• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

430AE Project Has Some Hiccups

fran...k. said:
I think the swingarm for that would be 85-86 linkage. Wr te ae probably my auto had an extra cross piece kind of close to the pivot end. Like they say check the part numbers. The way the brake backing plate keys to the swingarm is often less than ideal and without getting a spare in person you may end up with problems at the other end as you seem rather picky about quality. Halls didn't have the swingarm protector thing a few years ago and I made one from 1999 te 410 and others work it is kind of better in the end. I did a little thread on it here, not sure if anyone even commented. It was also more realistically priced than the last protector I got. I am pretty sure someone or some entity reproduces the manifold parts again not realistically priced in my opinion. If you want to spend the money there are places perhaps Buchanan that drill the holes in blank rims. Once you start taking the spokes off chances are a few won't come undone. Some folks just cut them all and replace.

I seem to recall Michael D has got some first gear clutch springs made up which I would recommend at least trying as I had pretty bad luck with the springs that came with the drum/shoes/springs kits, the gun blue looking ones.

I have put this many times. That bike has a first gear clutch with a spiral groove in the drum and steel or at least magnetic shoes that are smooth. I suppose you can do an oil cooler an run it long after the spiral is worn away. In my experience it sounds a bit different at that point. I suspect it performs different but can't recall that part. Without a source for those kits or a whole improved design with parts availability ..........
Click to expand...

Yeah I am still looking into the swing arms. And yes, I am a little picky about quality. On a scale of 1 to OCD...

The bike already has a brand new clutch drum, pads and springs installed, never been used yet. The springs as I recall were a bright silver color, not blue. As far as the drum goes, I wonder how hard it would be to have new ones CNC milled? I might have to take that off and see if that would be a possibility for replacements down the line.
 
justintendo said:
well, these are not triumphs. you have been given definitive answers on what fits..
if your bike is a 85-88 husqvarna 2 stroke it takes the same filter as troy listed.
the swinger itself is unique to the 85-86 models. 87-88 look similar but have different linkage design.
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That seems to be what I have found and I think the 400 and 430 from those 2 years had the same arms.
 
Michel Dufayard said:
I've put links about clutch springs ,electric oil pump and up-tite pump linked on gear.
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/making-new-430-500-auto-1st-clutch-springs.43716/
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/automatic-springs-breaking.25520/
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/special-parts-desert-race-510.4201/

Making a spring cover is not hard. Need an electric saw with a blade for cutting
steel . And also a 1 mm thick rust steel sheet ( inox). If the spring cover protect from damage
the clutch cover, you need to glue a magnet to pick the little part of spring which travel in the motor.
View attachment 57541
Click to expand...


I forgot about the magnet, thanks for the tip! :applause:

I think I will try a CNC for the spring cover first just because as someone pointed out I am OCD about quality, and I want to make 100% sure its balanced.

I really like the idea of the gear driven pump, but because I want to add signals and other lights to the bike, maybe other stuff, I think I will go with an electric oil pump since I will probably have a battery pack on it anyhow. I saw on one of your threads I think someone used a car fuel pump. Will those handle the temperature of the hot oil? I was looking at Turbo Scavenge pumps with brass/bronze gears to handle high temperatures, but they cost more.

As well for now I don't think I am going to have an oil cooler, just the filter and pump. The filter I made a mount for to work is not off a dodge neon, I think its off Chevs Vortec V6, not too big around but a fairly long filter and should add a fair bit of volume to the system.
 
Back at it again, frame is having plastidip cleaned off and going for powder coat, oil filter and pump system getting set up. Questions though about electrical. I was planning on just using a battery for the electric mini turbo scavenge pump I am using for the oil pump, but I figure it does have a stator, why not see if I can't set that up to help out. I want to build a control board that doesn't run the pump at 100% or doesn't runs it all the time, and in the off time the stator can top the battery off maybe. Not entirely sure, I haven't really looked at it or dug out the multimeter for exact measurements, but I have read the stator is a 70W unit on the bike. I have the stock electrical 1000 miles away (I am terrible at having parts all over the country for this bike) and can't look at it, I can't remember if it has a regulator on it and I am wondering will a regulator handle the voltages the stator puts out because I recall it being fairly high voltage output, better then 50v I believe and I don't want to burn out a regulator.

The goal is to have pretty much everything ready for the end of May, early June this year, so probably in reality next year sometime, so that all I have to do is order the hubs and rims, have Buchanan's Spokes make up spokes for it and slap some Heidenau K60 Scouts on it, and that whole thing with converting to a disc brake on the back, simple stuff. But until that point, I need to get some electrical things figured. I am ordering up new handle bars, grips with all sorts of buttons, horns, lights; all good things. But the original plan was run the lights and signals off the stator, and the oil pump off a battery in one of the side cases I have made up for it, and they would be on two separate circuits. But I figure if I have the pump run off a Pulse Width Controller to run it at maybe 50% duty cycle (I don't think I need to run the pump full out), or have it setup so it runs for 10mins, off for 5, something like that that I can have the stator top off the battery in off times, because I am not entirely sure the stator could run the pump motor full time, so I am being conservative assuming that it can't and if I can have it top off the battery sometimes, I can extend time between actually having to charge the battery or opt for a smaller battery.

If that makes sense, not sure how well I can explain things about the magic pixies running around in the wires, but would like to see what others have to say about it. I am trying to be conservative with my guesstimates as well, I mean, theoretically if its a 70W unit, say we can get 50W at 12v out of a regulator even, that is a bit over 4A, its supposed to be roughly a 2A pump, that leaves power for the lights, it might still be good to have a small 12v battery to absorb excess charge or night driving with the pump, and lights and everything all running, and if I can run the pump off the stator alone would be fantastic, but I rather not bank on that. If anyone has anything to add that would be great otherwise I will wing it like a lot of stuff and hope I continue to get lucky! Haha! I can't wait to show this thing off once its done.
 
Michel Dufayard said:
OK and what about the oil cooler ?
Click to expand...


Didn't plan on using one, it didn't have one on it to start with; the filter, pump and added oil lines increase volume and cool it a bit already, I figure if it worked before with no cooling and less volume it should be fine. That and the pump is made for hot oil, so I see no reason to add an oil cooler onto it.
 
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