• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

510 service facts needed

suprize

suprize

Husqvarna
Pro Class
just picked up a sweet 84 510 in pretty orig condition.

what oil does it need?
what spark plug is recommended"
front fork oil? best wt?
any other suggestions?

it looks like a team bike that was sold off and the next owner did pretty much road kms with it. motor seems ok, excellent compression (bruised foot arch already) starts first kick when you get it right and seems pretty snappy on the throttle (haven't ridden it yet).

any suggestions and tips will be appreciated (I know there are posts back there but be ideal to get some directions to them. cheers and thanx
 

Attachments

  • P6140021.JPG
    P6140021.JPG
    69.4 KB · Views: 44
  • P6140024.JPG
    P6140024.JPG
    55.6 KB · Views: 42
  • P6140033.JPG
    P6140033.JPG
    64.2 KB · Views: 44
  • P6140034.JPG
    P6140034.JPG
    75.6 KB · Views: 41
dont these have the two piece valves that need upgraded to solid versions? nice looking bike. love the dual exhaust on these
 
HPIM4888 - Copie.JPG
You can upgrade your 510 with a 510 TELC bottom end which has oil connection
to back of the rod, and 610 TE ducati ignition and black coil.
Bobine Ducati.JPG
 
This will be a trailer queen so I don't need anything other than an owners manual! (I hope).. whats the best oil to run in them? what is the std plug?

I will go thru the top two threads of Michels and review!

thanx for all the guff... I love the maroon tank Gustafson bikes.....if I decide to make a rider out of this I might box up the white plastics and go with that color scheme...looks so good
 
Very few originals in that condition, good thing to leave it as a trailer queen. Value. Lovely machines.
Service the oil strainer on barrel regularly and replace with more modern all steel unit, the old plastic caged ones conk out.
Service K&N airfilter and never use compressed air to dry them. It blows big holes in the cotton pleating.
Valve lash 0,1mm inlet and 0,15mm outlet. You only have to worry about the 2piece valves if you are going to run the daylights out of it.
Replace the RAL reed valve, very important.
Replace crank seal behind flywheel.
If ever you want to turn it into a serious runner replace those super quiet and restrictive silencers with something better, big difference.
 
More power:eek: your joking....who would ... never mind, im a 250 riding wimp that's just mastering a 400!

thanks for that info.

I see the only bolt that appears to have been regularly "spannered" is the oil filter bolt so its seen some attention. where do you get steel ones? is there a later model replacement unit from the LC's?

my motor is a wo11 frame numbered unit which the manual says is the later model valves so im not sure what's what there.

I haven't looked under the seat but the last owner gave me 2 new foam air filters that look suspiciously like the one on my wr 400 (says 510) so I will have a peep and see what in there.

I know ol mate in 84 ran one hard for two years without any issues so I suspect this will be ok as well.

im starting a house build (and big shed) so it will be back burnered till all that's done then I will give it a serious lookover and set it up for some careful rides.

What brand oil do you use?
 
I use Belray 10w40 thumper oil, change it a lot, cause like the automatic's it's real important for a long life. And yeap that haul the mail, at Unadilla I was told I was smoking the 2 stroke
open bikes up the up hill sections :D .

Husky John
 
Check the cam chain tension. Start with a new cam chain.
Use a cam chain link with a circlip.
I use 5w50 oil.
20 or 30 in front fork.
 
I have just received the expanded mesh to make new barrel oil filters - as they have gone out of production...

Andy Elliott
 
excellent news to all above. thanks for the info, I plan to gather as much of this stuff in my head then take the bike to Mr Mc Hanic and do a valve clearance check and cam tension etc (may replace chain as its cheap) prob inspect the valve gear and do a full service.
It has enormous compression. im 82kgs (not a man mountain) but it stops my feeble kicking with contempt! (it said "is that all you've got?? Ha!")

I will get some go pro happening when I ride it for all to see a terrified man hanging on for grim death
 
took it for a quick spin up the road and found it running quite rich of the throttle and in the first part of the range to half throttle. Spent 20 mins and pulled the seat and tank and slide out of the carb and dropped the needle 1 clip.

This gave a much better idle and response with the blubber gone but it was too dark to ride it so I will test it today.

Carb slide is badly worn and I noted that screwing in the fuel mix screw did little till it bottomed out then a change started to happen so I suspect air and or fuel leaking everywhere in the carb. poor sealing.

Probably need a new carb and Mr Lectron has filled me in on the virtues of his magical product but I will be sitting on it for a while so I will back burner it for the mo.

The air filter was a k&N paper one but the air box has shrunk a bit and it has been touching the filter and has rubbed a hole in it. can I still get those k&N type?

there is no baffle mesh in the airbox is this an issue?

cheers and thanks for your advice
 
there is no baffle mesh in the airbox is this an issue?

That's in there to prevent fires from backfires, & from what I've read it's not that uncommon.
 
I got some feedback on ozvmx from him. did you check out my youtube channel" "riders in the scrub"?
 
The water cooled versions are self adjusting - spring loaded. Not sure about the air cooled versions.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top