2011 511 trouble shifting

[shilo020]

This is Mobil1 0x40 AUTO oil? Is that ok for my 2010 TE310 Athena engine too?

 

[Tinken]

It is automotive oil, yes, it will not harm a wet clutch, no.

According to Husqvarna, you should be using Castrol Power 1 Racing 4T 10w50 which is 17.19 mm2/s (17.19 cSt) at 100°C, which makes Mobil 1 0w40 14.3 cSt @ 100°C out of specification.

I would suggest using Torco 10w40 which is 16.1 cSt @ 100°C or Mobil1 15w50 which is 18 cSt @ 100°C.

http://www.torcousa.com/technology/T-4SR.pdf
http://www.torcousa.com/technology/T-4MXR.pdf
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_15W-50.aspx#

 

[Nick Noodles]

My Husky dealer recommends maxima extra 15w50 for my 2014 te511 wondering what your thoughts are on this oil Tinken?.
Cheers
Nick

 

[Dangermouse449]

My Husky dealer recommends maxima extra 15w50 for my 2014 te511 wondering what your thoughts are on this oil Tinken?.
Cheers
Nick

Well researched info right there from Tinken.

I also run light oil in my engine. (Aus market Castrol Power 1- http://www.castrol.com/en_au/australia/products/motorcycle-and-scooters/engine-oils/power1.html)

Thick oil in any engine may produce great oil pressure readings, but that doesn't mean you have good oil FLOW.
Nearly all modern engines (car bike, 4wd now use lighter oils - The diesel ute that tows my bike runs 5w30 standard, it has to cope with over 400Nm of torque)

In Aus our Castrol Power 1 Racing is 5w40 fully synthetic, it is expensive, but no where near as expensive as motor repairs.
Buy the best oil you can afford & change it often (mine is every 5 hrs).

Not sure if we get Torco here, Mobil 1 is definitely available.

It is automotive oil, yes, it will not harm a wet clutch, no.​

​

According to Husqvarna, you should be using Castrol Power 1 Racing 4T 10w50 which is 17.19 mm2/s (17.19 cSt) at 100°C, which makes Mobil 1 0w40 14.3 cSt @ 100°C out of specification.​

​

I would suggest using Torco 10w40 which is 16.1 cSt @ 100°C or Mobil1 15w50 which is 18 cSt @ 100°C.​

​

http://www.torcousa.com/technology/T-4SR.pdf​

http://www.torcousa.com/technology/T-4MXR.pdf​

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_15W-50.aspx#​

 

[Bryce]

I was having all these problems, now they are solved. It is all explained in the below thread. Now I can find neutral whenever I need it. Using Rotella T6 5-40 and a Warp9 clutch lever (the stock clutch lever would not adjust far enough out to fix the issue).

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/te...gh-and-reset-trip-meter-its-the-clutch.41456/

"So I have been having issues with the clutch on my 511 since the bike was new. "All of my dirtbikes try to spin the rear wheel with the clutch pulled, it's normal" is what I have heard from everyone I talk to about it. Bullshit. I have been having the issue where I pull up to a stoplight or a spot on a trail and fiddle around trying to find neutral while feathering the clutch to see if I have actually found it (which I never have) until the bike dies. I immediately try to restart and it just coughs, resets the trip meter and will barely even turn over if at all. I then put it in neutral and it starts right up. It did all this with the regular battery and the Earthx I recently purchased, no difference at all. I had my clutch lever adjusted pretty far out already and it was pulling just fine, but the other day I decided to take it all the way. I adjusted it all the way out to where it now rests with some pressure against my tusk handguard. FIXED, so far. It is adjusted out to the frickin moon now and the clutch pull is ridiculous, but it has fixed all of the stalling issues and I can find neutral whether stopped or going. I think when it died and I was trying to start it in gear before it was partially trying to turn over the transmission/rear wheel because the clutch was not fully engaged. This would overload the system and cause the trip meter to reset and not start the bike. It's really weird, because now I can pull the clutch half way in (all the way in before I adjusted it all the way out) for normal shifting, and it is more than enough to work. When I am stopped is another story. If I only pull it halfway, the rear wheel still wants to go a little bit like it did before. When I pull it all the way in it fully disengages and I get no more resistance, but it is a really long pull from halfway. I hope this helps some of you that have been having this issue. Like I said, it totally changes the feel of the clutch, but neutral is cake to find anytime and no more stalling, period."

 

[Nick Noodles]

Thanks Danger Mouse oil price isn't the issue for me it's just that I keep reading that light oils are the go and then I get recommended 15w50 from the dealer.

 

[Dangermouse449]

Thanks Danger Mouse oil price isn't the issue for me it's just that I keep reading that light oils are the go and then I get recommended 15w50 from the dealer.

Most dealers do not have an agenda, or are bad, but frequently they do get a discount from xyz oil company to run their product in the shop, that may be a contributor.

 

[Tinken]

My Husky dealer recommends maxima extra 15w50 for my 2014 te511 wondering what your thoughts are on this oil Tinken?.
Cheers
Nick

That's way too heavy for the 449. BMW designed that engine around 5W40 and Husqvarna recommends 10W40.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/what-kind-of-oil-should-i-use-and-how-much.31911/#post-311061