• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc 2011 WR150 OWNER Keeping Mikuni 38mm Carb

I have the jetting working very well to 8000'. Only problem is mileage is 6-8 mpg worse than the PWK airstriker. I am going to try lowering the float level some more as I still sense that it is overflowing to easily. Just FYI
 
I just did a 36 mile ride at a little less then race speed and got 23mpg. Before adjusting the float I was lucky to get 15mpg. It can make a big difference.
 
I honestly believe the BIG BOG that I was getting with the Mikuni was mainly the float level.
 
Where is everyone setting the TMXX float? On a PWK I would always just set it slightly lower then level and it would be good for woods. But the TMXX holds so little fuel in the bowl I was wondering if I need to be a bit more exact with my settings.
 
I know on my PWK that it will run forever after I cut the fuel off. Even after I have lowered the float 3 times. I need to take an actual measurement.
 
I have already lowered the float level on the TMXX significantly from stock and it is still too high. Burps gas under hard breaking, any steep down hill, or leaned over at all. When I get mine set, I will take a pic and some measurements to the bowl edge for comparison. Now I just need the time to do the testing.

Dwight, maybe between the two of us we can get some generic measurements that others can use as a starting point.
 
Could I test on my work bench? With a pwk I always tried to get it to not dump gas until about 45 degrees and I know from experience where the float needs to be. I was thinking of adjusting the TMX on the bench to where it can lean 45 degrees sicne I may have to make many adjustments. With the small float bowl I don't want to go to low as I am worried about a lean condition when on the main.
 
Work bench testing might work for a starting point for sure. My bike ran great when delivered from Hall's. Then I took it to Maplesville, Alabama enduro. Then when I hit bump, roll off throttle then back on the bike would practically go dead before taking off. Now I think it was more of the float level. I would also suggest richer slide and smaller pilot jet. These things come with Huge pilot jets these days. Not sure what they are trying to accomplish.
 
I didn't take any measurements but I kept adjusting my Mikuni float down until it would pee about the same time the left foot peg touched the ground. I did run into a snag though, you have to be careful with the clip that pulls the needle away from the seat because if it isn't just right it will sometimes delay the drop of the needle and fuel flow will get behind the curve and the bowl will go dry unless you lift on the throttle and let it catch up. (this is from too much slack in the clip on the needle valve... I think)
 
On the TMXX, if you drop too much, the bike runs perfect until you get on a long straight away. Then it runs out of fuel.
 
dartyppyt said:
On the TMXX, if you drop too much, the bike runs perfect until you get on a long straight away. Then it runs out of fuel.
Click to expand...

Maybe that was the deal with mine and I was blaming the clip for causing the needle to hang up. I thought that because it was inconsistent and I figured that maybe sometimes it didn't hang up.
 
Could be, I know on the bikes, when they are new, the float is usually off from them dropping and banging the crates around from shipping.

I had one that I went too far on the float and it caused an airlock in the fuel line.
 
Husky wr 125 09, 7 litre tank, I got approx 65 mins til rserve then another 10 mins, so bought a ims clear, and very impressed with it, fits perfect(justgastanks great service), anyhow put exactly 8 litres in it and got 90 mins over a mix of woods and open going, its in the ball park now, 7 litre tank costs time for refuels in race, don't know why they built an enduro bike with a tank handicap?? they should know better, my only gripe with bike.
 
dartyppyt said:
Could be, I know on the bikes, when they are new, the float is usually off from them dropping and banging the crates around from shipping.

I had one that I went too far on the float and it caused an airlock in the fuel line.
Click to expand...

I find that hard to believe. 'dropping and banging around in crates' has to be considerably less force than crashing bikes, throwing them down hillsides etc etc. The force required to bend the tab is quite considerable - probably more likely poor setting at the factory.
 
Hey guys my 08 CR144 (Walt) runs awesome but you sure make me want to give the RM needle a try. So... help me out by not making me read through pages and pages to find what the needle number is please. My bike has the stock carb and needle at this time, thanks.
 
john01, i've been testing the following RM needles with my OEM '09 144, others can chime in with more direction but:

6CHY 16-62 (seems to be most recommended starting point)
6CHY 17-62 (half clip leaner)

on float level, mine was too high as well, pissed gas everywhere just taking it off the stand. i lowered it a tad but i'm curious to hear if you guys come up with a measurement that's easy to mimic. i found an old post that had it 1 - 2mm below the bowl edge so that's what i'm running right now, definitely helped but may not be optimal yet.

just to add context, my jetting is as follows for ~300 - 1000ft ASL: 470M, 32.5P, 17-62 3rd, 5.0 slide, AS 1.5 TO (PowerNow plate). thing tractors awesome, rips up top but i still have a slight 'bog' when i shift on the pipe in open areas. spooges like mad too.
 
Thank you very much for the info I appreciate it. I wonder though...I 'm running a 390 main now so did the RM needle make that much difference or do we have different carbs? Mines the stock carb that came on the 08 CR125.
 
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