of wisdom.
 
wadehouk said:
Are you doing the work yourself?
Click to expand...

Yes, pretty much. Thankfully i have the service manual and have done several rebuilds over my time.
I order and collect the parts, disassemble, measure and ship components off. Then i reassemble and go.
Only 2 oopses in my times doing rebuilds, enough that now i measure everything to tolerances found in the manual.
 
I'm in the model of a complete rebuild on a TC450 (09), and like the boys are saying, if the sound goes away at higher rpm, u should be good. If it was lets say a bearing it will for sure get worse when picking up speed. From what I am seeing inside the Husky, it is put together very well and very little room for any tolerances. If you did have a bearing going out and such, you would also feel it through your boots and through the handle bar. Pull the clutch basket cover off like Planepower said and look at the clutch plates and the kick starter assembly. It will make sense that if one of the clutch plates were cracked or assembly loose that pulling the clutch will make the noise dissapear sinse everything is compressed. Now this might sound stupid - but look at parts/components/accessories around the rear suspension, rock protector, exhuast and such for loose bolts or cracked fittings.....A lot of times the "devil is in the details". I once had exhaust springs that were loosing there "bite" and the two pipes were just making this weird sound at idle and nothing while moving..u never know.
 
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