• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

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2011 te 310 starting problem when hot

husky bom

husky bom

Husqvarna
A Class
hi guys...just after a bit of info on a starting problem with a 2011 te 310
it starts on the starter motor great when cold but when hot will not start on the starter motor but will start first kick on the kick starter when hot.........so we replaced the starter with a new ome husky starter and still have the same problem what could this be????? .....note this problem has only just started has 10hrs on the bike

has any one come across the same problem and what did you do

thanks
H.B
 
Welcome to the club, unfortunately. I've been trying to figure out my problem for about 6 months. Here are some threads to read through:

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/2010-te250-starter-issues-any-one-else.11937/
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/2011-te310-starting-problem.17195/
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/problems-with-2010-te250.15230/

Definitely let us know if you discover anything. Halls suggested it might have to do with the exhaust valve specs (mine were fine) or the auto decompresser. I'm not sure how to determine if that's working or not. Maybe somebody will chime in.
 
Mine wasnt doing this at all till I got it really really hot on the weekend and it did it
cry.gif
. Turned over a bit but not enough and starts easy with a kick
Was ok again once it was a bit cooler - it wasnt doing much for the Husky rep with fellow riders thats for sure.
 
FWIW, I made a short little video showing my starting problems. It starts off relatively easily the first attempt (when cold) but gets harder and harder with consecutive tries. The bike had a fully charged brand new battery. Also, the idle is turned up a bit higher than normal at the moment.


I'd be curious if this is the same thing happening to others with starting problems.
 
Sounds like the starter is struggling to turn engine over fast enough. To much compression? Fault in starter gears (too tight)? Try and see if she turns over faster with plug out. I think I remember somebody mentioning that heat made the starter gears go tight, or something to that affect...

On my 2010 TE250. Both the Exhaust Camshaft (containing the auto de-compressor) and the starter ring and worm were replaced by the dealer here in the UK. The battery was also replaced with a "YUSA". They all had recalls on them...

They were replaced before I had any issues. Hope this helps.
 
Has anyone had this problem on a 2008 tc? Mine started fine until a few weeks ago. It still starts first kick when it is cold but once it warms up it is next to impossible. Lots of kick-back and sounds like what is happening here so the auto de-compression comes to mind. The mechanic at my local dealer is away so I thought I would post here in hopes of help before the weekend. How can I tell if the auto de-compressor is working right and how do I fix it?
 
husky bom said:
hi guys...just after a bit of info on a starting problem with a 2011 te 310
it starts on the starter motor great when cold but when hot will not start on the starter motor but will start first kick on the kick starter when hot.........so we replaced the starter with a new ome husky starter and still have the same problem what could this be????? .....note this problem has only just started has 10hrs on the bike

has any one come across the same problem and what did you do

thanks
H.B
Click to expand...
Hi, I am in Spain and I just bought a 2012 TE 310. I am having the issue with the starter motor, actually I have already replaced two of them under warranty and the bike still doing the same damn thing. It only has 400 km and after the first 150 km it has been almost impossible to start it with the electric starter. It usually starts at the first kick, but this is very annoying because I bought the bike for the electric start. The bike is now at the local dealer saharamotor.com in Alicante while they try to figure out. if anyone has a solution, I would appreciate it.
 
Hi, bit of guess work here have you tried removing all the battery terminals and checking them for tightness or corrosion also as someone suggested the battery might not be producing a good enough out put try using a jump start from a larger 12 volt car battery.
 
I'm here researching the TE310 because I was thinking about buying one. This was dissapointing to find out...
 
I wouldn't worry too much about it.

My '11 te310 has been working fine. :excuseme:

The problem seems to be limited to a few people and is likely due to valve adjustment from what I can see. It's clearly not the battery if it starts it when cold - that takes more juice than starting an engine that's warmed up.
 
I had my 2011 TE 310 in to the dealer to replace the temp sensor (on warranty)
and also had the valves checked (were on spec).
This past weekend ride the bike would start ok when cold, would usually not start with the starter when hot.
One quick dab of the kickstart & it started easily, 1st kick every time.
So it does not seem to be a valve adjustment issue.
Ambient temps were on the cool side; around 10 C.
The battery is on a Battery-Tender when the bike sits more than a couple days.
This didn't happen before this past weekend... the bike has now 35 hours on it.

