All 2st About the Mikuni/Keihin swap:

[hrc630]

No slack, i have also ajusted it.

I will try tonight with the clip needle at is top position (lean) and with the clip needle at the lower position to see the difference.

 

[hrc630]

If i can have a JD kit right now, i will pay $100 for it, its not the question. I just dont want to wait 2 weeks for them. I have access to all oem Keihin needle since my friend is a Keihin supplier for the Quebec (DL Performance). If i can have the spec of the JD Needle i can probably match them (or close) in the inventory of Keihin needle.
Same thing for that oem Yamaha N3VE needle.

I whant to ride the bike now !

 

[PC.]

No specs on the needle.

PC, not EZ to make something that long and skinny with those tolerances. I do not think he is ripping people off but people do feel that way at times. I do think his needle works better in my 125.

I just like to gripe

If he would sell just the 2 needles for $50-60 and NOT make me buy main jets that I already own then I'd buy it. It's the principal of selling me crap I already own and being unwilling to budge is what irks me.

 

[PC.]

Try the N3EJ. It cant cost more than $7 and will at least let you know if the needle is the culprit. That's worth $7 to me!

 

[Motosportz]

I just like to gripe

If he would sell just the 2 needles for $50-60 and NOT make me buy main jets that I already own then I'd buy it. It's the principal of selling me crap I already own and being unwilling to budge is what irks me.

I hear you. Thats what the carb with the jets is such a good deal. I was able to get mine to run well the the DDJ but liked the JD blue better. noticeable difference.

 

[kzoo]

Is your off idle problem feel like the choke is still on even when it's not? If you warm up the bike and ride around try pulling out the choke and see where that gets you. That'll help point you in the right direction.

 

[PC.]

A competent machinist can machine your slide to run leaner, but there's no going back once the mod is done.

If money were no object, eh?
Just buy one of everything and have it all at your fingertips.

 

[hrc630]

OK, i just came from the garage and i have try the clip needle in the top (leaner) and the clip in the bottom (rich). The bike work really better with the needle at is leanest position (clip in the toP), but not good enought.

Tomorrow i will try a couple of other needles.
Anyone have the spec of the n3ej needle.

I dont understand why i can have at least a rideable bike with the ddj needle...

 

[kzoo]

I think the N3EJ will be richer than the DDJ at the same clip position. Depending on the clip position you'll be leaner 0-1/8

 

[WoodsChick]

Ok, I rode my bike with the PWK carb weekend before last at Metcalf, a local OHV park run by the county. I wasn't all that pleased with the results...and it's no wonder, when compared with what I have in there now. I ended that day with a 185 MJ, 42 PJ, clip #2, #8 slide (started with a #6) and stock PV springs with PV arm adjusted all the way up. We basically ran out of daylight and figured we'd ramp up again this weekend.

Fast forward to this past Saturday. We headed up to Middle Creek in the Mendocino NF and camped and rode all day Saturday and most of Sunday in the rain and snow.

This is what I started with...

MJ 178
PJ 45
Blue Needle 4th position
#8 slide
AS 1.5
44:1 Yamalube and 91 octane pump gas
Green and Yellow PV springs
PV arm adjusted 3/4 up

We were camped at about 2400' and rode up to about 4000', 41 degrees when we left camp...much, much colder when we returned
We were loaded with jets, needles, slides, valve springs, tools...the works. I was determined to get this thing perfect before Sunday evening rolled around.

We rode 50 miles on Saturday and 35 good miles on Sunday and never once touched a thing!

