• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

449/511 Important Urgent Flywheel Inspection

mlorenzini said:
Cosmokenney, what year is your bike? Did you buy it new or used? I wonder if any came from factory with Loctite already on the bolts?
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Bought it brand new from the dealer. It's a 2013. I'm sure this is just like the grease on these huskies. Some have it, some don't. Depends on how close to the weekend your bike was built -- or something.
 
Oh, one more thing. What is the torque for the cover screws? I didn't see that mentioned. I would guess not very tight.
 
mlorenzini said:
Oh, one more thing. What is the torque for the cover screws? I didn't see that mentioned. I would guess not very tight.
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I think ~12...15Nm with old gasket is OK (Manual says - 11Nm with new) :). Tighten bolts crossway, from center to sides. Gasket and surfaces need to clean and dry.
 
ok thanks Normann. So what is the reason to use Loctite 290? It's $10 to buy it. I already have medium blue. Is that sufficient? The 290 is for pre-assembled fasteners. Just wondering about it.
 
mlorenzini said:
ok thanks Normann. So what is the reason to use Loctite 290? It's $10 to buy it. I already have medium blue. Is that sufficient? The 290 is for pre-assembled fasteners. Just wondering about it.
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I believe 290 was recommended due to the oil resistance.
 
Normann said:
I think ~12...15Nm with old gasket is OK (Manual says - 11Nm with new) :). Tighten bolts crossway, from center to sides. Gasket and surfaces need to clean and dry.
Click to expand...

I was taught by an old timer that gaskets containing oil should be tightened on the bottom first.
 
Checked mine and was fine at 2400miles. Bumped it with the torque wrench at a bit more than the service manual spec iirc and it did not budge. So they likely are threadlocked already or were torque tighter from the factory or my wrench was off. Next I will be checking the clutch side of things soon.
 
Wish I'd check mine. :-(

The new one was $450 from motosport.com and it came with threadlock on them. Didn't stop me from adding more red threadlock.
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BTW, only one of the six bolts were still tight, one had backed out completely, the other 4 were loose and on there way out.
 
The stock original type Allen head bolts are known to have the heads snap off too. Best to replace them with standard highest grade Metric hex head fasteners. or some quality fasteners from ARP. This is not just a BMW problem here the Husky 449's and 511's are the same thing and use the same fasteners.

See below: This post is from another forum: and is from only 2 weeks ago.
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Originally Posted by Tims1572

There have been many occasions that the stator screws or flywheel screws have come loose on the 450 BMWs and the 449/511 Husky's and it has torn up the stator like in the images posted by Doowrag above.

If you haven't already taken 20 minutes and looked inside to see the condition of the fasteners for the stator in the left case to check yours out. Please do so to make sure everything is tight. If any of the screws are loose, I would remove and replace them if you have new ones as BMW suggests. A good clean with some brake cleaner or equivalent and a blast of compressed air then use some Loctite for a hot and oily environment.

I would strongly suggest that you do this inspection as it could save you a bunch of cash and headache not to mention a possible long push or tow home out of the bush.
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I have just given my engine a freshen up and followed Tims advise and have dodged a bullet...thanks Tim. The head of one stator screw twisted off without any effort while checking with an allen key
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I was only moments away from a costly failure. These screws have a 3mm dia hole that extends down to the first thread, which is where mine broke. A 3mm hole in a 6mm screw severely reduces the cross section, WTF was BMW thinking
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I couldn't believe it when I picked up the screw head and could see straight through the allen key recess and 3mm of shank
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Has anyone else noticed this on these screws? Tim could you check your spares?

If you have a close look at this photo provided by Doowrag awhile back you will notice a number of screws have broken at the junction of the shank and thread. This is because the cross section has been SEVERELY reduced at this point as a result of a 3mm hole/counter bore which extends down to this point from the base of the Hex.
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Suggest(unfortunately in packs of 5 - you will need 2 packs)

ARP Kit #: 760-1016

Metric Thread Bolt Kit
ARP Stainless
M6 x 1.00
12mm UHL

8mm Hex wrenching
Torque Value*: 11 ft-lbs (14.9 Nm)

OR

ARP Kit #: 660-1016

Metric Thread Bolt Kit
8740 Chrome Moly
M6 x 1.00
12mm UHL

8mm Hex wrenching
Torque Value*: 11 ft-lbs (14.9 Nm)
*Torque value in repair manual is way too high at 25nm
 
Here is a follow up post for the above information. If you click on the picture in the above post, you can see the broken off screws and what can happen.

Shown here is the BMW gaskets or as they call it, " Repair kit for alternator" The stock factory screws snap off where the threads start. And the gasket kit comes with the same type screws. The torque spec for these fasteners in the BMW G450X CD repair manual say to torque these six screws to 25NM. Which is nearly double what these screws of this size should be torqued too. Which is about 11ft lbs. or 14.9 NM. Which is standard for this size fastener.


This was posted by me 2 Weeks Ago:

Tims1572
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Moderator G450riders.org
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Here's what I said to the above member who dodged a bullet, finding a snapped off head immediately while just checking his flywheel screws with just an Allen head key in his hand before even thinking about re-torqueing.

See below and I posted a picture of the gasket kit with the hardware. The screws have not changed. Use better quality fasteners and don't over torque them.
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Yes mine are from BMW and they are the same. Counter bored after the Allen's socket was broached into the heads of the screws. It is BS. This must of been such a problem and still is, look at what they call the gasket kit. It comes with a new woodruff key, outer case thrust washer, washer for the flywheel, the flywheel nut, along with 6 screws pre treated with a dry Loctite compound and the 9 side cover bolt washers for them also.​
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Any idea why they have the drilled portion? Is it weight reduction or just a pilot for the broach? Not checked mine, will do so at next oil change. I'm not too sure the wicking grade loctite is the trick. We use several "oil resistant " loctite products but from what I think I know, that refers to application with lightly oily threads. All their common products should be fine for running in oil at 260 deg f. I would leave it for several hours, preferably 24, before putting the oil in the motor. I'm not in the shop but I think loctite 263 is the red or "permanent " stuff we use. I trust it in hot oil. On a strong m6, it will come out without heat. No question, some heat, even 200F. Will soften it for less issue at removal. Won't brake down until after 400+ F.
 
I couldn't tell you why there is an extra deep hole swaged beyond the broaching of the Allen hex into the head of these screws but it sure does sacrifice strength in the top and head of the threaded shank area.

I've had standard grade 8 Allen head cap screws up to 1/2 diameter have the heads snap off in race engine applications.

They certainly didn't have the second hole beyond and down into the threaded shank section. Nearly half the size of the Allen head itself. These screws are Garbage. Specialty low profile head or not they are junk.
 
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