This is a fantastic bike with a few gremlins.
We'll sort em out.
 
Anyone checked the solenoid???

STARTING SYSTEM INSPECTION
Starter motor inspection (TE - TXCi)
Remove the starter motor (1) as described in the relevant paragraph.
Whenever a starter motor fault is detected, check the starter motor as follows:
- connect a meter across ground and starter motor contact.
- Check for continuity between the positive pole and motor ground. If no continuity
is found, replace the starter motor. On assembly, apply a small amount of
LOCTITE 243 to the starter motor retaining screws.
Starter motor
Rated voltage: 12V
Current draw: 350 W
No-load test
Voltage: 11.2 V
Current: 30 A
Speed: 12,000 rpm
Cranking test
Voltage: 10 V
Current: 80 A
Torque: 3.5 Nm - 0.35 Kgm - 2.5 ft/lb
Starter motor test curves (TE - TXCi)
1 - Output power (W)
2- Torque (TQ)
3- RPM (N: rpm. x 1000)
4 - Light voltage (V)
5 - Charging current (A)
Solenoid starter inspection (TE - TXCi)
Disconnect the cables at the battery negative terminal to avoid possible short
circuits during disassembly. Disconnect the starter relay connector (A).
Disconnect the starter motor and battery positive cable wires at relay end. Apply
12 Volts to relay terminals (1) and (2) and check for continuity between terminals
B-M. Do not feed battery voltage to the relay longer than 5 seconds or the
relay might overheat, leading to winding damage. Use a multimeter to establish
whether the winding is open circuit or resistance exists. A winding in good condition
will give the following resistance readings.
Meter scale setting: Ohm
Starter relay resistance. Standard: 3-6 .
 
fasteer said:
This past weekend ride the bike would start ok when cold, would usually not start with the starter when hot.
Click to expand...

I should clarify: the bike usually would not turn over on the starter, or would turn a tiny bit (to TDC ?), then stop.
 
It does say that (pg 19), but I think a bit is lost in translation- they must mean the starter lever should not be used when the engine is warm.

At least I hope that's what they mean..
 
Aaron8 said:
It does say that (pg 19), but I think a bit is lost in translation- they must mean the starter lever should not be used when the engine is warm.

At least I hope that's what they mean..
Click to expand...

You are correct, they are referring to the "cold start lever" on the lt side of the handlebars. That one almost got me too.

Seems to me something begins to bind when it expands from the engine heat if the batteries maintain good charge when warmed up and valves are in spec. Is there a way to check the gear teeth clearance between the starter drive and the engine? Maybe with the measurement tape used to check automotive crank, rod and cam bearings? Otherwise use the material used in automotive rear differentials to check gear lash? That way you guys could see exactly where on the gears the meshing is occurring- like if it's too deep into/between the teeth? (I seem to be at a loss for these automotive terms tonight)

My 11 TE 250 has no issues when hot. Starts quite a bit better than my 08 TE 450 hot of cold.
 
I have 1500 km on my 310 I checked my valves on the wekend and they were fine so all good there. I fall off quite often and have not had any issue with starting even when the engine has been very hot like in deep sandy creek beds. Have you used an multi meter and checked the voltage drop on the battery cold and hot some batteries have been know to do strange things due to the bashing they get in these bikes. Also noticed you have the Rekluse clutch did it start ok and then change after this was fitted? If you are not sure on test voltage find a good auto electricain they should be able to help out.
 
knobbytired said:
Jw-

Check your valves. If they're tight, it'll make it hard to start when hot. That's generally an early symptom..........
Click to expand...

Not the problem...starter seizes and the bike starts first kick when hot....they all do that...my 2010 Te250 did too.

Dealer replaced starter but it still does in in hot weather...not in cold weather though.

it's either the Chinese starter or the worm gear drive.
 
This is not good.... I believe there will be a TE250 or TE310 ultralight motor at the north west gathering which will be in about a week, I will look for this.
 
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