It started first or second kick all day and idled perfectly...but then again, it did that with the Mikuni, too, so It pulled nicely from the bottom to the top, no flat spot, seemed to have a smoother hit with plenty of warning before doing so, and then seemed to have just a little less on top than before, which is perfectly fine for most of the riding that I do. It only spooged a teeny tiny bit on Saturday and I'm sure that was just leftover spooge from the dark days of the Mikuni.
Eric wiped it all off and there was nothing there at the end of the day on Sunday

I can now putt around in 3rd gear all day being lazy and get away with it...on a 125...:jawdrop: Sorry folks, but this still totally blows my mind. I can also keep it in the sweet spot just before the power valve opens and make use of the plentiful power, knowing that an extra burst of 125 goodness is only a teeny tiny twist of the wrist away. I don't think my front wheel hit a puddle all day...and there were plenty of them The initial hit when the pv opens is smoother, which is much more useful for the stuff I like to ride, and it seems to rev out longer while open...like the power band is much wider than before.

I was really happy with the way the WR ran. Eric always wants to adjust this a little, or change that a bit, or tweak those just a touch. He's an old roadracer and in his opinion things can always be better. And he's usually right But we'd both been working on this bike more than I've been riding it and, quite frankly, I was just ready to ride it and enjoy it. We may make some changes down the road, but for now it's running like a champ and it's putting a gigantic smile on my face...and isn't that the whole point?

We'll be tearing it apart this week and will be shipping the suspension off to Les at LT-Racing, regreasing everything and repacking the silencer with clean packing. I must say, the suspension on the WR isn't as bad as I had feared. I couldn't compress the stock suspension on my 610 for love nor money, and I was expecting the same on the WR, but it's pretty close. Of course, I've softened it up about as much as I can and am almost out of adjustments, but it's worlds better than I thought it would be out of the box. I love how the bike just instinctively goes where I want it to go. I can put that front wheel where ever I want, whenever I want to, with no drama whatsoever.
It seems to be very stable for such a light bike, and doesn't get upset by ruts and such. It never does anything weird, and it doesn't seem to deflect on stuff that I would think it would. It's extremely confidence-inspiring. And when things do sort of verge on out-of-control, it seems really effortless to get it back on track. I always thought Eric's EC250 with Ohlins front and rear was the best-handling bike I'd ever ridden, but we both agree that's not the case anymore. Sure, his suspension is working better than mine at the moment, but the `09 WR125 is a different animal, for sure. It seems to be very neutral, without a bias towards the front or the rear.

Anyway, I'm straying far from the Mikuni/PWK subject here, so I'll wrap this up now. Just thought I'd let y'all know what we came up with this weekend

I think it's safe to say I'm riding shotgun on the PWK bandwagon



WoodsChick

 

[Johnnymannen]

Ok, I rode my bike with the PWK carb weekend before last at Metcalf, a local OHV park run by the county. I wasn't all that pleased with the results...and it's no wonder, when compared with what I have in there now. I ended that day with a 185 MJ, 42 PJ, clip #2, #8 slide (started with a #6) and stock PV springs with PV arm adjusted all the way up. We basically ran out of daylight and figured we'd ramp up again this weekend.

Fast forward to this past Saturday. We headed up to Middle Creek in the Mendocino NF and camped and rode all day Saturday and most of Sunday in the rain and snow.

This is what I started with...

MJ 178
PJ 45
Blue Needle 4th position
#8 slide
AS 1.5
44:1 Yamalube and 91 octane pump gas
Green and Yellow PV springs
PV arm adjusted 3/4 up

We were camped at about 2400' and rode up to about 4000', 41 degrees when we left camp...much, much colder when we returned
We were loaded with jets, needles, slides, valve springs, tools...the works. I was determined to get this thing perfect before Sunday evening rolled around.

We rode 50 miles on Saturday and 35 good miles on Sunday and never once touched a thing!

