• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

2012 Husqvarna TE310 ECU Upgrade...

Mudvayne

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hi guys santa came a little early for me this year glad to get in the mail my TXC310 ecu and injector for the TE today maybe try and get it in tomorrow or the weekend than to the shop to be re-programmed will try and do an accurate review of this upgrade maybe help some guys out in the process. Did anybody do this upgrade and ride the bike as is or will it need re-programming for sure!? Thanks :cheers:
 

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No reprogramming required (or even possible I believe) but you will likely have to reset your TPS and adjust CO levels to get the most out of the new ECU and injector. You might want to take what you would spend at the shop to have it done and apply it to buying the iBeat software for yourself if you plan to keep the bike for a while.
 
The ECU is drop in, although sometimes a TPS reset it required. Changing CO values is not necessary unless you want to customize the map.
 
Say... To those that have done this before... I'm doing this upgrade myself this weekend. I've heard removing the screws on the injector can be a bitch. Any suggestions for tools/techniques to alleviate the stress level?
 
Say... To those that have done this before... I'm doing this upgrade myself this weekend. I've heard removing the screws on the injector can be a bitch. Any suggestions for tools/techniques to alleviate the stress level?


I did mine when I had the rear shock and subframe off for a spring swap. With that done, you can do the injector with the throttle body still on the engine. Squirt the screws with some Kroil and let them soak for about an hour, then take a Philips screwdriver and grind the tip down a little so the shoulders on the bit engage the JIS screw on the fuel rail better. If the screw does not break away with moderate pressure, don't force it...you will only strip out the screw head. At that point, I would take a small chisel and use it to pop the screw loose with a hammer. When I did mine, I had one break loose easily, and the other required the chisel trick. Replace the JIS screws with hex head cap screws when you install the new injector. To do the ECU, you will need to remove the tank. This is an excellent time to swap out the fuel elbow for the aluminum ZipTy replacement.
 

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Should be just plug and play, no resetting required on mine or any others I know of, ride it you'll feel the difference immediately.
 
Screws--Kroil, heat, patience, replacement.
Mechanical throttle stop--adjusted about 1 turn out from full closed or "sticky". Skim thru the long thread, and the short "success" thread in efi/carb section. I adjusted the mechanical stop, but do not know if it made any difference.
Plug and Play--marvelous improvement without further ibeat or aftermarket tuner tweaking. Been too cold to see if second, softer, oem map still works. But I do not think it matters. Marginal improvements are presumably possible with further tweaking, but only the 1% will really notice.
Iridium plug--use iridium version of oem, NGK CR9EIX.

I also use a G2 throttle tube with the softest, slowest response, lobe. If this bike had worked right in the first place, probably would not have tried the G2.
Also, idle set a bit fast, about 2,000 rpm. With engine warm, I want to be able to engage clutch and idle along with no throttle input.
Bike has the power up option.
 
Thanks guys great tips for a bike I'm not real familiar with 'yet' lol That was one question I cant remember the answer too will the blue map switch button still work?
Thanks.
 
I am preparing for the same job on my 2013 "R" which has the different FI system IIRC. I just called Halls cycle and they are back-ordered on the ECU/12port injector so I will have to wait. Let us know how the swap/install goes?

Not to completely thread jack, but does anyone have the 2013 programming computer they can lend me? My closest shop is 160miles and not a short trip.
 
I use a hand held impact driver on "Phillips head" screws. These are not exactly Phillips head screws on the injector.


JIS screws; Link




FR03AN0FOVXPH0R.LARGE.jpg
<img class="photoset-photo" alt="133 jis bits.jpg" src="http://cdn.instructables.com/FR0/3AN0/FOVXPH0R/FR03AN0FOVXPH0R.LARGE.jpg" style="width:395px;" />

F5NETC6FOVXPH0O.LARGE.jpg
<img class="photoset-photo" alt="134 jis vs phillips.jpg" src="http://cdn.instructables.com/F5N/ETC6/FOVXPH0O/F5NETC6FOVXPH0O.LARGE.jpg" style="width:194px;" />

Often improperly referred to as Japanese Phillips. Commonly found in Japanese equipment. JIS looks much like a Phillips screw (and even more similar to Frearson), but is designed not to cam out and will, therefore, be damaged by a Phillips screwdriver if it is too tight. Heads are usually identifiable by a single raised dot to one side of the cross slot. JIS B 1012:1985 screw standard is throughout the Asia market and Japanese imports. The driver has a 57 degree point with a flat tip, parallel wings.


Advantages and Disadvantages of JIS

Most people and companies outside of Japan have absolutely no idea what they are. With the similarity in appearance to the Frearson and the Phillips the screws are often damaged in removing and installing with the wrong tools. JIS tends not to camout like Philips. The JIS driver can be used on Phillips quite easily but not reciprically. Drivers are not easily available in North America, try your local RC Airplane hobby shop. Most RC Helicopters use JIS screws to mount the propeller. JIS-spec cross-head screws are generally marked with a single raised dot or an "X". JIS always fit Phillip fasteners, but because of slight design differences, Phillips drivers may not fit JIS fasteners. (unless the tip is ground down a bit).
 
Thanks guys great tips for a bike I'm not real familiar with 'yet' lol That was one question I cant remember the answer too will the blue map switch button still work?
Thanks.

The blue button will still work. I have the TXC ECU and 12 hole and my blue button works although I cant tell any difference between I an II. With the TE ECU map II was softer and noticeable. Not so with my TXC conversion. YMMV I am good with the way map I is so I ain't conplaining that's for sure.:D
 
I am preparing for the same job on my 2013 "R" which has the different FI system IIRC. I just called Halls cycle and they are back-ordered on the ECU/12port injector so I will have to wait. Let us know how the swap/install goes?

Not to completely thread jack, but does anyone have the 2013 programming computer they can lend me? My closest shop is 160miles and not a short trip.
Curious why you want to change ECU and Injector on a '13 Keihin FI? Stock ECU is flashable and stock injector just works. The '13 negated the needs of the '12. Should save you some $. Just have map flashed by dealer and be done. Any additional setup is free by removing, swapping parts.
 
Micfasto - Nice I have the Snap-On version of that impact driver so shouldn't have a problem, is there any FI pressure lines need to come off for the fuel tank or just hose clamps!? Thanks
 
I am preparing for the same job on my 2013 "R" which has the different FI system IIRC. I just called Halls cycle and they are back-ordered on the ECU/12port injector so I will have to wait. Let us know how the swap/install goes?

Not to completely thread jack, but does anyone have the 2013 programming computer they can lend me? My closest shop is 160miles and not a short trip.

2013R model is done with a reflash. The Mikuni ECU will not work on the Keihin injection used on the "R" models. I don't know if there is any difference in the injectors between the TXC "R" model and the TE "R" model.
 
Thanks - info from users vs. info from sales.

Will look into cost of travel to/from dealer (I moved after purchase and no close dealers w/ appropriate computer). Or see if I can convince one of them to ship me the computer/software to do the flash myself. My fear is also that I may bring the redhead to a dealer, see the yellowhead bikes and leave with a new one....
 
Thanks - info from users vs. info from sales.

Will look into cost of travel to/from dealer (I moved after purchase and no close dealers w/ appropriate computer). Or see if I can convince one of them to ship me the computer/software to do the flash myself. My fear is also that I may bring the redhead to a dealer, see the yellowhead bikes and leave with a new one....

Not likely unless you are a KTM fan. Or KTM with white plastics.
 
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