• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

449/511 Breather hose mod

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Rearwheelin said:
I called ZipTy today and wanted a drain plug with a hose barb to match the size of the breather hose.... Kid never called me back on my custom request. Out of the XF too . Hook me up Tinken :)
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Here is the oil fill plug designed for the oil recovery system.
http://www.ziptyracing.com/husqvarna-oil-fill-plug-for-oil-return-mod-2011-2013-tc-te-txc-smr-449-511/

You will have to drill and tap threads into it, use RapidTap for better threads. Pick up a threaded brass hose barb at Home Depot and use Loctite instead of teflon tape.

I'm not sure if we sell an oil drain plug, I will have to check thread sizes. If not, Clay does, although you will have to remove the magnet I believe or he may have stock without magnets?
 
Wow, I've never seen 2000cc's of oil in!

Oh and Mobil1 0w-40 Euro Formula has the exact same shear strength as Motorex 10w-40, one viscosity weight higher than Castrol 10w-40 Racing 4t and will actually make the engine run cooler. I have ran it at 106°F across Lucerne Valley with zero issues.
 
If I make a system I will have mine moded. Will drill threw the Allen hole leaving enouph wrench thread for the Allen to bit then tig or heliarc a bunk on it. Are the threads on the cap same as drain ? Looks like a square drive.... No oil out the breather after system warmed up. At one point when the engine was cooler I got a good flow out the breather with 1600cc in but could not replicate it again later on even with 2000cc.
 
Tinken said:
Wow, I've never seen 2000cc's of oil in!

Oh and Mobil1 0w-40 Euro Formula has the exact same shear strength as Motorex 10w-40, one viscosity weight higher than Castrol 10w-40 Racing 4t and will actually make the engine run cooler. I have ran it at 106°F across Lucerne Valley with zero issues.
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I have some good video for this coment :) will up load it tonight, off to santafe springs now !
 
Tinken said:
Here is the oil fill plug designed for the oil recovery system.
http://www.ziptyracing.com/husqvarna-oil-fill-plug-for-oil-return-mod-2011-2013-tc-te-txc-smr-449-511/

You will have to drill and tap threads into it, use RapidTap for better threads. Pick up a threaded brass hose barb at Home Depot and use Loctite instead of teflon tape.

I'm not sure if we sell an oil drain plug, I will have to check thread sizes. If not, Clay does, although you will have to remove the magnet I believe or he may have stock without magnets?
Click to expand...
I don't care for the oil return being so close to my shifter , it seems like a really vulnerable area. You mentioned your system seemed to vunel it between the fill cap and breather if I understood you correctly and that is your reason for wanting to do a valve cover ? During my tests I concerned that the breather plays a key roll in the way oil circulates threw the motor. I think that any oil build up in the breather will lead to the breather system cycling oil. Straight sloped tubing should be used so oil run off in the breather line stays free flowing and the oil return line should aswell be sloped for good drainage and minimal bends... Also I think 2000cc is a bit much so I think 1600 is a safer capacity. I'm going to get that fill cap and scratch the drain plug barb. I like the right side mounting hole that's perfect for mounting the tank.
 
Rearwheelin said:
I don't care for the oil return being so close to my shifter , it seems like a really vulnerable area.
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Yes, and it is unnecessary. Remember that the oil storage on the right is connected to the oil storage in the center rear which is also connected to the drain plug. So when increasing crankcase capacity, it makes no difference to come off the drain plug, the fill plug or a custom plug.

Rearwheelin said:
You mentioned your system seemed to vunel it between the fill cap and breather if I understood you correctly and that is your reason for wanting to do a valve cover ?
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No, the reason to have the breather in the valve cover is so that you can raise oil levels to the point that they submerge the torque limiter with oil. This will keep it cool and reduce failure due to excessive heat. When submerged, the torque limiter passes oil, because it is the opening of the stock breather point. By changing the breather point to the valve cover, this over heating can be eliminated.

Rearwheelin said:
During my tests I concerned that the breather plays a key roll in the way oil circulates threw the motor. I think that any oil build up in the breather will lead to the breather system cycling oil. Straight sloped tubing should be used so oil run off in the breather line stays free flowing and the oil return line should aswell be sloped for good drainage and minimal bends...
Click to expand...
What I saw happening in your videos was you plugging the breather hole. Naturally this will increase the internal pressures of the crankcase and force oil out. Other than that, the breather does not control oil flow in the Kymco engine.

Rearwheelin said:
Also I think 2000cc is a bit much so I think 1600 is a safer capacity. I'm going to get that fill cap and scratch the drain plug barb. I like the right side mounting hole that's perfect for mounting the tank.
Click to expand...
Remember that the Kymco engine is a Dry Sump. This means that no matter how much oil is stored in it's crankcase, the oil in the crankshaft area will remain the same. In fact, one of the two Eaton oil pumps is devoted to removing oil from the crankshaft area and returning it to the pressurized flow. You may continue to add the extra oil as long as it has somewhere to go during expansion. Now obviously you do not wish it to expand too far up the timing chain cavity, but that area is available for expansion, IF you have the valve cover breather modification.
 
I spoke to Ty yesterday about the crankcase breather bottles which we will be producing. Lead time will be about four weeks away due to other projects lined up ahead of schedule. These breathers will be aluminum, billet, extremely light weight, red anodized and laser etched.

If you think you may be interested in one of these breathers, please PM me so that we can get an accurate estimation on the production run. I will make every attempt possible to coordinate the sale of these items through existing Cafe Husky sponsors.
 
Thanks Tinken , I think I will just make a breather bottle that takes the blow by fluid out and run the return to the fill cap and fill it up with 1600cc.... You are very helpful :)
 
It bolts onto the exhaust side like my current breather bottle. Ty mentioned making oil fill plugs which already have the hose adapter installed and swivel. Not sure on eta for that.
 
1879cc is the most I have ever seen in a oil cooled Dakar bike with the Kymco engine. What did the engine run like with 2000cc's of oil?
 
Might be interested, depends on cost, and how fiddly it is to install. Oh and how red/shiney it is.....
 
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