It started first or second kick all day and idled perfectly...but then again, it did that with the Mikuni, too, so It pulled nicely from the bottom to the top, no flat spot, seemed to have a smoother hit with plenty of warning before doing so, and then seemed to have just a little less on top than before, which is perfectly fine for most of the riding that I do. It only spooged a teeny tiny bit on Saturday and I'm sure that was just leftover spooge from the dark days of the Mikuni.
Eric wiped it all off and there was nothing there at the end of the day on Sunday

I can now putt around in 3rd gear all day being lazy and get away with it...on a 125...:jawdrop: Sorry folks, but this still totally blows my mind. I can also keep it in the sweet spot just before the power valve opens and make use of the plentiful power, knowing that an extra burst of 125 goodness is only a teeny tiny twist of the wrist away. I don't think my front wheel hit a puddle all day...and there were plenty of them The initial hit when the pv opens is smoother, which is much more useful for the stuff I like to ride, and it seems to rev out longer while open...like the power band is much wider than before.

I was really happy with the way the WR ran. Eric always wants to adjust this a little, or change that a bit, or tweak those just a touch. He's an old roadracer and in his opinion things can always be better. And he's usually right But we'd both been working on this bike more than I've been riding it and, quite frankly, I was just ready to ride it and enjoy it. We may make some changes down the road, but for now it's running like a champ and it's putting a gigantic smile on my face...and isn't that the whole point?

We'll be tearing it apart this week and will be shipping the suspension off to Les at LT-Racing, regreasing everything and repacking the silencer with clean packing. I must say, the suspension on the WR isn't as bad as I had feared. I couldn't compress the stock suspension on my 610 for love nor money, and I was expecting the same on the WR, but it's pretty close. Of course, I've softened it up about as much as I can and am almost out of adjustments, but it's worlds better than I thought it would be out of the box. I love how the bike just instinctively goes where I want it to go. I can put that front wheel where ever I want, whenever I want to, with no drama whatsoever.
It seems to be very stable for such a light bike, and doesn't get upset by ruts and such. It never does anything weird, and it doesn't seem to deflect on stuff that I would think it would. It's extremely confidence-inspiring. And when things do sort of verge on out-of-control, it seems really effortless to get it back on track. I always thought Eric's EC250 with Ohlins front and rear was the best-handling bike I'd ever ridden, but we both agree that's not the case anymore. Sure, his suspension is working better than mine at the moment, but the `09 WR125 is a different animal, for sure. It seems to be very neutral, without a bias towards the front or the rear.

Anyway, I'm straying far from the Mikuni/PWK subject here, so I'll wrap this up now. Just thought I'd let y'all know what we came up with this weekend

I think it's safe to say I'm riding shotgun on the PWK bandwagon



WoodsChick

Hey Woodschick! What slide did you have before you changed it? Why id you change it and where is the improvement in the powerband? I have a 7# in my 300 and was thinking of trying 8# or something to see if my 1/8 throttle bludder would go away. What do you think of that?

Johnny

 

[WoodsChick]

Hey Woodschick! What slide did you have before you changed it? Why id you change it and where is the improvement in the powerband? I have a 7# in my 300 and was thinking of trying 8# or something to see if my 1/8 throttle bludder would go away. What do you think of that?

Johnny

Well, it makes sense to me, but I'd try to jet it away first before purchasing another slide. JD sells them for about $53. I was going to purchase a #7 since that's what the kitted carbs have in them, but he said to hold off on it as he thought I'd have plenty of adjustment with the stuff I already had. I had a #6 in there first. The #8 seems to give me a little more snap right off the bottom. There's no waiting when cracking the throttle. I don't know if the difference would have been so great between a #7 and a #8, though. I'm going to borrow a #7 from a friend of mine just to see what the difference is, but I can't really see where it's going to improve anything.



WoodsChick

 

[Johnnymannen]

Well, it makes sense to me, but I'd try to jet it away first before purchasing another slide. JD sells them for about $53. I was going to purchase a #7 since that's what the kitted carbs have in them, but he said to hold off on it as he thought I'd have plenty of adjustment with the stuff I already had. I had a #6 in there first. The #8 seems to give me a little more snap right off the bottom. There's no waiting when cracking the throttle. I don't know if the difference would have been so great between a #7 and a #8, though. I'm going to borrow a #7 from a friend of mine just to see what the dif

WoodsChick

Ok, thanks for the info so far! Is there a 9# available? The other solution would be to find a needle that is leaner right off throttle, but i´m satisfied with the JD needle otherwise, so the question is wich way to go! It´s difficult for me here in sweden to call JD and have a good discussion too. There´s quite some spooge when i ride on small throttleopenings. It would be intresting to hear from you when you have tried the7# slide! There is a slight "Brrrapp" when i open throttle quickly but just a little bit.

