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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
Backfiring?
- Thread starter dualie
- Start date
RDTCU
Husqvarna
Pro Class
When is is doing it? When you're rolling off throttle and start engine braking?
RDTCU
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Yep, he's probably running really lean.
dualie
Husqvarna
AA Class
Thanks for the replies. I haven't used the bike much this Winter. Maybe once a month, since October. Having said that, online reading suggests that I might have a small amount of water in the fuel. My first Winter with the bike, but I've tried to fire it up at least once a month, as an alternative to Winterizing it. Going to grab a bottle of HEET for the fuel tank, to see if that'll help.
I don't race, so PU kits and tuners are not on my wishlist. Hey, and if that's the only way to get rid of the backfiring, then I guess I'll have to live with it. LV slip on and lambda deal is prolly' all I'm going to do as far as performance or emissions are concerned. Nonetheless, thanks for the insight.
By the way, it pops when I roll off throttle. Again, very annoying and disturbing.
I don't race, so PU kits and tuners are not on my wishlist. Hey, and if that's the only way to get rid of the backfiring, then I guess I'll have to live with it. LV slip on and lambda deal is prolly' all I'm going to do as far as performance or emissions are concerned. Nonetheless, thanks for the insight.
By the way, it pops when I roll off throttle. Again, very annoying and disturbing.
1lunger
Husqvarna
AA Class
Did you see a increase in power with the JD tuner? What are the other mods you have done to the bike? I really want to know if it's worth installing on the 610? I know the 630 needs it, but can't find any solid info on the JD and 610.
RDTCU
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I wouldn't let it go for very long if it keeps up, you can damage things if it's actually backfiring.
You can also damage the piston and head if it's running really lean.
Is it an honest backfire? As in exhaust gasses coming out of the airbox, or is it just the brrrPOPbrrrrPOP-POP out the exhaust when you roll off? If it's the latter then you're probably just lean. If it's the former, and you have fuel injection, then the bike probably wouldn't be rideable because that would be something majorly screwy going on.
ETA: The power-up plug isn't just for power, it makes a world of difference in the actual ride-ability of the bike, the power is smoother, more linear and more responsive.
MotAd
Husqvarna
AA Class
i had my 2008 sm610 dyno'd after putting a full sys and PU plug on there and it was running way lean. to be honest the PU plug didn't do anything. i didn't notice any difference in the bike after fitting that. to be honest i just think it stops a warning light on the dash. these bikes are lean as stock. even with a slip-on on it'll make it leaner still. if you run your bike in hot weather running excessively lean is really bad news as your engine will be running way too hot and then damage could occur.
i got a power commander fitted to mine and custom mapped and i'm glad i did as it's more the bike i was expecting now
i got a power commander fitted to mine and custom mapped and i'm glad i did as it's more the bike i was expecting now
dualie
Husqvarna
AA Class
Man, totally don't want to spend loot on EFI kits. I will be taking the bike in for inspection when the weather truly breaks, so maybe at that time, it can be sorted out. Nonetheless, anybody know of any PU and JD links for the 2009 SM 610? Searches are coming up empty? Remember checking them out a year ago, when I first got the bike. Backed off b/c of price though.
It's def' lean though. I mean, the power is like a light switch... throws you forward when you roll off and throws you back when you roll on
Wonder why they would tune or program them like that off the showroom floor 
From my experience with nitro truggy RC racing, a lean engine is never a good thing. You don't want it rich, but you don't want it lean either. I tuned my engines a notch below lean, even when racing, to prevent blown engines and rebuilds.
By the way, it's just a subtle fart or pop when rolling off throttle. When you idle rev, it's like " brap-pop, brap-brap-pop "
It's def' lean though. I mean, the power is like a light switch... throws you forward when you roll off and throws you back when you roll on
Wonder why they would tune or program them like that off the showroom floor From my experience with nitro truggy RC racing, a lean engine is never a good thing. You don't want it rich, but you don't want it lean either. I tuned my engines a notch below lean, even when racing, to prevent blown engines and rebuilds. By the way, it's just a subtle fart or pop when rolling off throttle. When you idle rev, it's like " brap-pop, brap-brap-pop "
LRPct
Husqvarna
AA Class
Dont bother with a JD yet.. You need to do the PU and see how that treats you.. Mines run liked a raped ape for about 13K miles now since Ive done the PU... smooth too.. no jerkiness like you have now. The PU is a HUGE improvement for all 610's, don't worry about what you may hear from those with lil experience with the 610s.
dualie
Husqvarna
AA Class
Just read up on the the o2 mod online at SMJ.com. Need to ask, if this is what you guys are suggesting as the first step to richen the fuel mix and to alleviate the backfiring? I ask cos' this mod has many names. So far, it's an o2 sensor mod, a lambda mod and a PU mod? I think everyone is talking about the same thing, just calling it different names, correct?