Johnny

 

[Philbilly]

2009 WR125 PWK trail tested

Temps 85-90, elevation about 1500 ft. I put about 40 miles on my bike with what came in the PWK carb: 185 main, 45 pilot and I guess it was the JD blue needle since the red was an extra. I moved the clip to the 3rd pos and the PV arm moved all the way up. Since I bought the bike used, I had a budget to spend some more on mods and I replaced the carb before even taking the Mikuni out for a trail ride. Like ya'll said, this thing can lug-I was amazed and the carb ran great but I had quite a bit of spooge.

Temps 60-80, elevation about 1000 ft. Put another 40 miles went to a 180 main and 42 pilot. I didn't notice much difference in the way it ran-which shows it's not real finicky. I may have felt a little less torque off idle in the morning when it was cooler-at the heat of the day it seemed to run with more torque off idle-or was I just imagining it (maybe getting tired-ha). All in all, this bike is amazing! Heads and tails above my 2003 Honda CR125. Any suggestions let me know!

 

[hrc630]

Hi, from what i have talk with the Keihin guru here, the equivalent of the Yamaha N3VE needle is the N427-48CEQ from keihin.

Tonight i will try this needle + the CEL and CEJ needle.

I cross my finger for a good result.

 

[hrc630]

I just return from a small ride to try different needles.
The best result i have is the CEL (clip top position) witch is supposed to be pretty close to the Yamaha N3VE needle.
The buttom end and response is really better and was a big improvement but not as good as what i have with the Mikuni.
The mid and top end are really incredible, this bike surprise me every time i ride it

With this setting (178 main, 42 pilot, CEL needle in leanest position) the bike is now rideable but the buttom end definitly lack power and the transition from lower rpm to midrange is very abrut and violent.
Is it possible that my pilot is again to big ???

Also, when i close the trottle, the engine make some "ding ding ding" when it slow down.

Thanks again for your input.

Francis

 

[Norman Foley]

I just return from a small ride to try different needles.
The best result i have is the CEL (clip top position) witch is supposed to be pretty close to the Yamaha N3VE needle.
The buttom end and response is really better and was a big improvement but not as good as what i have with the Mikuni.
The mid and top end are really incredible, this bike surprise me every time i ride it

With this setting (178 main, 42 pilot, CEL needle in leanest position) the bike is now rideable but the buttom end definitly lack power and the transition from lower rpm to midrange is very abrut and violent.
Is it possible that my pilot is again to big ???

Also, when i close the trottle, the engine make some "ding ding ding" when it slow down.

Thanks again for your input.

Francis

Usually if you get "ring ding ding" when you close the throttle, the pilot is too small.

 

[Philbilly]

Yeah, sounds like you are on the lean side...how many turns out is your air screw? Correct me if I'm wrong but it should be 1.5 to 3 turns out (further in is richer). Your hard hit could be caused by too rich or too lean, but the ding ding ding is too lean.

 

[wallybean]

HRC630,

In my WR250 I had great luck with the CEL needle but I was running the 45 pilot and I am quite a bit higher than you. I ran the needle in the center position but I also had a much leaner main jet. Once again I was riding it from 4000' to 9000'+ and it ran clean with great responsiveness and power everywhere.

Walt

 

[hrc630]

Thank you very much !!!
Tonight i will try again with a bigger pilot.
I will try the 45 and 48 plus play again with the needle.

Also, what slide do you ride ? Mine is a #7


Francis