If so, here's a summary of the SMJ.com thread on how to DIY: http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?70982-How-To-Make-Your-Own-Power-Up-Kit-Lambda-Bypass-Fuel-Injected-610SM:
1) Acquire a 2.2 ohm 1/2 watt resistor, two male connectors and a M18 x 1.5 automotive oil drain plug (electrical tape, heat shrink and zip ties).
2) Disconnect the negative battery terminal and remove the fuel tank and all of it's connectors. *** Have wide and long funnel and a gas can or bucket ready to catch the fuel that's going to come spewing out of the lower fuel line (elbow) and pretty much anywhere else you disconnect a fuel line [closed fuel cocks didn't stop the fuel from flowing like wine] ***
3) Locate the o2 sensor plug and disconnect it from the plug it's connected to.
4) Remove the o2 sensor plug from the exhaust pipe header and replace it with the automotive oil drain plug.
5) Place and crimp the male connectors onto the ends of the resistor. One male connector on each end.
6) Take the plug that the o2 sensor plug was connected to and insert the resistor into that plug. One of the resistor ends connects into the green/red wires and the other end of the resistor connects into the white/brown wires of that plug.
7) Wrap the sensor plug end with electrical tape and then heat shrink wrap it. Tuck and zip tie it to the frame.
8) Put the fuel tank and all of it's connectors back on.
Basically just seeking confirmation that I'm headed in the right direction to get rid of the backfiring and the lean fuel mix. Please confirm.
Also noted is that this mod is typically done after you've installed a slip on. Obviously, I don't have one, but I've read that, while not recommended, you can run this mod with a stock can. To that point, I guess I'll have to fork over the cash for a slip on this season as well. Hopefully I can find a LeoV for $300.00 (USD) or less.
If so, here's a summary of the SMJ.com thread on how to DIY: http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?70982-How-To-Make-Your-Own-Power-Up-Kit-Lambda-Bypass-Fuel-Injected-610SM:
1) Acquire a 2.2 ohm 1/2 watt resistor, two male connectors and a M18 x 1.5 automotive oil drain plug (electrical tape, heat shrink and zip ties).
2) Disconnect the negative battery terminal and remove the fuel tank and all of it's connectors. *** Have wide and long funnel and a gas can or bucket ready to catch the fuel that's going to come spewing out of the lower fuel line (elbow) and pretty much anywhere else you disconnect a fuel line [closed fuel cocks didn't stop the fuel from flowing like wine] ***
3) Locate the o2 sensor plug and disconnect it from the plug it's connected to.
4) Remove the o2 sensor plug from the exhaust pipe header and replace it with the automotive oil drain plug.
5) Place and crimp the male connectors onto the ends of the resistor. One male connector on each end.
6) Take the plug that the o2 sensor plug was connected to and insert the resistor into that plug. One of the resistor ends connects into the green/red wires and the other end of the resistor connects into the white/brown wires of that plug.
7) Wrap the sensor plug end with electrical tape and then heat shrink wrap it. Tuck and zip tie it to the frame.
8) Put the fuel tank and all of it's connectors back on.
Basically just seeking confirmation that I'm headed in the right direction to get rid of the backfiring and the lean fuel mix. Please confirm.
Also noted is that this mod is typically done after you've installed a slip on. Obviously, I don't have one, but I've read that, while not recommended, you can run this mod with a stock can. To that point, I guess I'll have to fork over the cash for a slip on this season as well. Hopefully I can find a LeoV for $300.00 (USD) or less.
RDTCU
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Yes, that is the "PU" mod that we've been discussing. Husky sells the parts for $50, my local dealer threw them in for free when I got the bike, but I had to wait a few weeks to get them. It made a difference.
If you're good with your hands, you can gun and pack your stock can for ~$30 in materials, turning it into a flow-through without a cat or baffles. That's what I did with my 630SMS cans.
ETA: Here's The Thread
If you're good with your hands, you can gun and pack your stock can for ~$30 in materials, turning it into a flow-through without a cat or baffles. That's what I did with my 630SMS cans.
ETA: Here's The Thread
Bunny007
Husqvarna
AA Class
Yes, indeed. Extremely strong in midrange, smoother, no hesitation or popping. Even better and smoother starting and idle. Other mods include power up kit and Leo Vince slip on. You will not regret the $200 spent.
meijerclassics
Husqvarna
AA Class
I had the same issue on my 08 610 till I did the DIY power up. It cost me about $20 for the plug and resistor, and I am still running the tock pipe. I was hesitant about doing it at first, but now I am very glad I did. Got rid of the popping and surging.
1lunger
Husqvarna
AA Class
Great feedback! I will order and install the JD tuner for my 610 this spring. I can only imagen the benefits from this JD tuner. The bike runs great with LV slip on and PU installed, but the idea of a bit more from the JD tuner has me very excited! I don't think I'm running lean right now, but rather be sure I'm not with JD installed.
RDTCU
Husqvarna
Pro Class
It's plug and play. You pull the tank (or just lift it) plug into the injector, plug into the harness where you unhooked the injector, and find a ground somewhere. I mounted mine under the seat, rear of the fuse block. Set everything to 3 for no effect, and go from there. There are several threads with settings on here for various setups.